Not ALL "No Crank - No Start" conditions devolving in GM and GMC Trucks end up being caused by a "Bad Battery", a "Bad Ground" or by having a "Bad Ignition Switch". In most cases, this investigation begins by using a Thoughtful, Systematic Way of Diagnosing by first reading and accurately interpreting a GM OEM Starting Circuit Wiring Diagram.
Then it follows on, like Carts to Horses that we should use a DMM and an AMP Clamp along with a Wired Set of 5 Amp Test Bulbs, and a Lighted Probe to gradually narrow down "The B+ Power Culprit". Ivan from Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics calls this procedure "Chasing the Power Feed Using The By-Pass Method".
In THIS special situation... the Problem turned out to have a Very DIFFERENT Cause and Origin. Nonetheless... It yielded itself in the end to a Proper Diagnostic Approach, assisted with the use of some Very Basic Tools. Many Thanks to "Crazy Ivan" The Man from PHAD for this Excellent and Instructive Video Contribution:
Then it follows on, like Carts to Horses that we should use a DMM and an AMP Clamp along with a Wired Set of 5 Amp Test Bulbs, and a Lighted Probe to gradually narrow down "The B+ Power Culprit". Ivan from Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics calls this procedure "Chasing the Power Feed Using The By-Pass Method".
In THIS special situation... the Problem turned out to have a Very DIFFERENT Cause and Origin. Nonetheless... It yielded itself in the end to a Proper Diagnostic Approach, assisted with the use of some Very Basic Tools. Many Thanks to "Crazy Ivan" The Man from PHAD for this Excellent and Instructive Video Contribution: