Adding a Tranny Cooler

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
07 Trail Blazer with I-6 4.2 engine

Adding a cooler where I tow a 3000lb bass boat. I went to Autozone and picked up a Torqflo cooler rated medium. Going thru the instructions I noticed the cooler is mounted directly onto the radiator with zip ties that go thru both the cooler and radiator. Is this something new? I always thought you needed approx. 1 inch between the two for air flow? Anyone use this method or should I run from it!

Thanks
 

{tpc}

Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
They do that so they can sell you a "kit" that requires "no drilling". Ths same thing came with the derali (I think thats what is was) cooler I put on my wifes envoy. But they also sold a kit which amounts to some self threading bolts and sheet metal with holes in it that you can buy to "mount" it where you want.

For me it seemed a bad idea to put things through the radiator fins that could vibrate and eventually cause a failure. So I drilled a couple holes, used the sheetmetal and bolts and mounted it in front of the radiator.
 

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
Thanks for the quick response. I feel the same way you do. I'm leaning towards returning this cooler and getting something different.

I noticed what looks to be a small narrow cooler that runs along the bottom of the radiator. It's like 3 inches tall and runs the entire length. What is that for? Power steering?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
Yes, it is the power steering cooler.

Here's a post with pic of an install on an Envoy. TB's would be the same.

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/confirming-some-towing-questions.12614/post-386964

On my 9-7x, there was no place like that for me to install it so I mounted it on the A/C condenser using zip ties. It's not the best but better than none.

Edit: Looked at the Torqflo and those "tube and fin" type coolers are not the best and don't have any mounting points. A plate type, like in the pic, are a lot better, as well as those that look like mini-radiators, like these.
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Did the kit come with rubber standoffs to go between the cooler and the radiator?
 

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
Thanks Mooseman...I saw a you tube video produced by e-trailer showing the cooler mounted in the top left corner. Is that ok or should I mount it somewhere else.
 

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
It did not come with standoffs. It came with 4 rubber squares for the back of the zip ties so there's no damages to the cooling fins.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
I edited my original post but took so long, you missed it:

Looked at that video, seems like a lot of work removing the bumper cover for nothing and he didn't secure/mount the bottom part of the cooler. I think the way shown in the pic I linked is the better way and doesn't require bumper removal. And flaring is a "nice to do" if you have the tool. I just put a second clamp on the cut lines.
 

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
What did you remove just the grill? What type of cooler is that? Make / model? I only need a medium size for the weight I'm towing. That one looks large for my needs?

and lastly...any trick on getting at those bottom two clips that hold the grill in place :smile:

Thanks again Moose
 

RedRocketZ28

Member
May 16, 2014
114
You can never have too big of a cooler. I would get the biggest one you can fit in the space you are trying to put it.
 
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DocBrown

Member
Dec 8, 2011
501
I have used that type on a couple of vehicles. It's not "ideal" but it works just fine.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
Yeah, just the grill you have to pull off. Sometimes they rust in place and you just have to pull on them.

I'd still go with the biggest that can fit. The cooler you keep the tranny, the longer it will last.

heatchrt.jpg


And like their site says, the effects are cumulative so the cooler you run it, the happier it will be in the long run. I put coolers on all my vehicles, even the grocery getters.
 

Trailblazer186

Original poster
Member
Aug 3, 2015
18
I just installed the cooler. Pretty easy job. It took me maybe 45 min.

I haven't connected my 3/8 hose to the tranny line yet. mother nature came down hard on me so I needed to stop. I'm reading that some people flare the ends of the tranny line, some don't. What are your thoughts on this? Flare or don't flare?
 

07Denali

Member
Feb 28, 2013
71
When I did mine I just unhooked the one line and installed a adapter pipe that was a few inches long made with a barb on the end for the hose and clamp setup. then the other end went over the factory line that was now loose and has a bit of a flare to it. no leaks in over a few thousand kms.
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
Trailblazer186 said:
What did you remove just the grill? What type of cooler is that? Make / model? I only need a medium size for the weight I'm towing. That one looks large for my needs?

and lastly...any trick on getting at those bottom two clips that hold the grill in place :smile:

Thanks again Moose
That is my cooler and it is a Tru-Cool 4589. it is rated for around 24000 lbs total weight and everyone is correct you can't go to big. Some folks seem to think that you will get condensation if the temp doesn't get high enough but that pic is at least 5 years old. We regularly get -25 to -30 C here in the winter and so far so good. Thanks Moose for posting that again it is always nice to see that pic show up again. I am not a fan of hose clamps but they do work you just need to crawl under and tighten them up now and then. I use screw on fittings with compression sleeves to connect to the tranny lines, these cost a little and take longer but no leaks. Good luck with the cooler install. Like some of the others i too would not drive the vehicle without a cooler installed, towing or not.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
My only bad luck using clamps on the pipe directly was one morning when it was -30C, the pressure of the thickened fluid pushed the hose off the pipe. Wound up with an impromptu mid-winter fluid change in the middle of nowhere. So yes, double clamp and check once a year.

I always refer back to that pic. That's what I used on my TB way back when :smile:
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
I installed a transmission cooler six or nine months ago. In the last week, the transmission has been slipping a little. The fluid reads right where it should on the dipstick.

Question: Should I add a little more fluid because the cooler is above the tranny pan and it's empty when the engine is off and I'm checking the fluid?
 

BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
The position of the auxiliary cooler has no bearing on the full level of the transmission. You may just need to replace the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators, and forward piston. Also the corvette servo upgrade is highly recommended. How many miles? Are you running dex6 trans fluid?
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
190k, and I am running Dex6. I've noticed that it slips pretty consistently while cornering at speed. More slippage the more lateral G's.

Can you give me some links on those repairs? Corvette servos? Sounds fast. :2thumbsup:

Also, is there a minimum temperature that the transmission fluid should be above?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
190k, and I am running Dex6. I've noticed that it slips pretty consistently while cornering at speed. More slippage the more lateral G's.

Can you give me some links on those repairs? Corvette servos? Sounds fast. :2thumbsup:

Also, is there a minimum temperature that the transmission fluid should be above?

Sorry I missed this the other day I have been very busy.

Here is the corvette servo.

Here is the accumulator kit w/forward piston.

There really is no minimum temperature for the transmission, it is good for it to be above 100*F if you go wide open throttle, and it is also not bad every now and then for it to get in the upper 100's to burn off moisture in the fluid. But that will happen at times, if you ever tow anything heavy or run it hard. My motto for the trans is "the cooler the better".

The only other thing you should know is that the 3-4 accumulator requires removing the valve body from the transmission, it is not hard to do but I prefer a new gasket for it although some re-use them. Use Vaseline to hold the check balls in the valve body.


4L60EValveBodyLowerBallsLg.jpg
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
You are awesome, BT. Are those two items all I need? What is the forward piston that you mentioned?

Can I do it all without dropping the transmission?
 
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BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
Here is the picture from the ebay ad, this is the pinless kit and the one in the middle is the forward piston. yes everything can be done with the transmission in the vehicle. The more space you have the better, like getting the whole truck up on 4 jack stands. It is all relatively simple to do especially if you remove the valve body. Def do the forward piston while it is out, it is a little difficult to do in the truck. Don't drop or scratch the surface of the valve body.





s-l1600.jpg
 
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jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Ah. I didn't see him replace a third piston in the video you linked. Will the three different pistons only fit into their proper spots? And are those "steel balls" replacement check valves, or are they somehow interface with the pistons?

Sorry for the noob questions. I've done most other things in the TB, but I've never cracked open the valve body.
 
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BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
One of the balls is to stake into the hole that the pin is removed from, this is an upgrade kit to also remove the pins. and the remaining are replacement chack balls that you probably do not really need to replace. One ball in the kit is ever so slightly bigger than the rest and it is for the forward piston pin hole. The 1-2 and 3-4 pistons are the same parts, and the forward piston is apporx 30% smaller.

Yes they will only fit in their spots.

There are many videos on youtube on the subject of building the valve body, and also installing shift kits. I would recommend watching several and getting familiar with the procedure before you get ready to do it.

Also don't forget you are going to need a new deep pan filter and 5 quarts of DEX6 fluid. You might even consider installing a transmission cooler, the cooler it runs the longer it runs. :tiphat:
 

Harpo

Member
Dec 4, 2011
411
Sweden
Question: Should I add a little more fluid because the cooler is above the tranny pan and it's empty when the engine is off and I'm checking the fluid?


Sorry if I got it wrong?, but did you check the fluid with the engine off?.
That's not the right way to do it.
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
It's with more than a little embarrassment that I post this. With all the repairs I've done on this truck, how could I not know how to check my transmission fluid?

Anywho, it was way low. Like off the dipstick low. More than a quart. I filled it up, and the slip is gone. So what damage could I have done? I've been monitoring transmission temps via Torque, and I've never seen it get it get over 165F. But now that it's full, it's hanging out around 140F.

Thoughts...except about me being a dunce? I got that.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
If it was slipping, could have burned the clutches a bit. How does the fluid look? Pink? Brownish? Burnt?
 
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Harpo

Member
Dec 4, 2011
411
Sweden
I'll guess you will have to wait and find out, hopefully nothing.
I guess it would make the fluid run a little hotter because of the low level, but if you just recently noticed the slipping hopefully nothing.
I had a issue with a hose to my extra cooler came lose and the fluid leaked out to the point that I had nothing left.

Knock on wood, no damage yet, and that was over two years ago.
 

6716

Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
Anybody install the Derale 8000 cooler? I ordered it, and then I watched the video where the guy recommends buying an additional length of the hose. So now I can either order that separately or make it work with the 4-foot length that came.

I also got the metal straps to hang it with the straps and screws, but it comes with those zip-ties and it kinda looks like I could hang it low and centered with the zip-ties.

Anybody manage to make it work hanging it from that cross piece and using the 4-foot section that comes in the box?

Maybe I'll just pull the grill and see how it might fit.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,685
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Which size did you get? While I didn't get a Derale, the Tru-Cool I originally got (on the left), and the Hayden I replaced it with earlier this year is the equivalent to the 18 row Derale from that line. I bent some aluminum strips (easier than the steel straps) painted them and hung it from the header panel with the screws, and supported the bottom with another strap going to the bumper cover bolt.

20220417_174003.jpg
 

6716

Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
The one I got is 11 x 8-3/4. https://www.etrailer.com/Transmission_Coolers/Derale/D13503.html

I'm sure glad the grill goes back on, because I don't think mine is going to look as nice as yours.

Coming off the bumper cover fastener is a good idea, I think I will use that as well.

They sure think a lot of those zip-tie fasteners in the marketing video, and I suppose they probably work except I would have to get the fan shroud out of the way to use them.

I'm tempted to get the extra line so I can have the line installed on the cooler before I fasten it. With just the one section at 4 feet I feel like I don't know how to cut it ahead of time.

Except the grill is off, and a couple of the fasteners snapped, it should go back on fine but I kind of don't want to put the grill back on until I am done to minimize any more damage, and I kind of don't want to drive around much with the grill off, so I would be stuck until the line appears unless I can source it locally. So in that scenario it's good that I work from home and live above the grocery store.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,685
Tampa Bay Area, FL
So yours is a little longer, mine is 9" tall, so some of yours will be behind the bumper bar, not that big of a deal. I bought extra hose, and mounted it with the ports up, so air didn't get trapped. The Tru-Cool had a built in thermal bypass, and I wasn't sure if it would allow air to purge being upside down.

I didn't want to mess with the fan and the shroud, so the zip tie mounts weren't even a thought. Many of my center clips are busted. The one on the back of the bowtie has been gone for years. I think I have the outside clips on the crossbar, and then the top and bottom rows, so it still holds well. I've pulled that grille off hundreds of times (thank you projector retrofit projects) so it pulls off easily enough now, but the remaining clips hold it firm.
 
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