NEED HELP 2004 Sierra 1500 2wd 5.3l ignition switch wiring

Brice0113

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Hello guys. I'm having a problem with my ignition switch or body control module I'm not sure which. When I try to start the truck it does nothing no crank no start. But if I pull the relay out of the socket underneath the hood I can jump it and then it'll start but it won't shift. It does go into gear but it will not shift gears. However if I put a jumper wire in the back of the ignition switch connector giving a red wire on the bottom of the connector the 12 V that it should have to begin with everything works fine. Now, when I test the voltage on that wire with the ignition off I'm only getting about half the volts it should, I'm showing about 6 to 7 V, with a full 12 V on the other wire on the top side of the connectorwith positive voltage coming into the ignition switch. As soon as I turned the ignition switch on, all the voltage goes away from the wire on the bottom of the connector. I hope I explained that right. Has anybody else had this problem? Also, does anyone have a diagram for the pin out of the ignition switch connector? That would be greatly appreciated.
 
The wiring and pin diagrams should be available here:


Did you check the fuses? One or two usually supply the switch. Also check for corrosion or loose connection in the fuse box, which could explain a lower voltage.
 
Given the Odd Nature of this issue, and with the understanding that what follows took place on a Completely Off Line Computer that has No Access to The Internet (to preserve your privacy), I copy-pasted your entire Post#1 information into Three Different Large Language Models that share the Nomic "GPT4ALL" Chat-Bot interface and then Screen Printed *Their* responses, rather than copying the text back here and saved each one as individual JPEGs.

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Last edited:
The wiring and pin diagrams should be available here:


Did you check the fuses? One or two usually supply the switch. Also check for corrosion or loose connection in the fuse box, which could explain a lower voltage.
Yes I checked for all of that
 
Given the Odd Nature of this issue, and with the understanding that what follows took place on a Completely Off Line Computer that has No Access to The Internet (to preserve your privacy), I copy-pasted your entire Post#1 information into Three Different Large Language Models that share the Nomic "GPT4ALL" Chat-Bot interface and then Screen Printed *Their* responses, rather than copying the text back here and saved each one as individual JPEGs.

As with all Artificial Intelligence LLMs (Large Language Models)... Their *Opinions* may vary enough (or on occasion, can be completely wrong) that having quite a few to choose from when looking for consistency with their collective *Advice* seems like a good idea. Conversely, in many cases, their information is Basic and Common Sense Data that you are very familiar with. In other cases... *They* can be DBOM (Dead Balls On Mark) with Good, Accurate Problem Solving Information.

Hope *Their* inputs help you here:

View attachment 116798View attachment 116799View attachment 116800

If you fancy having Your OWN Completely Private, Powerful, Off Line "Oracle at Delphi" AI Assistant that, with a "One Button Installation" action, can offer multiple versions of Large Language Models to Download and Use with Privacy and Safety, Running LOCALLY on MAC, Windows and Linux Computers that will NOT leak your interactions back to The Internet, visit Nomic's Link Below and Download, Install and Use "GPT4ALL" ...completely for FREE:

Man I can't read that. The letters are too small. I can't download the program because it wants me to do it on the desktop. Can you just copy and paste that here?
 
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Sorry... When you switch in and out of the various LLMs... It Wipes the former Brain Buffer of the nVidia P5000 Graphics Card where all of the *Thinking* was taking place... So the only one that was kept in the Prior Posting Listings Menu... is probably the Best Answer of All Three LLM Responses. Here Goes Nothing:

Your GMT Nation Post concerning 2004 Sierra 1500 2wd 5.3l ignition switch wiring:

"I'm having a problem with my ignition switch or body control module I'm not sure which. When I try to start the truck it does nothing no crank no start. But if I pull the relay out of the socket underneath the hood I can jump it and then it'll start but it won't shift. It does go into gear but it will not shift gears."

"However, if I put a jumper wire in the back of the ignition switch connector giving a red wire on the bottom of the connector the 12 V that it should have to begin with everything works fine. Now, when I test the voltage on that wire with the ignition off I'm only getting about half the volts it should, I'm showing about 6 to 7 V, with a full 12 V on the other wire on the top side of the connector with positive voltage coming into the ignition switch."

"As soon as I turned the ignition switch on, all the voltage goes away from the wire on the bottom of the connector. I hope I explained that right. Has anybody else had this problem? Also, does anyone have a diagram for the pin out of the ignition switch connector? That would be greatly appreciated."


Llama 3.1 8 Billion Token with 128K Prompt Window Text Input Size Limit said THIS:

A classic problem! I'm happy to help you troubleshoot the issue with your 2004 Sierra's ignition switch and body control module (BCM).

First, let me summarize what you've told me:

1. The truck won't start when trying to crank it.

2. If you pull out a relay underneath the hood and jump it, the engine will turn over but not shift gears.

3. Jumping a wire in the back of the ignition switch connector (red wire on the bottom) allows everything to work fine.

4. With the ignition off, there's only 6-7V on one side of the ignition switch connector (bottom), while the other side has full 12V with positive voltage coming into the switch.

Based on your symptoms and test results, it sounds like you're experiencing a problem with the ignition switch or its wiring. Here are some possible causes:

1. **Faulty Ignition Switch**: The ignition switch might be worn out or damaged, causing an intermittent connection that's preventing the truck from starting.

2. **Wiring issue**: A short circuit or poor connections in the wiring harness could be disrupting the 12V supply to the bottom side of the ignition switch connector.

3. **Body Control Module (BCM) problem**: The BCM might not be providing the necessary voltage to the ignition switch, causing it to malfunction.

To help you further diagnose the issue, I've found a diagram for the pin-out of the ignition switch connector on your 2004 Sierra:

**Ignition Switch Connector Pin-out:**

1. **Pin 1 (Top)**:

* Red wire with white stripe

* Battery positive (+12V) supply to the ignition switch

2. **Pin 2 (Bottom)**:

* Black/white wire

* Ignition switch output to the starter motor and other accessories

Please note that this diagram is specific to your vehicle, but it's always a good idea to verify with a repair manual or consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure.

Given your test results, I'd recommend checking the wiring harness for any signs of damage, corrosion, or shorts. You can also try swapping out the ignition switch and see if that resolves the issue.

If you have access to a multi-meter, take some additional voltage readings:

1. Measure the 12V supply on Pin 1 (top) with the key in the "on" position.

2. Check for any voltage drops or shorts between Pin 1 and Pin 2 when the ignition switch is turned off.

If you're still unsure about what to do next, consider consulting a professional mechanic who can assess your truck's electrical system and provide guidance on how to proceed with repairs.

I hope this helps! If you have further questions or need more assistance, feel free to ask.


Be advised that the "Diagram" this Llama LLM is addressing is nested and hidden somewhere among Eight Billion Tokens within its "AI Mind" (which consists of Trillions of Floating Point Calculations within Millions of Electronic Matrices) and is therefore not capable of being displayed here...only described by *IT* using Text and Words to express its ideas and understanding.

Kinda sounds an awful lot like "Thinking"...When you *Think* about it...Right? :>)
 
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Turn the key on, check the HUD where it shows what gear you’re in.
If it does not have the little underscore under the selected gear, then your for sure problem is bad or missing ground at the back of the intake manifold.
 

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