a/c compressor still cooling but making a whirring noise

rolo95

Original poster
Member
Jan 2, 2019
68
USA
my 2002 TB LS
165k miles
i think is time to replace my a/c compressor before it dies, it sound like the bearing is going out, it makes like a whirring noise , only when it engage when i turn on the a/c.

remanufacturer ? or new ?
if i can save some bucks i take even a junkyard one
any stuff that need to be replaced with it ? like O rings, expansion valve or even the accumulator canister ?

btw, mine have a little control on the back for like an a/c vents but that fan blows almost none , so no coolling for the people in the back seat.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I've had no issues with new ones but have with rebuilts. It is much better to replace it before it grenades and sends shrapnel all over in the system. It's usually recommended to replace the receiver/dryer as well as the orifice tube on case of wear and debris.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Sure. Just don't buy Four Seizin.
 
Dec 4, 2011
518
before you spend any money on a new ac compressor double check the electric clutch. This is the only part that rotates all the time and they do wear out.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Yes. Check for.my thread for the clutch from AliExpress
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON

rolo95

Original poster
Member
Jan 2, 2019
68
USA
Thanks moose man, strange that i search and do not get the results.

Ok the clutch do not engage anymore, so I'm cooking in south Texas weather until I replace that compressor :wink:
 

rolo95

Original poster
Member
Jan 2, 2019
68
USA
Do I need to replace this also?

And just to the compressor or the
Compressor and accessories like this one
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230529-124245.png
    Screenshot_20230529-124245.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 1

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
You won't have an expansion valve unless you have an EXT, which is usually not replaced unless it's defective. I also doubt you need that whole kit. The compressor and receiver/dryer with some replacement oil is enough. You would need to replace the condenser if the compressor grenaded and sent shrapnel all over the system. I do recommend that you replace the orifice tube in case it did pick up some junk and the orifice wore a bit.

 

pell

Member
Jun 5, 2017
88
Pelham, NH
I am assuming that may a/c clutch has failed as it was making noise at first when engaged or not. Then only when engaged, it has blown the fuse and does have some very fine metal around the clutch area. Is it safe to say there are only two types of of compressors a 2 or 3 wire?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
AFAIK, there are only two wires and one of them is ground. There was a design change where they went from three pin to two pin however, there were always only two wires.
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
Whenever I've removed the original orifice tube I found the screen to be 60-70% blocked.
So It's worth spending a few bucks to replace it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mooseman

pell

Member
Jun 5, 2017
88
Pelham, NH
So purchased used compressor from the bone yard. Got down to the end removal of the A/C line as usual it it always never easy. The line will not come off, tried everything. Cut the line to get out the unit. Tried to get it off the donor TB, would not come off either. Anyway check out the pic. Is that the high pressure switch I destroyed? Could not find new line anywhere, ****auto had one which I bought for $37.99 with $32.99 regular shipping from NJ to NH about a 3 hour drive. Not happy about shipping cost.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230726_091844440_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230726_091844440_HDR.jpg
    609.2 KB · Views: 10
  • Wow
Reactions: mrrsm and Mooseman

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
That is unfortunate. If you follow the images in this Photo-Play... Ordinarily, other than having to remove the Alternator and Lift Bracket to obtain more room...Taking out the Battery is not a bad idea for the same reasons ... there should have been very little drama here for this R&R.

The High-Low Pressure Manifold and Piping should have just lifted right off after unfastening that single 15mm Nut from the Center Stud and unfastening the A/C High Pressure Sensor Harness Connector and lifting the whole assembly right off of the top A/C Compressor Ports... Thusly:

GMT360ACCOMPREMOVAL0.jpgGMT360ACCOMPREMOVAL1.jpgGMT360ACCOMPREMOVAL2.jpgGMT360ACCOMPREMOVAL3.jpgGMT360ACCOMPREMOVAL4.jpg
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
  • Like
Reactions: mrrsm

pell

Member
Jun 5, 2017
88
Pelham, NH
Sprayed them both with PB blaster thinking the stud was rusted to manifold assembly, not the case. Anyways it that the high pressure switch on the assembly? Thanks
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
I realize that parts are not cheap but take this from someone whos been doing a/c and refrigeration for 50+ years.... Your begging for a major repair bill if any 1 thing is not perfect with that used compressor. I wont go into a long diatribe since you may have it on and working by now but #1 thing ...was there refrigerant in the lines when you took it off the donor car??? If not I would highly recommend you ditch that compressor. You are looking at circulating all kinds of contaminates into the system that will cost you a small fortune to repair. I wouldnt use 1 from a car I was familiar with except in an extreme circumstance. To use 1 from a junkyard you are begging for big big trouble......
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
"Anyways... is that the High Pressure Switch on the Assembly?"

HIGHPRESSUEACSENSOR2.jpg


Yes... And in fact, just as with the Low Pressure Switch (Sub-Part #35 located within the Blue Circle of the next Diagram at the Accumulator) can be replaced WITHOUT having to Evacuate the System Refrigerant due to the presence of it having a *Pressure Keeping Schrader Valve* and a Green Silicone Rubber "O" Ring to Seal the Line... so too can the High Pressure Switch (Sub-Part #25) also be replaced at its position inside of the Red Circle on the Same Diagram depicted below on the Lower Right Side as it too is likewise fitted with a Schrader Valve and a Green Silicone "O" Ring Pressure Seal:

101018TS09-126.JPG

THIS Diagram poses a Close Up of that High Pressure Switch with its Schrader Valve and Green "O" Ring Seal depicted atop the A/C High & Low Pressure Line(s) Aluminum Manifold within the Three Small Red Circles:

HIGHPRESSUEACSENSOR1.jpg
 
Last edited:

pell

Member
Jun 5, 2017
88
Pelham, NH
Thanks for the very informative and helpful reply. I am basically replacing all except the the evap and condenser coils. Saving old compressor as only had a bad bearing on the clutch. Will update when up and running. Stay cool!:thumbsup:
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrrsm and Mooseman

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,273
Posts
637,483
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online