4WD Disconnect Advice

[psa55]

Hey all,

Looking for a little advice on the 4WD Disconnect. Had the TB in for it Motor Vehicle Inspection yesterday... the Tech noticed quite a bit of play in the front passenger CV Driveshaft. I grabbed it to see and its got some slack in the outer seal and bearing on the 4WD Disconnect and the CV Driveshaft. It would appear to me that I am going to have some issues come this Fall hunting and in the snow. The Disconnect and Driveshaft were replaced 6 yrs ago...

I'm not sure I'm up for 4WD Disconnect rebuild, and have looked at the rebuild thread sticky'd here. If I got rebuild parts, would I be saving much money, really? I need advice on replace it now, or drive it till it fails, as my 4WD is still functioning, as of this Spring? Do I run the risk of further damage?

Secondly, if I replace the 4WD Disconnect, is there a recommended brand? I've read the sticky on replacement and noticed the original post on here used this one: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=161509948512 from US Powertrain. The shop that did the first disconnect used this one: https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/7...an-mounted-disconnect-shifter-assy-4wd-02-09/. I can get a Dorman from RA around $550 CDN, plus shipping.

Lastly, I've got the feeling I could handle the job myself, provided I didn't run into to big issues with it seized to my oil pan... thoughts on the numbers of times you run into issues with it seized? I'll probably but a new CV Driveaxle in at the same time, with the potential it is quite worn. At least, I'll have a new one on hand, in case.

** SHIT ** EDIT ** sorry, I didn't see the thread just down from this before I posted... My axle play is definitely not nearly as bad as in the video that @BanditGTP posted a little while ago, but I am trending that way...

 

[Matt]

I got the US Powertrain one and it's been fine.

 

[TJBaker57]

Now I've never done this,,,, but what do you folk think about a repair/rebuild in place?? Assuming the unit isn't too far gone and you're just looking at outer bearings and seal? It would avoid the potential "stuck to oil pan" issue. Of course you could always try to remove it and if it comes off easy then you're good, but if it is stuck has anyone repaired theirs in place?

 

[Mooseman]

I dunno. Without taking it out, you can't inspect the whole thing. I supposed it could be done if you don't need to replace the inner bearing or seal.

That price for a new one is ludicrous (for Canada). I'd get a good used one, take it apart, clean out the congealed grease, load it with fresh grease, close it up and install. If you go to a U-Pull, sometimes the axle has already been pulled leaving the disco easy to inspect the bearing and remove.

 

[BrianF]

You could try to rebuild in place. Most of the internals should come out with the outer half. When I rebuilt in 2014..? The bearings cost me 23 bucks each and the seals were about the same.

 

[TJBaker57]

I looked over my pictures of when I replaced mine. I disassembled the old one to see how it worked and what was the failure. It looks like the outer half could be taken off readily and bearings and the like renewed. I suspect the inner bearing fails far less often than the outer bearings.

I think it might be kept in reserve as an option if one cannot get the old one out of the oil pan. I took my time carefully working mine out with sprays and thin screwdrivers working equally round the unit. It was the CV shaft that wouldn't budge in place so I removed them together.

 

[psa55]

I might be in business.. did some digging around the garage and found the old disconnect in a box.... housing appears to be in good shape and is relatively clean. Gonna disassemble and examine all the parts and revisit the sticky on a rebuild! I talked with a former TB owner that has one kicking around as well, and I'm gonna get his. He says its got the actuator still on it.

I'll be a bit before I get around to this, but this definitely appears like my best option at this point. I'll report back when I have updates. Thanks everyone for your input!

Even, between those two and the one in the TB, I might be able to rebuild with few parts.

 

[psa55]

Progressed faster than I thought... everything from both disconnects cleaned up and one put back together.

I ordered a new cv shaft seal and needle bearing for the one closest to the seal, from the dealer a few minutes ago. $15 for each and I'll have em at 8am tomorrow. Then its install those parts and grease everything well, and I'm off to the races. The rebuild was way simpler than I anticipated.

I am going to have a new cv shaft on hand when I attempt the install, just in case the one currently on the SUV is well worn or damaged. Hopefully this was found early enough that I don't need that too. Hopefully its no too stuck to the oil pan.

I guess ill be all set to rebuild in place, if that happens!

 

[psa55]

I'm rebuilding right now... everything came apart easily... Appears to be some wear on the CV Shaft, so I have a new one ready to go, in.

Does anyone know off hand, what the torque specs are for the 4WD Disconnect bolts, and the specs for the Disconnect to Oil Plan bolts.

EDIT: Think I found them... 35 ft lbs, as this is considered the Intermediate Shaft Housing in the 08 Service Manual.

 

[psa55]

Okay, final update. Disconnect is completely rebuilt, installed and tested. Works great! Total cost is $34 CDN, for an outer seal and needle bearing, at the dealership. When I cleaned up the CV axle, the end was good! Even tested the fit with the bearing from the disconnect... solid and tight, with no slack.

I was hesitant to tackle this, until I broke a disconnect open and saw how simple the mechanism to rebuild.

I was able to take the CV Driveshaft without disassembling the lower ball joint. With the actuator removed from the disconnect, there was room squeeze the CV out.

So appreciative of everyone here!

 

[BrianF]

Glad you got it figured out!! I to was totally surprised at how easy a job it actually was. Its a simple design, sure the engineers threw in some curve balls but it saves a guy a pile of money.


I rebuilt mine at 164,000km and 250,000 or something. In between that, about two years ago I pulled the cv shift out, had a look and slathered in some fresh grease on the bearing and called it good. Probably not needed but I sure as shit don't want a failure.