ABS Light On after repairs

PProph

Well-Known Member
Okay as per 2 other threads I've done, I've recently just completed repairs to my front end including:

LCAs (whole piece including bracket)
UCAs
Upper Ball Joints
Sway Bar Links
Power Steering Lines (all 3)
Exhaust Manifold to CAT pipe seal (donut)

For what I removed to do this, the fuse box and some connections came off entirely when I did the PS lines, and I had my whole left wheel area disassembled to get the steering knuckle off (including brakes, rotors, hub assembly and pulled the CV). I'm thinking that the most likely 2 options are A: I disconnected something and missed reconnecting said something, or B: I blew a fuse or didn't reconnect something in the fuse box properly. Anyone have any ideas where I can focus my search?
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
The start would be to get the ABS codes read, so you would know where to start. The ABS system still has power, or the light wouldnt be on. Now its trying to figure out what has failed.
 
OP
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PProph

PProph

Well-Known Member
Going to borrow a good scanner to read the codes tomorrow, but after doing a little research I'm almost certain I broke my speed sensor off in the bore on my driver front side. It's the only one I took off (the passenger side was less trouble for me than the driver side) and looking at the replacement part and what the end is supposed to look like, pretty convinced that's what happened. Has anyone dealt with this before? Is it possible to get the end of the sensor out of the hub without wrecking anything or am I going to need a new hub and sensor? In the meantime is it driveable (minus the abs which the system deactivates) or is there a safety concern?
 

Up And Down

Well-Known Member
I would start by unplugging and re-plugging in both harnesses for the ABS at the connectors on the end of the hub leads. You might just have a bad connection.
 

Mektek

Well-Known Member
No problem running without the abs sensor - other than no ABS!
It's easy to remove. But use a scanner with ABS diagnostic to tell you which sensor it is.
Or you can use a dvm and check the impedance - if you have an open circuit at the connector the sensor is dead.
 

christo829

Well-Known Member
The only other thing you might have to consider (if the sensor is broken off) is that material working its way down in to the tone ring in the hub. If you can take the time, a friend of mine once broke his off and ended up taking a bamboo skewer with a blob of JB Weld on it (small enough blob that it wasn't going to spread off the broken end of the sensor before it cured) and used that to pull it out.

If there's an edge on it or something you can grab, and you have a pair of thin needlenose or hemostats, those might be a less potentially messy way to pull the fragment out, and faster.

He tried drilling a small hole in the broken end of the sensor, but it just spun as soon as the bit tried to grab.

Good Luck!

Chris
 

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
Other than what @christo829 said, the only way to get that sensor out is to pull the hub off, and push it out the bore on the back side. Than its just a matter of dropping in a new sensor. I think I have a brand new one on the shelf if you need it.
 
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PProph

PProph

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies, good to know I might be able to get it out without replacing the hub. I'll be running the scan tomorrow but I'm pretty sure this is the problem.
 

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