74 / 107 / 114

Best TQ setting for 2003 front sway links


  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
No, that's not the combination to my school locker... it's 3 separate torque settings for front swaybar links. For reference, I have a 2003 LWB.

74 - What I've found online in a few places (and I'm confident this is the 'correct' value, given the number of places I've seen it).

107 - What I found in the 2004 GM Service Manual (that I've been referencing on a continual basis during my repair projects)

114 - Referenced by @xavierny25 in a related post, and he was nice enough to explain that GM revised the setting after 2003.

I'm off to get some washers & lockwashers, and I plan on using the blue loctite.

(for early MY owners especially) - Which setting is best? I've seen references that 'too tight' is bad on these (and we all know that they tend to loosen up w/ time; hence the lockwashers & threadlocker).

I'll post a poll for 'quick' responses, although technical replies are always appreciated, should you wish to add comments.

Almost forgot - my replacements are Moogs.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
I'd use red Loctite. I had that problem on my '02 and egged out the holes. Had to weld them up, redrill and then just tightened them like a mofo. 114 is a little tighter than what is called for and I think it would be sufficient. @xavierny25 should be able to confirm if his held at that torque.
 

xavierny25

Well-Known Member
I used energy suspension sway bar end links (with red urethane bushings) on my Voy after the moog with the blue bushings went out with in 6-8 months after install, might of been sooner.

We have to remember that you have an 03 which are totally different sway bar end link. 06 and up have a straight shaft. 02-05 had the "z link" which is something I have come to terms calling them. Lol.

You might want to give moog a call and ask what they think is a good. You'll probably get the "go by what your oem torque spec say".

So far so good with my end links. I also had my brother-in-law toss a set on his tbss after we found one of his was busted. The tbss had about 65000 miles at the time.
 

Wooluf1952

Well-Known Member
I did the 74 ft. lbs. on my '03 Envoy, but, I also added an extra lock nut on each stud. YMMV
 
OP
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Reprise

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Appreciate the quick replies from both of you.

We have to remember that you have an 03 which are totally different sway bar end link. 06 and up have a straight shaft. 02-05 had the "z link" which is something I have come to terms calling them. Lol.
That explains a lot, actually...thx for the info!
I wondered why I was seeing the 'straight' ones when I searched irrespective of year. So I can see what you're talking about.

While the poll will be open for a couple of days, I'm likely going to go with '107', since '04s were still using the z-links (and that's a pretty good name for them, as well), but GM had revised the TQ spec from '02-'03 (wonder how many early MY owners know this, because all I see online is '74 ft/lb' when I do a general search.)

Since I'm using washers & threadlocker, I'll be the 'guinea pig' for 107. If you don't hear from me again on this, assume no issues! :: laughing::

I'd use red Loctite. I had that problem on my '02 and egged out the holes.
I had the feeling you'd say 'use the red'...LOL. I hear what you're saying - but given that others have reported the Moogs have been failing lately, I'm leaving some 'margin', in case I do wind up replacing them within a year - I don't want to have to break out the torch! :laugh:

(no reply needed to this...just wondering 'out loud'...)
Now that I think about that some more, I'm wondering if I should go with lockwashers *and* threadlocker - because if I have to replace the links again, I'm wondering how I'm going to get the nuts off. It was a real pain in the tuchus to end up finally removing both of the OEM ones off with the Sawzall (but at least I learned how to use a recip. saw correctly! LOL)

Both of the OEMs stripped the allen slots with just a few turns to go - and I broke a pair of good (read: genuine) USA-made Vise-Grips on the first one. Very aggravating, to say the least - and it took a long time to saw through the bolts (yes, I had a good metal blade!)
 
Last edited:

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Build your own decent links and tighten them up good...see that measurement :wink:...with a pair of 3/4 wrenches and screw the stock style crap
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
I think mine called for 96 ft-lbs per the piece of paper it came with. Last time I dropped the bar I ran them on with red locktite and tightened as much as possible. Haven't had one loosen up yet... going on 60k. I usually have to break them free with a torch and breaker bar or an impact. Red locktite is pretty strong. Or is it permatex that I have in the drawer.... unless it's coarse thread tighter won't hurt at all. (May have stripped one out going to 107 that had coarse thread)
 

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