7 of 8....2007 Tahoe plugs

{tpc}

Original poster
Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
So after the success of yesterday's wrenching which saw me replace both front axles and a leaky front axle seal successfully, I'd thought I'd try to tackle this.

Did the drivers side first, went smooth, last plug closest to firewall was tight, but went ok.

Started on the passenger side, made it all the way to the last plug again closest to firewall all ok. A couple were a bit tight coming out, but new ones went in ok.

I called no mas on the last one closest to the firewall because weather was threatening and due the the angle and placement I couldn't wiggle the boot off. I think I got close, but I need to drive this thing lol and I opted for the safe route of seating it back in the best I could for the night.

So what's the trick? What's the easiest way to get at this sucker? I figured if I got the boot off and my plug socket on I could then determine the best way to come at it with extensions and swivels. But even that was a challenge.

What's the long term ramifications of not replacing the last plug at the same time as the other seven? I figure might have to wait till next weekend to try again.

And I thought the front diff seal was going to give me trouble...lol.
 

linneje

Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
I don't know the Tahoe setup but on my Envoy 5.3L I went through the wheel well for the pass plug closest to the firewall and it was easy, much easier than the access that I had from the top. See if that is an option for you.
 

AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
linneje said:
I don't know the Tahoe setup but on my Envoy 5.3L I went through the wheel well for the pass plug closest to the firewall and it was easy, much easier than the access that I had from the top. See if that is an option for you.
I also went through the right front wheel well.

The toughest part was getting the plug wire off!
I couldn't get my fingers around it to twist it. I used my hose pliers and was able to grip and twist the plug boot.


Then it was not too bad with the right combination of socket and extension.
 

{tpc}

Original poster
Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
Ok. I think I may try this at lunch today on the lift at work. Pain in the butt to have to pull the wheel and wheel well insides, but if that will do it, then I'll give it a go.

With luck, I won't have to ever do this again. I have just about every extension and swivel I own with me, so hopefully I can get up in there.

Its like the built the truck piece at a time with no planning....Ok put in engine here...ok bolt all this other stuff here..naw don't worry about the plugs they are 100k mile plugs, we won't be around when they have to be changed! LOL
 

linneje

Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
I know what you are talking about. My friend teaches mechanics and looked at the plug access for my 5.3L and just laughed .....
 

{tpc}

Original poster
Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
Task completed! Still a pita. I broke the ceramic of the old plug but luckily it snapped at the base and didn't shatter on the inside. It was almost out at that point, so I just put the plug socket back on it and twisted the rest out by hand. Getting the new one in was a delicate situation as well, but once I got it in I could thread it with 2 fingers.

Started up fine. I'm thinking I'll never have to do this again thankfully for the remainder of the life of the truck! lol

Thanks all for the tips and suggestions!

Oh, and this plug looked the best of all 8. Go figure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Robbabob

AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
Please tell me that you used anti-seize compound on the plug threads...
 

{tpc}

Original poster
Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
I cannot tell a lie, I didn't use anti-seize. Prior to this expedition, I did some searching around on the internet about this very thing. It was met with quite mixed reviews. Some say yes. Some say no. Some say it promotes over torqueing. Some say your screwed if you don't. The list goes on.

Kinda like the person who says they just torque them down good and tight. My guess is thats well over the 11 ft-lbs as indicated by the manual. In my case I used a calibrated digital torque wrench from work. I'm sure both ways suffice though. :smile: In my earlier years I did just torque them down tight with no gauge on multiple cars...never had an issue getting one out. :smile:

In this case, all of the plugs, with the exception of the last one, came out without breaking, and pretty easily as well. After some soul (and internet) searching I decided that of all the cars I've ever replaced plugs in, which has been every vehicle I've owned for the most part, I've never used anti-seize on them. So I didn't in this case either. I figure by the time these need to be pulled for some reason, something else will be very wrong. The ones that came out also showed no indication that anti-seize was used on them either.

The only reason the one broke imo was because of that god awful angle trying to get in there, I feel the plug socket came off the metal at some point and I cracked it off getting it back in or out. And 2 thumbs up of the placement of that heat shield right there...I'm sure its necessary, but so is the pint of blodd I lost slicing my hand open on it! LOL :eek:

Maybe it was a mistake to not use anti-seize. Who knows.
 

Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
Great to hear of your success! I have also read stories on both sides of the anti-seize of the threads on plugs.

While I did them on the TB and my Dakota, the threads are exposed to the fire in the chamber. Upon removal, all lube was gone, zilch, zero remained. Like a sheep, I still put it on in my Dakota with no clue as to why.

:thumbsup:
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
I think it's the little bit that is still threaded in the head metalthat counts to get the anti-seize on. Yeah, a lot of the threads might be inside the cylinder, but there's still a quarter inch or so (that's a complete guess) that's in metal and that's where they seize.
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,272
Posts
637,482
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher

Members Online