5.3 EXHAUST MANIFOLD BROKEN BOLT FIX

[northcreek]

I guess this is a common problem and it's happened to me. I have the classic cold engine exhaust leak sound and it looks like the pass side front 2 bolts have snapped off.
I saw this product for a quick fix and it has good reviews. Has anybody used it? Mike
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Exhaust...ash=item466171deee:g:qcgAAOSwg8tZ~o-B&vxp=mtr

 

[mrrsm]

Mike...

Regardless of their particular design shape... the power of these brackets will certainly hold well as long as all three opposing bolts are Triangulated against each other. Therefore, they will constantly work to provide sufficient pressure against the Exhaust Manifold to make it behave. This installation and demonstration video might interest you and improve your confidence in the idea behind its design:

 

[northcreek]

Thanks!...I generally don't go with bandaid solutions but, the age of the Voy and the difficulty of doing it the right way has twisted my arm.
There is the Dorman and Kral clamps, I bought Dorman since it's cheaper and looks more engineered. I guess I could easily make one but, I'm older and lazier now.
Luckily it's the right front(this time), the left rear is supposed to be a bleeding knuckles nightmare.

 

[Bow_Tied]

Please do a write up!

 

[Reprise]

I bought Dorman since it's cheaper and looks more engineered. I guess I could easily make one but, I'm older and lazier now.
Luckily it's the right front(this time), the left rear is supposed to be a bleeding knuckles nightmare.

I haven't seen the other vendor's solution, but thankfully, there's nothing electrical for Dorman to get wrong.

If you ever have to do the left rear, definitely consider going 'under', rather than from up top. My plugs were so much easier on that side going through the wheel well (and the fender liners even have a flap for access.) While it would be a pain and extra time to remove the fender liner (given the things that sit on top of it), I think even that, if you had to do it, would be easier than going from the top.

On the RH side, I found #1 (where you'll be going) the *worst* of all, given the ECT sensor is right in that area (unplug it), as well as the wiring harnesses and the bracket that connects to the alternator mount plate. Plus my one really stuck plug boot was on that cylinder; I mangled the heat shield getting it off. But I think 'up top' is still the way to go on the RH side.

Please do a write up!

+1 - this would be great to have, given how often exhaust manifolds crack, and the only alternatives would be a new manifold (yeah, right), or headers (which don't exist that I know of, unless someone made their own from scratch).

 

[northcreek]

It's hard to believe that the Engineers couldn't see this thing coming. I mean really, this is not ground breaking technology....BOLTS SNAPPING! come on

 

[mrrsm]

Trying to get the Fender Well Liner and Bumper Push-Pin Fasteners out with common tools that I thought would suffice was a big mistake. Using a Flat-Blade Screw Driver and a Pair of Pliers only ruined the soft material and made the R&R of these damned things an absolute nuisance.

Instead… I wound up getting these tools (...especially those Lisle Pliers) and Man… What a difference it made in doing the job so much easier on my son’s 2003 Silverado torn-off front bumper fascia and wheel well work:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0KXRM7/?tag=gmtnation-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07227DD1Q/?tag=gmtnation-20

Tiny HJ...about the Headers issue... @Reprise... will either the Long or the Shorty versions of this Set of Advance-Adapters Headers fit on and in your 2003 GMC Envoy XL...?

https://www.carid.com/2003-gmc-envo...e-adapters-performance-headers-466237476.html

 

[Reprise]

Tiny HJ...about the Headers issue... @Reprise... will either the Long or the Shorty versions of this Set of Advance-Adapters Headers fit on and in your 2003 GMC Envoy XL...?

Hmm...they might; I'd need to do some homework. But at least you found some. I'd probably go for the longer ones; they look like the better option.
TY for taking the time to search for these.

Re: push pin tool - I could see a professional using these, as time is his enemy and he deals with this daily. But for a duffer like myself, I wouldn't make the spend. The hardest fasteners for me are the 'xmas tree' ones (especially when I don't recognize them as such before I pull them)

OK...time to get back on topic...

 

[m.mcmillen]

Here's my input:

I work on a fleet of about 17 Chevy Express 15 passenger vans. They all have a 6.0 (same manifold design). They all break on the front and rear of the head on both sides. Several of the vans have one of these installed and they work great.

There is a catch, though. This summer, one of the vans that had this part installed, had an exhaust manifold gasket start to leak. I thought, "no big deal, I'll just pull it, extract the broken bolts, install a new gasket, and be good to go". It all went great, I pulled out three broken bolts and started bolting the new manifold on. The bolt holes on the manifold wouldn't line up because the manifold was warped so bad.

I think that the manifold warped because it didn't have a bolt in the end holes to hold it in place. When you use one of these clamps, I think that just having a bolt pressing down on the manifold allows it to move too much as it heats and cools. I could be wrong though.

I think that the sooner you hear a leak and stick one of these clamps on, the better. That way you don't risk blowing out the gasket. I do have other vans that have had these installed for years and so far, no problems besides the one.

 

[northcreek]

Follow up: I installed the Dorman repair bracket today and it's pretty straight forward. The bracket appears to be cast steel and is machined for a nice fit, very well made.
Once the air box and washer reservoir are removed there is plenty of room to work. I had to carefully bend the aluminum heater tubes slightly to get clearance for the bracket.
As I tightened the draw down bolt I could see the manifold to head gap close.

 

[Bow_Tied]

Nice pics! How do you 'massage' the heater tubes? Hammer?

 

[northcreek]

Nice pics! How do you 'massage' the heater tubes? Hammer?

A combination of a large screwdriver and hands. They are soft aluminum and bend easily.

 

[rizzo20]

I installed these clamps last spring ----> HERE <--- . I have them on all four corners of my v8 . I didn't use locktite on the clamping bolts the first time around and the ticking came back in about a month. I redid those bolts with loctite (red) and haven't heard a peep since. Best $100 spent, ever!

 

[mrrsm]

@northcreek ...Those Images are Perfect...and FAQ worthy if you can... Ask @Mooseman to Add them to any Exhaust Manifold "Stickies"

 

[Mooseman]

Added it to the FAQ, along with @rizzo20 's that was already there.

 

[Kelly@PCMofNC]

That's interesting, I have never thought of that before! Being a shop we'll just R&R the head and extract the bolt but I know that's not always an option for a home repair.

 

[tigr2000]

I have a broken bolt on the rear passenger side. I havent seen a solution for that location, perhaps because there arent any mounting holes on the right side head rear (near firewall). Can someone share what they know about a possible solution for that location?

 

[Mooseman]

The usual fix is to remove the entire manifold and remove the broken bolt by welding a nut to it. Lots of videos on YT about it.

 

[azswiss]

What's the application (year, model)? Do you have a casting # for the head? Not sure of your specifics but if it is a 706 or 862 Dorman has an Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp that works on the right rear (& left front). I installed this my '03 Suburban (left front) several years ago and it has held up well. Here is a RA link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6278454&cc=1412198&pt=48942&jsn=11184

 

[tigr2000]

What's the application (year, model)? Do you have a casting # for the head? Not sure of your specifics but if it is a 706 or 862 Dorman has an Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Repair Clamp that works on the right rear (& left front). I installed this my '03 Suburban (left front) several years ago and it has held up well. Here is a RA link:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6278454&cc=1412198&pt=48942&jsn=11184

Thanks for the feedback! I have a 2010 Tahoe 5.3L
My mechanic buddies are saying "don't mess with it" since its not leaking. But if it becomes problematic, i beleive Dorman 917-142 is the correct Repair Clamp.

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