I think a baring is going out on my AC compressor. I hear a growling / whining like sound when the compressor kicks on, and I can feel it putting a strain on the engine and reducing its power. If I turn the AC off the sound goes away. It is cooling fine though. The 04 XUV has 208K on it, so I figure it is going bad. Looking at https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-compressor they can range in price from $176 to $518 for it. Any brand to avoid or get? Probably going to pay a local shop to put it on though, so what would be a fair price?
AC compressor sound
- Thread starter emedlin
- Start date
Maverick6587
Member
I was going to suggest that you swap out the a/c clutch but, I do not see a clutch replacement kit anywhere. I don't see one for the bearing either. I'm sure you could just size the bearing and replace it, but I do not see any videos for that process either.
If I'm right and there is not a clutch replacement for this system, then you're going to need an refrigerant recovery and recharging system, or just the vacuum from Harbor Freight and new refrigerant from a local parts store. You're going to need the a/c manifold gauge set from HF as well. The instructions are in Mooseman's service manuals though, in HVAC1.
Just an idea, but I would wait for someone who's had a little more experience with the HVAC system. I've only had to replace to vent door actuator motors so far.
If I'm right and there is not a clutch replacement for this system, then you're going to need an refrigerant recovery and recharging system, or just the vacuum from Harbor Freight and new refrigerant from a local parts store. You're going to need the a/c manifold gauge set from HF as well. The instructions are in Mooseman's service manuals though, in HVAC1.
Just an idea, but I would wait for someone who's had a little more experience with the HVAC system. I've only had to replace to vent door actuator motors so far.
These GMTN On Topic links may prove useful:
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/ac-clutch-replacement.7652/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/ac-compressor-clutch-not-engaging.17494/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/air-conditioner-clutch-shim-removal.17403/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-repair-your-air-conditioning.14558/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/ac-clutch-replacement.7652/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/ac-compressor-clutch-not-engaging.17494/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/air-conditioner-clutch-shim-removal.17403/
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-repair-your-air-conditioning.14558/
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Mooseman
Moderator
There are only Two Kinds of A/C Compressors worthy for use in this R&R... ACDelco and Delphi... and NOTHING Else. You don't mention the Year of your Vehicle in your Profile... but armed with that data... Start with checking the refined information available on RockAuto and-or... even Amazon ...and then Choose Wisely.
After the repair... the initial Sticker Shock will soon fade away after you have to pull up your shirt collar against the Blast of Ice Cold Air coming out of your Vents. This... and after you have the chance to read the Horror Stories about Buyers cutting corners and taking the Cheap Way Out ...and then having to get the "New" A/C Compressor replaced all over again after only 5-8 Weeks.
After the repair... the initial Sticker Shock will soon fade away after you have to pull up your shirt collar against the Blast of Ice Cold Air coming out of your Vents. This... and after you have the chance to read the Horror Stories about Buyers cutting corners and taking the Cheap Way Out ...and then having to get the "New" A/C Compressor replaced all over again after only 5-8 Weeks.
2004 GMC ENVOY 4.2L L6 A/C Compressor | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
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Mooseman
Moderator
Just thought of this. Is it possibly a slipping/scratchy noise? Could be the clutch slipping, which is fixable by removing a spacer.
Well I think it died. The AC turned on when I started it yesterday and it is making a different sound, more of a screeching sound. And it doesn't cool now. I didn't mean to turn it on. I guess I left it on the last time I drove it as my wife is the one who normally drives it. Anyway I found one place that will replace the compressor / condenser for $1200 and another that I can bring my own parts and they will install the compressor / condenser for $789 or they would use a Napa compressor (re-banded ACDELCO is what they said) and install for $800 without the condenser. Both said I really should change the condenser as metal could be in it.
Mooseman
Moderator
A screeching noise could be the clutch slipping. Look at the clutch while it's running. If it's slipping, you'll see it not turn as fast as the pulley. If that's the case, try this:
Air conditioner clutch shim removal
Air conditioner clutch shim removal
The clutch isn't turning at all. I can see it twitch when the AC cuts on, but it doesn't move.
I read the shim removal thread. Sounds like a temp solution, but I see where it worked for you for 6 years.
I read the shim removal thread. Sounds like a temp solution, but I see where it worked for you for 6 years.
Not to repeat the suggestion too often but... Please review the Step-By-Step Instructions and Warnings via this Link before you decide to do the work yourself:
gmtnation.com
The Compressor, The Condenser and The Accumulator should always be considered R&R as a Complete Set of Major Components. What remains within the Vehicle as the Evaporator Core-Coils nested inside the under-dashboard area as well as the High Pressure and Low Pressure Hoses and Aluminum Tubing should be remotely Flushed with A/C Flush Solvent into a Bucket... neither through the Old Compressor nor the New One... while it is still attached to the A/C System. But going this route would mean that you would have to do ALL of the Removal, Flushing of the System and the Installation work ...yourself.
When it comes to the TCOR (Total Cost Of Repair) the necessity of using a Harbor Freight 2.5 - 3 CFM Vacuum Pump with High Quality Vacuum Pump Oil, the R-134A Refrigerant, the PAG (Poly-Alkyl-Glycol) A/C Lubricant and the Automotive Hi-Lo Manifold Gauge Set will ALL add to the expense of this Repair. Since the Old In-Line Orifice Tube should have caught the majority of any Metal Contamination exiting via the High Pressure side of the A/C Compressor Line, naturally, it should also be replaced.
As mentioned, most reputable Mechanics and A/C Repair Shops will refrain from performing the Condensor Flush in order to prevent Voiding any New Equipment Warranties or risk incurring system failures after mixing in New Components with older ones. So unless you feel that you possess the Skill Set and Experience for this precise repair... Check with RockAuto for All Three major Components first and you'll probably get better quality for less money... and then allow the "Expert" do all of the Dirty Work for you with the Quality Parts you hand over to him.
How-To Repair Your Air Conditioning
This kind of repair involves more than just an R&R of a damaged compressor, since the old refrigerant must be removed from the system and stored in a proper container. Also... once the new compressor is installed, the system MUST have a near perfect vacuum established or the A/C will not ever...
gmtnation.com
The Compressor, The Condenser and The Accumulator should always be considered R&R as a Complete Set of Major Components. What remains within the Vehicle as the Evaporator Core-Coils nested inside the under-dashboard area as well as the High Pressure and Low Pressure Hoses and Aluminum Tubing should be remotely Flushed with A/C Flush Solvent into a Bucket... neither through the Old Compressor nor the New One... while it is still attached to the A/C System. But going this route would mean that you would have to do ALL of the Removal, Flushing of the System and the Installation work ...yourself.
When it comes to the TCOR (Total Cost Of Repair) the necessity of using a Harbor Freight 2.5 - 3 CFM Vacuum Pump with High Quality Vacuum Pump Oil, the R-134A Refrigerant, the PAG (Poly-Alkyl-Glycol) A/C Lubricant and the Automotive Hi-Lo Manifold Gauge Set will ALL add to the expense of this Repair. Since the Old In-Line Orifice Tube should have caught the majority of any Metal Contamination exiting via the High Pressure side of the A/C Compressor Line, naturally, it should also be replaced.
As mentioned, most reputable Mechanics and A/C Repair Shops will refrain from performing the Condensor Flush in order to prevent Voiding any New Equipment Warranties or risk incurring system failures after mixing in New Components with older ones. So unless you feel that you possess the Skill Set and Experience for this precise repair... Check with RockAuto for All Three major Components first and you'll probably get better quality for less money... and then allow the "Expert" do all of the Dirty Work for you with the Quality Parts you hand over to him.
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Both shops mentioned the condenser replacement needed for the compressor warranty. Neither mentioned the accumulator though.
Mooseman
Moderator
So your clutch magnet is probably weak. With the engine off, are you able to turn the clutch by hand easily without any noises or clunking? If it's smooth, then likely it hasn't grenaded and you can get away from replacing the condenser. And yes, it's a good idea to replace the accumulator/dryer regardless. Also a good idea to replace the orifice tube. You could replace the compressor, o-tube and accumulator yourself after having the system evacuated and then have it vacuumed and refilled by a shop.
Reusing the Original Accumulator is never recommended during the replacement of All Major Components because it performs Two Significant Tasks that will ultimately render it Useless:
(1) The design of the Accumulator allows for the collection and temporary storage any free Liquified Refrigerant, storing it safely down inside the bottom of the Container to remain therein until it can be Vaporized and sent down the line into the Low Side of the A/C Compressor. This is necessary "layover" because the A/C Compressor is designed for compressing VAPOR Only. And since All Liquids are In-compressible, if allowed to "slug" back down into the Low Side Line and enter the Scroll Vanes inside of the Pump Section, this action would surely destroy the A/C Compressor.
(2) There is an In-Dwelling Silica Gel packet that is meant to be kept completely Isolated from Ambient Air...lest the Hygroscopic action of the Gel Pack soak up too much moisture out of the exposed Ambient Air, once the lines to the Accumulator get cracked open and removed. When Brand New... The Accumulator Ports AND the A/C Compressor Manifold Ports are all Sealed up with a Charge of Dry Nitrogen; lightly compressed inside so as to provide a slightly pressurized protective positive force to prevent Ambient Air from gaining entry and soaking onto and inside of everything with Water Molecules. Even slight amounts of moisture can tend to Freeze further down into the system inside of the Capillary Lines leading into and fanning across the Evaporator Core. Worse yet... CFC, HFC and HCFC Refrigerant Gases all convert to Hydro-Flouric Acid when exposed to H20 in any amount...and that fraction of Acid will quickly destroy the Internal Compressor Components. For all of these reasons... ALL Accumulators are of the "Use Once ....and Throw Away" Design.
Regardless of whether New or Old Components get buttoned back up into the HVAC System... It will still require being vacuumed down to about 25 Microns in order to evacuate any residual Air, Moisture or Non-Condensible Gases and ensure a Clean System is being fed Clean R-134A Refrigerant Vapor into the Low Pressure Line Port.
(1) The design of the Accumulator allows for the collection and temporary storage any free Liquified Refrigerant, storing it safely down inside the bottom of the Container to remain therein until it can be Vaporized and sent down the line into the Low Side of the A/C Compressor. This is necessary "layover" because the A/C Compressor is designed for compressing VAPOR Only. And since All Liquids are In-compressible, if allowed to "slug" back down into the Low Side Line and enter the Scroll Vanes inside of the Pump Section, this action would surely destroy the A/C Compressor.
(2) There is an In-Dwelling Silica Gel packet that is meant to be kept completely Isolated from Ambient Air...lest the Hygroscopic action of the Gel Pack soak up too much moisture out of the exposed Ambient Air, once the lines to the Accumulator get cracked open and removed. When Brand New... The Accumulator Ports AND the A/C Compressor Manifold Ports are all Sealed up with a Charge of Dry Nitrogen; lightly compressed inside so as to provide a slightly pressurized protective positive force to prevent Ambient Air from gaining entry and soaking onto and inside of everything with Water Molecules. Even slight amounts of moisture can tend to Freeze further down into the system inside of the Capillary Lines leading into and fanning across the Evaporator Core. Worse yet... CFC, HFC and HCFC Refrigerant Gases all convert to Hydro-Flouric Acid when exposed to H20 in any amount...and that fraction of Acid will quickly destroy the Internal Compressor Components. For all of these reasons... ALL Accumulators are of the "Use Once ....and Throw Away" Design.
Regardless of whether New or Old Components get buttoned back up into the HVAC System... It will still require being vacuumed down to about 25 Microns in order to evacuate any residual Air, Moisture or Non-Condensible Gases and ensure a Clean System is being fed Clean R-134A Refrigerant Vapor into the Low Pressure Line Port.
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Not sure if you meant with the belt off or not, but I tried with the belt on. I didn't have time to take it off today anyway. But, I could move the clutch about a quarter of a turn back and forth pretty easily with no noise.
I was also thinking before it died completely you could feel it pull on the engine when it engaged. Wouldn't that mean the compressor was going bad and not spinning smoothly. If the clutch was just slipping / going bad it wouldn't but a strain on the engine when it engaged would it?
Ordered ACDELCO compressor (15-21727) , condenser (15-63656) , accumulator (15-10644) and orifice tube (15-5151) from RockAuto for $507. It will be here on Monday. Parts and labor are going to cost almost what the Envoy XUV is worth.
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Maverick6587
Member
If you need to hold off for any amount of time because of the cost or anything else. You could also replace the compressor with a bypass pulley.
APDTY 45351 Air Conditioner Bypass Pulley - There may be cheaper out there, I just always use Amazon.
You would have to buy the HF vacuum pump to remove the refrigerant. Total cost would be about $100 or so for the bypass pulley and the vacuum pump but, you could drive your Envoy until it starts to get really hot.
APDTY 45351 Air Conditioner Bypass Pulley - There may be cheaper out there, I just always use Amazon.
You would have to buy the HF vacuum pump to remove the refrigerant. Total cost would be about $100 or so for the bypass pulley and the vacuum pump but, you could drive your Envoy until it starts to get really hot.
xavierny25
Member
The shorter belt is probably the best idea, but it is already getting hot. So, it will fixed this week.
the shorter belt for the I6 to bypass the idler pulley and the A/C Compressor is a gates K060695, I just picked one up for my '04 TBLZR EXT. took a minute to install and will keep me from grenading the compressor while I try to change the bearing on my 324,000 mile fully functional compressor.