4.2 Oil Prime

[Red955i]

Hello again

Another crazy question. Is there a way to pre-lube a 4.2? I've done more SBC than I can count using a primer and a drill and a mechanical oil gauge. Can make sure everything is well lubed before first crank

Anyway to easily (yes I can't believe I used that word in the Trailblazer world) accomplish this

 

[TollKeeper]

I could be wrong, but I dont think I am.. Since the Oil Pump Gerator is directly connected to the front snub of the crankshaft, I would say no. I would likely just disconnect the harness/plugs for the coils, and crank the engine with the starter, until the oil pressure guage showed pressure.

 

[mrrsm]

Unfortunately... with the advent of Crankshaft Mounted Gerotor Oil Pumps...that technique will no longer function. But ...Yes… It can and SHOULD always be used on Newly Assembled Atlas Engines and also with Motors that have been sitting for long periods of Dormancy where the Lubrication Gravity Drains out of the Oil Galleries.

This Image should give you a good impression of just how many Oil Galleries and Channels must be reached and 'Filled to The Brim" with Royal Purple Engine Break In Motor Oil:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q3CC5K/?tag=gmtnation-20

This condition threatens to present with a “Dry Motor Start” that can Destroy Engine Bearings if the Motor Oil Pressure cannot come up to speed before the Gerotor Oil Pump can fully “Re-Fill” those vacant Bearing Spaces and purge out any Air.

THIS Device is an example of a Commercial Grade Engine Builder’s Pneumatic Powered Pre-Oiler Machine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BGB7TK/?tag=gmtnation-20



You would also need an M16 X 1.50 to ½” NPT Adapter with a Crush Washer for sealing that Adapter through the Front, Lower Right Passenger Side Port adjacent to the Oil Filter Manifold ...sealed shut with an H-8 mm Plug that must be exchanged with THIS Adapter connected to the filling hose on the Pre-Oiler:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKM4PU/?tag=gmtnation-20



But if you feel ‘inventive’ you could try building something like the Pre-Oiling Machine I designed and constructed that I call:

“The Franken-Oiler Machine”

Here are some of the Final Images of a Device that proved itself indispensable on more than one occasion. When in Doubt… Pre-Oil Motors that have been Dormant for Long Periods and in Very Cold Climates, Too! Remember to watch the Analog Oil Pressure Gauge and as soon as it rises above 12 PSI, Use a Large Socket and a Ratcheting Breaker Bar to slowly Crank the Motor Clockwise ONLY and this will help to clear any Air Pockets and empty spaces win the Oil Galleries and around the Main Bearing Journals.



If you'd care to read how I figured out the Design and Construction of this thing...Please visit THIS GMT Nation Link:

ENGINE SWAP: 2004 for 2002 GM ATLAS 4.2L MOTOR

Benjamin Franklin once scolded an under-achieving friend by saying this: “Well Done… Is Better Than... Well Said...” http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60dgrzbelow0/library/0000TRAILBLAZERENGINEREPAIR/GMATLASENGINESWAP?sort=2&page=1 It follows that in spite of how much time, energy, effort and...

gmtnation.com

 

[Mooseman]

Although not the same engine but the same principle. When I replaced the oil pump on my 5.3, I removed the plug from the oil gallery in front, shoved an appropriately sized tight fitting 3-4 foot long hose in it, put a funnel on the end and let gravity fill the pump with oil.

 

[Mooseman]

 

[Red955i]

I was wondering if I could remove the oil pressure sender tap in there. I have an electric oil extractor I use for boat I could put the suction in oil and the other end to that fitting. I would think it would oil the bearings

 

[mrrsm]

Leave the Oil Pressure Sender alone... it's Large Metric Size and Thread Pitch make it inordinately hard to find Oil Feed Line Adapters for (M16 X 2.00 X 15MM ...Marked HERE with a RED X).

Instead, use the Front Facing Aluminum Hex( H-8 (H-10?) Metric M16 X 1.50 Plug)... Marked HERE within the GREEN CIRCLE and thread in the matching Metric to NPT Adapter for the Pre-Oiler Hose right there:

 

[Red955i]

Ok thats great info. I ordered those adapters and will adapt my pump to them and start pumping in oil. Just so I can get the bearings oiled I'll be happy. I've always primed my small blocks before ever attempting to start it

 

[gmcman]

Here's a good read, similiar to what you are looking to accomplish.

4200 oiling system - notes and mod's

The 4200 uses an oil pump in line with the crank driven directly from the front crank snout. The oil pump is contained in the front cover, the crank drive interface is part of the lower timing gear and "floats" on the crank snout. The lower timing gear is driven off the c...

www.inliners.org

 

[Redbeard]

Another thought on the prelubing might be "unplug" the ignition system so the motor could not start and just let the starter turn every thing over. To turn over quicker take out the spark plugs doing the above.
Up until a few years back after an oil change I would remove the distributor wire and turn the engine over until the oil pressure gauge would read pressure and the reconnect the distributor wire and start the engine.

 

[gmcman]

Thinking way back to the late 80's when I was looking into a turbo timer for an older BMW, I found an accumulator that fills from oil pressure, then uses a gravity drain back to the turbo when the engine is shut down.

Something like this could be used but instead of a gravity drain, incorporate a pump to fill the bearings at the points listed in my previous post.

Somehow use a check valve to fill, but use a solenoid to release the oil with the aid of a low PSI pump.