97x Linear - Powder Coating Suspension

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
I decided to go with the oem bilstein 4600s for the struts. Has anyone found a better strut/shock that rides better than the bilsteins? I decided that I wanted to powder coat all of the suspension parts before/while I change the struts. The 97x is the light silver color. I think I'm going to go with the generic black color unless anyone else as any other color suggestions.

I need this to be completed in a weekend. So, the goal is to pull some newer less mileage upper and lower control arms and anything else needed from the junk yard. Sand blast and clean those and then powder coat them. Depending on how long all of that takes, I might just do one side at at time/weekend, something always goes wrong.

I live in Michigan. Are there any types/makes of powder coat that are meant for harsh weather? I'm going to use the powder coating gun from Harbor Freight. I honestly don't care how it looks, they're suspension parts, it's the powder and the baking that's important.

While I have the suspension removed, I'm going to powder coat the frame, as much as possible. My thought was to use a heat gun for the frame powder coat. I'll be taking and posting a bunch of pictures and lessons learned of course.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Oh no, your going about this all the wrong way.

1. Prep is the most important part. sand blast, gas out parts, plug necessary screw, bolt holes.
2. You cant just use a heat gone for powder coat. Parts have to reach a certain temp and cure evenly.
3. If and when you can start with new parts.
4. Everything has to come off of a control arm bushing, ball joints the works. It's got to be stripped.

This is my brothers powder coating business which I'm a big part of. I service his and built his oven and spray both as well as other thing through out his shop.

https://www.instagram.com/eazypowdercoating/?hl=en
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Wow that looks like some pretty awesome powder coating!

For the suspension parts and frame I did plan to do everything you have listed in step one. I can't think of any other way to get the frame up to temp other than the heat gun. Just doing a foot or two at a time. I'm not sure if a paint booth can get up hot enough to melt or cure powder coat, maybe you would know better.

Would something like Line-X be a better idea for the frame?
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
My brother started small as just a weekend and evening thing and just blew up from there. We started with just a basic stand alone electric oven and now I've built a total of 3 ovens for him over ther years.

Paint booths aren't meant to cure or get to the temps powder coat ovens get to. PC ovens are made of steel walls, metal frames and high temp insulation amongst a bunch of other stuff.20180323_103656.jpg
These are the walls of the current oven he is using.20190119_170256.jpg
This is the finished oven with all my Voys parts on display. It's got 4 2500 watt heating elements to get to temp in about 30- 45 minutes of course waiting for the actual parts to get there can take an additional 15-30 minutes add on 15-30 minutes for the PC to do what it does and then its curing time. The end results are priceless.20190313_160321.jpg

My brother was supposed to team up with bullet liner but it's at a stand still at the moment. Line-X is a comparable option and way easier then try to PC a whole car frame. Powder coating a car frame is doable just need the right size spray booth and oven to do it in. We aren't there just yet but we will some day offer it.
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Wow, congrats to you and your brother on that powder coating venture! My plan was to do the same as you two started, with no intentions on going any further, just weekends. My dad needs a fun little side hobby. I figured PC could take up most of his time as needed. He's getting older and can't really use all the monster tools in his garage. This way he can work on smaller items and only have to worry about sand and a few guns.

I'm remembering that you can't just buy line-x and use it at home (maybe I'm wrong). We've got a trailer, I could just tow the frame to line-x. I'll have to call them for pricing. If you can't buy line-x though, what's comparable to line-x? I've heard/seen horror stories about Ziebart. Video below from South Main Auto showing the horror.


Edit: That video is why I was trying to powder coat vs using even line-x. Because they are all rubber based (no research to back that up, just guessing).

I did call line-x though and they said it would cost about $400 to coat the frame and rear axle. Not too bad IMO. I'll probably just use Rustoleum, 3M, or Raptor. Something that also has a good primer.
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
@xavierny25 Do you use metal etching spray or just a self etching primer or just straight primer after sandblasting and cleaning? I was just wondering which works best under PD.

In the weeks leading up to the body pull, I think I'm going to sandblast most of the frame. Then metal etch and/or prime the parts of the frame I can reach just from underneath the vehicle.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
@xavierny25 Do you use metal etching spray or just a self etching primer or just straight primer after sandblasting and cleaning? I was just wondering which works best under PD.

In the weeks leading up to the body pull, I think I'm going to sandblast most of the frame. Then metal etch and/or prime the parts of the frame I can reach just from underneath the vehicle.
Not sure what PD is.... But if we are talking about "PC" after sandblasting Most parts dont need a primer or etching spray depending on the powder used and what it is made up of, some are self etching. It's all about what the powder calls for to get the right results.
My brother does use a cleaning solution after handling parts when and after taping or plugging screw/bolt holes and such. There are curtain colors that are 2,3 or even 4 stage. Which means they start with a base a 2nd stage base and a clear coat or what ever finish the client want. Be it gloss, high gloss, matte, flat, wet.
Here's an example on when a primer is nessacary...2 parts 1 is aluminum 1 is steel if you coat them in the same color no matter what the color is the finish will never look exactly the same. The aluminum part will need the primer to get them right.

I personally don't do powder coating this is totally my brothers thing but I did learn some of the in and outs of it. I can sand blast the hell out of parts though. lol I dont think I've ever laid hands on my brothers PC guns.
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Not sure what PD is.... But if we are talking about "PC" after sandblasting Most parts dont need a primer or etching spray depending on the powder used and what it is made up of, some are self etching. It's all about what the powder calls for to get the right results.

I personally don't do powder coating this is totally my brothers thing but I did learn some of the in and outs of it. I can sand blast the hell out of parts though. lol I dont think I've ever laid hands on my brothers PC guns.
Sorry, I did mean PC (powder coat). Since all of these parts are steel what would be a good powder coat brand to go with. I honestly don't care if it's shiny or looks pretty, this is just a rust prevention project. I'm going for a long term seal, that's pretty much it?

I was looking to get the wrinkle black from this powder coat store, what do you think of it?
Good reviews but, no product name listed, unless it's all their own product I guess.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
Honestly your just better off using POR 15. The way your describing how you want to go about powder coating the underbody,chassis or frame is just NOT going to work no matter what PC company you use.

If you really want to know a really reliable powder company my brother likes Prismatic and from what I've seen I'm a big fan of the company aswell.
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
I'm definitely not going to powder coat the frame or underbody. I'm going to use and undercoat or the POR15 for those parts. The only things that are getting powder coated is the suspension parts. Things that will fit in an oven basically.

Thanks for the powder coat maker suggestion! I'll check them out. As long as it's not too expensive I'll probably just use the Prismatic. I have no other reliable data to go by. Rolling the dice either way. There's always an option for round 2 next year with the suspension or undercoating, lol.

Edit: How many pounds did you use on your suspension parts?
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
I ordered 5lbs because it was the minimum you can order on the 1 I used. We've still got about 2 & half lbs left over for other stuff I have yet to do. I also had to order the clear coat but that's because the color is 2 stage. I think but dont quote me, the wrinkle colors are a 1 stage, so I think 3-4 lbs should go a long way.

Just remembered my brothers first pc gun was from east wood. Worked really well for awhile till he had to step his game up. I think his current set up is about 5-7 grand.

Start small till you get the hang of it you can literally start with just a small toaster over and work your way up. Also make sure to use an electric oven. Gas ovens have way to much of a temp differential and it wont work out.
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
I was going for an electric oven since it is going in the garage, so good to know I was on the right path. My buddy is also going to give me his little stove-top pizza oven, for doing little things like those metal cups that are EVERYWHERE now.

I was going to get that HF gun, but the reviews are so much better for the eastwood dual voltage gun and it's only like $50 more. Thanks again!
 
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Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Which blast media did you use for your suspension. I was thinking of using aluminum oxide for the suspension and frame.

For smooth metals what grit sandpaper do you finish with (depending on the powder type)? I painted cars in a body shop awhile ago and we would finish with 800-2000, depending on the applique. I assume powder coat is similar in regards to finishing grit?
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
We went through 2 blast cabinets using different media materials but have upgrade to a blast room.

We acid wash with b17 all previously painted or PC'ed parts. That stuff will kill you if your not careful or leave you with crazy scars. You can use a basic paint stripper but you've got to be careful with that aswell.20180221_134218.jpg
After this parts get washed and set aside to let dry and then they go into the blast room. Star blast is my brothers go to for just about everything he does. There's countless media's available and yes the finish product will be affected depending on what you use.
 
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