Ac heater line leaking

[Hawaiianbasshead]

So I have some leak spraying out I assumed it was freon? Looked orange colored? Would this cause overheating issues? I was also on a hill with ac on and I'm fairly sure my brakes are sticking somewhat (fresh calipers so maybe soft lines?) Anyway here's some leak

5.3 envoy xl ac/heater line leaks

youtube.com

Having so many issues I don't even know if I should just join a fb page dedicated to 5.3 envoy xl issues 🤦‍♂️ *facepalm* any help welcome I'm daily running into problems on this beater and it only has 106,000 miles just really poor maintenance I guess and it was sitting in a rainy area for almost a year probably before I got it 2 weeks ago. My buddy made a good point there was probably a reason they parked it...

 

[Mooseman]

Orange is likely coolant. From that video, looks like a seal at that connector. If it gets low enough, it will cause overheating.

Any vehicle that was neglected can be rehabed back to health. The amount of time and money depends on much it's been neglected. Do a full assessment before making a decision.

FB? Really? The knowledge is here, it's well organized (check out the FAQ's in my signature) and you won't get trolls.

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

I'm just stressed. The shit seems to keep getting deeper the deeper I dig... only good news today so far is I pulled the quarter out of my passenger seat rail that wasn't allowing it to go back. Even that wad a pita as the seat was way forward so getting to the bolt by tranny hump wasn't easy. Took a break from the coolant stuff and tried to mess with the brakes again. Pulled the master cylinder to check if the cylinder goes back after going in. Seemed ok so I guess it's rubber lines maybe but pedal gets stiff when brakes lock so decided to check brake booster. The o ring around master cylinder to booster wasn't there. And there's a piece of booster that pushes cylinder maybe that was off and inside the booster and I can't seem to get it out it's like shaking a penny from a piggy bank almost

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Also I was topping the coolant off everytime I used it I check fluids and make sure it's decent. That's how I found the power steering as the main leak culprit

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Got the thick washer thing out but the rubber/plastic is still in there somewhere

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Got the other piece out than put them back together and re-installed booster in along with the master cylinder, gonna try to get some soft lines than bleed brakes again and save original coolant stuff for another day I think

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Got my new brake booster and soft lines today. Will possibly get to it tommorrow or thursday. I looked today not stressed and freaking out and the line leaking at the T has metal on the ends at the 90* quick connect and straight at the firewall side... I'm guessing I need to change that line as I didn't see a hose clamp to remove the quick connection from the metal piece on the hose...? 🤷‍♂️

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Do these heater hose quick connects have o rings? It does look like flattened o rings in the hose end but I'm not sure how to reach the firewall side disconnect so thinking of trying to pull and replace o rings maybe. Probably need to change all the quick connect fittings and hoses but it seems like a pita and I'd prefer oem not parts store stuff and no idea where to order oem online if I do I'll probably order all new lines and water pump maybe rock auto...

 

[Mooseman]

Once you pull the disconnect from the heater core at the firewall, there is no other seal. IIRC, there are one or two seals inside hose end connector. The plastic retaining clip may stay on the heater core nipple.

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

I'm debating just using a U bend heater bypass... I think my lines have slow leaks at the waterpump end too... so really replacing all lines seems inevitable 😩 they're all original I wager and all quick connects are probably gonna leak eventually... the quick connects at the T are discolored kinda yellowish so I'm thinking those are on their way too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QNJ9SQ/?tag=gmtnation-20 that's the quickest thing I can think of to temp fix at least. 🤦‍♂️

 

[Mooseman]

That question has never been brought up before. I'm thinking to use a couple of block offs at the two nipples on the engine or replace the nipples with block offs. That would eliminate the whole heating system. I don't know the size off hand but something like these:

Amazon.com

I have no idea of the thread or size of the nipples themselves.

I guess you don't ever need heat in Hawaii?

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

I could use heat on occasion but if it helps it run good and possibly eliminates a possible problem/step in trouble shooting it's worth it til I can get the lines fixed better. Finally got plates on it yesterday 😎 so I'm fine diving deeper so ordered the heater bypass hose and oil pickup o ring for next weeks parts. Will try to grab the fan tommorrow at temp to see if maybe that's also part of the temp as I'm sure the sticking brakes didn't help.. will post updates, been working alot so haven't been doing much wrenching since the brakes and pulling the hose to debate attempting o ring change

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Changed fan clutch as I stopped it with my slipper (flip flop) at 210* maybe 211ish was a hair past 210. And the O'Reilly one sits maybe 3/4" closer to motor.. gotta be better than the one I could stop while hot hopefully... and what size bolts go into the balancer/hub thing for my fan clutch tool to hold? I used a couple long bolts to loosen it but can't get them in and want to tighten it pretty good... tia for any help

 

[Mooseman]

You mean the harmonic balancer? You shouldn't need to touch that. If you mean the bolts that hold the fan clutch to fan or the ones for the water pump pulley, I don't know (M8?). Why can't you reuse the old bolts? If it's to hold them so you could tighten the fan clutch to the water pump, don't worry about it. I just hand screw it on and the rotational force will tighten it naturally.

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Yes, the water pump pulley to tighten the fan clutch. Sorry too stressed didn't even realize what it was until I went back out and looked 🤦‍♂️ but it's done, just need to top coolant and clean garage floor from overspill I couldn't get with old shirts. Glad I live on an active volcanoe so it's not as bad as old earth with just dirt it's lava and lava rock thousands of feet deep still gonna try to clean it best as I can and return these wrenches to O'Reilly...

Any thoughts on the fan being 3/4" closer to motor or whatever that is?

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Thank you for the replies also! Gonna go put intake back on and battery cable since I know it'll be fine now 🤙

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Old shot of how hot I got it one time while the brakes were sticking and the old fan clutch 😳 5 weeks ago May 7th during beginning of ts lol. Hopefully I don't see that again. Gonna try to do oil change/pickup O ring and tranny fluid soon. Still not driving it much, mainly just test drives to ts before or after changing parts... I wanna say this evening after fan clutch I was still getting to a line past 210* I'll watch it more carefully next hard day drive with the ac may even be tommorrow

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Wrong pic... this is highest temp I got a pic of 🤦‍♂️

 

[Mooseman]

Gonna try to do oil change/pickup O ring

Why are you replacing the pickup O ring? Any oil pressure problems? You do realize that you have to drop the oil pan to replace it. Not an easy job. If you are relying on the pressure gauge in the cluster, it's fake.

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

The lifter clicking that goes away with rpm as the gauge gets 1/4 or half way... it starts at 0 but the lifters sounds like that 0 is pretty accurate lol

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Or at least accurate of somewhat low pressure. Gauge light comes on and I do realize pressure sensor also and filter but because mine has noise not just bad readings is why I figured it was actually low. I put it in neutral and rev to 1k+ when driving it around and coming to stops

 

[Mooseman]

It's only accurate at 0 pressure. There is no sensor, just an on/off switch. Readings are totally fake. Basically just an idiot light.

Trailblazer oil pressure gauge doesn't tell you the oil pressure (4.2L engines) (YouTube)

You should confirm an actual pressure issue before tearing into it. Trust me, it's a of a job! A ticking lifter is an issue with a lifter. Maybe try doing an oil flush.

yet another lovely 4.2l valve tick

I know there are like 100 of these on here but I figured mine is a little different and I love troubleshooting so here is my issue. the description of my problem: The past few weeks my 4.2 has been making the typical complaint of sounding like a diesel engine when at idle all the way up to...

gmtnation.com

If you're really contemplating diving into this, I would suggest you start a new thread for the ticking lifter issue.

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Gotcha, my 5.3 dod is the one ticking not the 4.2, that one I'm supposed to drop for a motor change in a couple/few hrs. Sorry on my cluster and side tracking but oil pressure on the 4.2 even runnin on 5 cylinders has been high over half since I got it 3 or 4yrs ago but same thing applies I'm sure. Thanks again for sharing more knowledge 🤙

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Did the heater block off after getting a new heater t last week and breaking that heater hose that goes to firewall 🤦‍♂️will get replacement hose eventually but haven't gotten hot since putting the t and caps in a week ago

 

[Hawaiianbasshead]

Hose I broke... 🙃