2002 impala security light

kickass audio

Original poster
Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Hey everyone! I know this forum is geared toward the GMT platform but I wanted to ask on here if anyone has experience or knowledge to share on an issue my mom's lovely heap of a car is facing. With her car, she has an aftermarket remote start installed with a vats2/passlock bypass module installed. She had the recall on her car for where the ignition switch could move from the on position to ACC and make it so the airbags fail to deploy in an accident. GM did the bullshit fix of adding a plastic insert into the key where the rings go so it centers the key ring instead of letting it move side to side and that was it. I noticed that if I leave the vats/passlock bypass module connected to her car and you turn the key to the on position, the security light will come on with the battery light to let you know the battery is not charging (since the engine is not running) and if I start it, the security light goes out and everything runs as normal. If I disconnect the vats/passlock bypass module and turn the key to the on position, it will give the same symptoms of the security light on with the battery light in the DIC. If I try to start the car with the bypass module disconnected, it will not crank but the fuel pump does engage.

I tried to perform a security relearn by turning the key to start and leaving it in the run position until the security message stops showing but it never goes away. I am using the OEM keys that came with the car as well as a new key that the dealer made for me the other day free of charge with the recall "fix". I waited 30 minutes for the security message to go away so I could turn the key off and try to start it again 2 more times to relearn the security system but it doesn't do crap.

I replaced the ignition switch assembly on the car today since hers was so messed up that if I take the key and wiggle it, the radio would go to "locked" and the car would not start and some accessories would not work. It was also very loose when you wiggle the key in the lock. While I was in there replacing the switch, I noticed the wires for the ignition switch were exposed a bit where the shop who installed the remote start put in crappy t-taps and the wire jacket was pulled open so it was more than likely hitting the metal panel of the dash to short it out.

Currently I have it where the bypass module is connected and the remote start and key work just fine in the car but if I turn the key to ON and do not crank it, the security message is showing.

Does anyone have ideas on what to try with the security to relearn the system without pulling money out of my .... and going to the dealer for it to get ripped off?

Final note: her car has intermittent codes of p1626 (Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Lost) and u1064 (Loss of Communications with DIM) that would come up before I replaced the ignition switch. They have not come back today after I replaced the switch but with how this car is, who knows if it will come back or not.
 

kickass audio

Original poster
Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Yes sir, I completely removed all the components of the remote start and still no change in getting the stupid security thing to time out during the alleged relearn procedure.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,420
Delmarva
IIRC the pcm has to have back to back message failures from the bcm to set the p1626. So if the message is lost when the key is first turned on, the security light would stay on, but if it gets the message during cranking, the light would turn off and not set a code.

Did they crappy tap the flimsy passlock wires?

-edit I just saw your newer post-

Is anything else body wise not working like drls or power locks?

If p1626 and u1064 are back now with the r/s completely removed (and passlock sensor wires ok) then I would test the bcm.

At the Body Control Module, check for power on the following pins on the 24 pin Pink connector. Orange wire at pin A3 and Purple wire at pin A12.

On 24 pin Gray connector, Orange wires at pin A1 and A4 along with Pink wire at pin A10.

On 16 pin Gray connector check the Yellow wire at pin A5.

Verify grounds at pins A6, A7 and B7. These are all Black wires on the 24 pin Pink connector. Also on the 24 pin Gray connector, check Black/White wire at pin B5.
 

kickass audio

Original poster
Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
It is hard to say if these codes will come back after replacing the ignition switch though. The ignition switch was pretty loose and if you wiggle it, random accessories like the radio (it would just say locked and not do crap), windows, instrument panel would not work. I looked at the BCM under the dash as there were posts online I found about possible corrosion on some of the leads and I couldn't get a good view of the pins on the BCM itself since it is in such a dumb spot that I can't see crap on it. I looked at the female pins on the connectors that go into the BCM and they all look good. No corrosion or hot spots like we see when our blower motor resistors start to crap out and get too hot. The ignition switch had a good amount of black residue at the contact points and probably could have just been cleaned off and placed back in but the amount of play it had is what triggered me into buying a whole new switch for it.

The keys I am not sure if they have a transponder in them. They are not like the ones dodge has where you just stick it in and go, they are physical keys you can use to open the doors and trunk with. The copy keys we had made have absolutely nothing on them. The OEM keys have the normal size head like you would find on our GMT platform and i'm not sure if there is a tiny transponder in the head of the key and I am not about to carve one open to find out. haha. The car is too new for the old school resistor chip in the key.

May03: with the wires you want me to probe, are there any wire colors that are shared on the same connector? The reason I ask is since I cannot see that well under the dash where the BCM is, I can see the wire colors and just use my little wire piercing probe to get on them and test the power and ground with my o-scope.
 

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