Hello everyone. I’m new here and would really appreciate some help. I have a 2005 SL jimmy and it’s recently come to have a lot of electrical issues I think…. It started with dying over night, then progressed into not wanting to run at all, I put a new alternator in it and that fixed the running issue, then I put a new battery in it and that fixed all this issue….. for about 3 days then it went back to not wanting to start after sitting over night and not really running healthy. I’ve been going through and cleaning grounds (I’ve only found and cleaned like 3 under the battery. The ac compressor is now almost killing the truck and turning the steering wheel is dropping the rpm. It only idles at 500-600 rpm. I have no clue what to do as I’m only 20 and have never really worked on cars. Any help would be appreciated, thank you
NEED HELP 2005 jimmy electrical issues
- Thread starter Mike jimmy
- Start date
Here is a starting point for technical data like wiring diagrams and such. Not really easy to find stuff in there but once one gets familiar with the layout it can help.
Free Service Manual for the 2005 GMC Jimmy (CANADA) V6-4.3L VIN X | Operation CHARM
Detailed repair manual for the 2005 GMC Jimmy (CANADA) V6-4.3L VIN X, including electrical diagrams, recommended bolt torques, and estimated labor times.
charm.li
With a Full Charged Battery... Try pulling the Serpentine Belt and Starting the Engine only briefly... Listen to the Engine Response for around 30 seconds or so for any significant differences in sound or performance and then shut down the Motor in order to avoid soon overheating the engine and warping the Engine Head.
While the Belt is still off... examine the various Accessories that have either Pulleys or Idler Bearings and Belt Tensioners for an undue amount of Physical Resistance... Or Grinding Sensations when hand spun.
If under ordinary operation, the Engine Power dies as soon as the A/C Compressor engages... that might be the major source... but because ALL of the Accessories share the same driving force via the Serp-Belt and start and stop essentially at the same time... more than one might of them might be contributing as part of this problem. This "Hands On" Inspection may prove to be very revealing.
While the Belt is still off... examine the various Accessories that have either Pulleys or Idler Bearings and Belt Tensioners for an undue amount of Physical Resistance... Or Grinding Sensations when hand spun.
If under ordinary operation, the Engine Power dies as soon as the A/C Compressor engages... that might be the major source... but because ALL of the Accessories share the same driving force via the Serp-Belt and start and stop essentially at the same time... more than one might of them might be contributing as part of this problem. This "Hands On" Inspection may prove to be very revealing.
Last edited:
So it seems it was the radio that was killing the tuck. It sat for 3 days and started up just perfectly but now the cluster won’t work. Only the battery gauge and the oil pressure. But I can’t find any kind of diagram to test anything unfortunately
Mooseman
Moderator
So unplugging the radio allows everything to work? Probably your best bet would be to just replace it with an aftermarket because getting a used OEM one would require getting the VIN programmed to it.
Bow_Tied
Member