Doing some planning ahead on replacing the starter on my 95 S-10. The official shop manual indicates to loosen the engine and transmission mounts and raise the engine to get the starter out of a 4x4. None of the various online accounts I've read raised the engine. Some said to remove the flywheel dust shield, some disconnect the exhaust pipe, some removed a cross member. All said the clearances were tight. So my question is have any forum members experienced replacing the starter on a 4x4 S-10 4.3L engine? Model years 93, 94 and 95 were similar so I'd guess similar procedures.
'95 S-10 4x4 starter replacement 4.3L engine code W
- Thread starter AbsoluteZero
- Start date
I'll close the loop on this in case it comes up in a search...
Clearances on removing/reinstalling are tight and defy explanation on just how to position to get out and in. Just to say it's doable and keep trying various positions.
After removing the negative battery terminal the vehicle was set on jack stands and the right front tire removed. This gives access to the battery and solenoid connections on the starter....
I found by removing the starter (2 bolts) and tilting the end with the connection UP and the right combo of tools the connections could be removed from the starter thru the wheel well.... tight maneuvering but doable.
At first I didn't think it was possible for the thing to come out..... it was close so I decided to give it a little more clearance... I unbolted but not remove, the flywheel inspection cover.... 4 bolts plus the two rods that stiffen the engine. I didn't remove the stiffener rods at the engine block. I was able to shift the inspection cover and give some more room. The solenoid was near the 4 o'clock position looking toward the front of the engine from below.... as best as I can recall.
Didn't have to jack up the engine or remove the exhaust pipe as was reported in some of the search I did.
Clearances on removing/reinstalling are tight and defy explanation on just how to position to get out and in. Just to say it's doable and keep trying various positions.
After removing the negative battery terminal the vehicle was set on jack stands and the right front tire removed. This gives access to the battery and solenoid connections on the starter....
I found by removing the starter (2 bolts) and tilting the end with the connection UP and the right combo of tools the connections could be removed from the starter thru the wheel well.... tight maneuvering but doable.
At first I didn't think it was possible for the thing to come out..... it was close so I decided to give it a little more clearance... I unbolted but not remove, the flywheel inspection cover.... 4 bolts plus the two rods that stiffen the engine. I didn't remove the stiffener rods at the engine block. I was able to shift the inspection cover and give some more room. The solenoid was near the 4 o'clock position looking toward the front of the engine from below.... as best as I can recall.
Didn't have to jack up the engine or remove the exhaust pipe as was reported in some of the search I did.
supposedly, you can get a starter from a much newer GM truck, that is significantly smaller, higher torque, and lower power drain, lighter in weight, and cheaper. But I cant remember which truck. I seem to remember a 2008 or 2009. The body of the starter is much smaller, but the bolting areas are still just as wide/big.
You will be going from this..
To this
If you look at where the mounting bolt goes, on the top one, its in line with the rest of the body of the starter, and the lower one, is about 3/4 inch, or more, smaller.
You will be going from this..
To this
If you look at where the mounting bolt goes, on the top one, its in line with the rest of the body of the starter, and the lower one, is about 3/4 inch, or more, smaller.
My original post was to see if anyone had actual experience on the 95 era S10's. Several searches suggested it would come out without the "draconian" measures listed in the GM shop manual... so I decided to go for it.
I'm sure some of the aftermarket starters are smaller.. but when searching for the appropriate replacement several were listed at 1.0 kw while the 337-1011 ACD I eventually used was listed at 1.6 kw. I figured if I could get the old one out the new one should go back in. That almost was my downfall. It turned out the replacement ACD had a different solenoid making it slightly larger. The starter's body looked identical. I was able to giggle around the flywheel cover enough to get the replacement back in without any problems.
The diameter of the solenoid was larger so I had to spread the shield apart to get it to fit. There's a shield around the solenoid because of the close proximity to the exhaust manifold. The new starter didn't come with the shield.
I'm sure some of the aftermarket starters are smaller.. but when searching for the appropriate replacement several were listed at 1.0 kw while the 337-1011 ACD I eventually used was listed at 1.6 kw. I figured if I could get the old one out the new one should go back in. That almost was my downfall. It turned out the replacement ACD had a different solenoid making it slightly larger. The starter's body looked identical. I was able to giggle around the flywheel cover enough to get the replacement back in without any problems.
The diameter of the solenoid was larger so I had to spread the shield apart to get it to fit. There's a shield around the solenoid because of the close proximity to the exhaust manifold. The new starter didn't come with the shield.
I had a lot of experience with the S-Series, drove my S15 to 444,752 miles. Miss the reliability of that truck, but not the fuel mileage.
Anyways, I was just saying that I put a smaller starter in mine, the smaller higher torque models had a higher dependability rating, using less power. And with them being smaller, they didn't get nearly as bad of a heat soaking that the larger models did.
Anyways, I was just saying that I put a smaller starter in mine, the smaller higher torque models had a higher dependability rating, using less power. And with them being smaller, they didn't get nearly as bad of a heat soaking that the larger models did.
I filed your info into memory for the next time... if the replacement last another 19 yrs I'll be 94 and may even pay someone to change it.... !!
I bought the S10 with 1600 mi and it's been dependable. Agree fuel economy isn't it's long suit.
I bought the S10 with 1600 mi and it's been dependable. Agree fuel economy isn't it's long suit.