Okay. Got the bilstiens in today , but on the front passenger side of the truck , where the axle goes into the differential , it is very loose. Is it the electronic part with the lug that could be bad or the entire differential ? Sorry. 4wd is all new to me and I’ve only used it a few times
4wd actuator ?
- Thread starter KEEBZ489
- Start date
That would be the front axle disconnect. The grease inside dries out, the bearings fail, the seals fail and so on. If you can find the parts they can be rebuilt. Most people change them entirely. I used this brand 6 years ago or so. There are less expensive options you will readily find.
Amazon.com: ATP Automotive 111001 4WD Front Axle Disconnect: Automotive
Buy ATP Automotive 111001 4WD Front Axle Disconnect: Transmission & Drive Train - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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There is a write-up here on their operation...
Front Axle 4WD Disconnect Rebuild | offroadTB.com
offroadtb.com
I replaced mine many years ago when there were not so many available. Even so, I seldom use the cheapest of anything!
Mooseman
Moderator
Well, lookie here!
gmtnation.com
FOR SALE - BNIB AWD Axle Disconnect
I’ll ship this to you for $150.00. My cost was $154.00 + shipping. The package has not been opened, not even to inspect it ... it’s absolutely untouched. The vehicle was sold this past weekend and I no longer need this.
gmtnation.com
Chickenhawk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 781
Mooseman
Moderator
Well, it could work. Just have to leave the actuator connected and hanging there inside a plastic bag or something to make the TCCM think it's there. Only minor downside is possibly a slightly lower MPG due to the front diff being connected all the time and spinning the front driveshaft. I didn't notice any difference in MPG when I removed my front axles and driveshaft so it is minimal.
Some off-roaders use these instead of the actual disconnecting type as there is less stuff to break inside. But yeah, if you want complete plug and play, get the one for 4x4 instead of AWD.
Some off-roaders use these instead of the actual disconnecting type as there is less stuff to break inside. But yeah, if you want complete plug and play, get the one for 4x4 instead of AWD.
4wd , i fixed the profile. thanks for catching. i see dorman makes one , most reputapble name that i know , i see revieaws on amazon of the $100 ones and 1/2 the people say they fail.
Mooseman
Moderator
From what we've heard here and those reviews, the part that fails on those are the electric actuators (the black plastic part). If your old one still works, you could swap in your old one.
Don't put all your money on Dorman. Their hard parts are good but anything electrical is from them is questionable. Looking what they're offering, they don't even include the actuator for that $370! They're probably all made in the same sweat shop in China. Some of the reviews on the Dorman say it's not even a Dorman but a clone. Also a review saying it's a USPowertrain.
Don't put all your money on Dorman. Their hard parts are good but anything electrical is from them is questionable. Looking what they're offering, they don't even include the actuator for that $370! They're probably all made in the same sweat shop in China. Some of the reviews on the Dorman say it's not even a Dorman but a clone. Also a review saying it's a USPowertrain.
Amazon.com: Customer reviews: Dorman 600-115 4WD Actuator Housing
Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Dorman 600-115 4WD Actuator Housing at Amazon.com. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users.
www.amazon.com
Chickenhawk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 781
I'm afraid my friend Moose is correct; they are all made in the same one or two factories in China. Some are finished better than others. I got an SKP one from Rock Auto, and reused my old actuator. (It was only six months old.) Crap shoot as to which one is best. I don't think anyone has found one head and shoulders above anyone else. If it comes with an actuator, throw it away. If the SKP one is still out of stock, I would look at USPowertrain, and reuse the old actuator.
Before you do this, how much play are you getting? Mine has about 1/4-inch play, to the point I can rattle it when I shake it, but it doesn't make noise when driving. I think this play is about normal.
Before you do this, how much play are you getting? Mine has about 1/4-inch play, to the point I can rattle it when I shake it, but it doesn't make noise when driving. I think this play is about normal.
more than 1/4 for sure , plus its oil stained , so im assuming grease has been spitting out. the electrical module seems okay , wont know if its cracked or anything till i pull it. there was no play at all from what i remember when i did my lca and ball joints in summer 2019. i have no clicking noise , but do have a drone like a wheel bearing i cant nail down , thought it was just the muffler i put on and left it as that. the inner joint of my axle pulls apart so maybe that has to do with the excess play in the lock out.
sucks that noone makes a solid one , and im not 100% confident in myself rebuilding it if it can even be done
sucks that noone makes a solid one , and im not 100% confident in myself rebuilding it if it can even be done