2002 Envoy Mode Door Actuator Replacement

steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
Not the easiest job I've done but not impossible.
I thought I'd post my experience etc to benefit others who attempt it.

The part I used to replace it was a doorman 604-115
This is for the door that is at the top of the system on the drivers side.
You don't need to remove the entire dash to do this although it probably is much easier that way.

Before doing anything I removed the fuse (HVAC B) located under the rear seat behind the driver

I removed all the plastic panels on the driver side below the speedo.
There is a metal shield held in by (4) 10 mm nuts that surrounds the steering column.
To the right next to the center column is a triangular shaped bracket that has to be removed.
It is fastened from behind on the very right by two bolts that are hidden and impossible to reach.
On the side the can see, there are two 1/2" nuts that are tack-welded to the part.
Get your 1/2 deep 3/8 drive socket and a short ext on them and crack the welds loose and remove them. (You won't be putting them back unless you try to use some sort of speed nut and send the bolts in from the front)

OK, the bracket is loose but it is trapped by a piece of plastic that secures the dash knee cover.
At this point you can try to get the bracket off by prying it over the studs, hoping the plastic will bend enough (It did'nt for me) or you can be proactive and cut it at the top an try bending it to the right which should give you enough room (probably what I should have done)

Now that you have the bracket removed, you also need to remove the duct for the driver side floor heat that runs from the center to the left.
Be careful there is a sensor in the back of the duct, I pulled the duct loose and the pushed it down and out of the way leaving the sensor connected, there is enough room to do this.

Your almost there! The actuator is located behind the bracket that has the studs which held the shield and the triangle bracket.
It is secured by two screws, use a 7/32 or 5.5 MM deep socket to remove the uppermost one.
The hard one is the one just behind the bracket, you cant get a socket wrench on it but the 7/32 small socket by it self will fit.
It is not very tight, I was able to remove it using use my fingers turning the socket. People with big fingers are not going to be able to do this.

Now that the screws are out you have to remove the actuator from the shaft.
Here is where a special tool from GM or some homemade "C" shaped press is used to get it off the shaft.
I was told the shaft is glued to the actuator, mine was not.

Well I didn't use the tools but I used a small pry bar which I use for small nails and carefully pried it loose, it came apart very easily using the long curved part of the tool.
View attachment 20170

Installation of the new actuator:

The new part came with the drive gear centered, no problem, just move the stud on the door shaft to allow for it to fit in the actuator.
The stud on the mode door has flats on two sides and also has a piece about 1/2 long that extends beyond. This is the part that fits the shaft tightly into a hole that has small teeth. I assume this is take the slop out and for more precise drive of the door flap. This is the connection you are trying to release when you pry it apart.

Once you have it lined, up reverse the disassemble procedure give the new actuator a good push at the drive area to make sure it seats well. Securing the screws will help to fully seated the shaft in the actuator.

A good drawing of the entire AssemblyView attachment 20173

Important:
When you re install the fuse, turn the ignition key to the "on" position and leave it here for about 40 seconds before starting the vehicle. This allows actuator to re-calibrate.

Hope this helps!
 

Attachments

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  • Envoy Mode door location.jpg
    Envoy Mode door location.jpg
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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
What a FANTASTIC and helpful first post! Welcome to the NEW yet FAMILIAR GMT360 community!
 

woody79

Member
Dec 3, 2011
351
Great write up :thumbsup:

Welcome to the community.
 

steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
Great new forum!
Thanks to all for the welcome!
Looking forward to reading and posting here in the future.
 

harveyfam2001

Member
Aug 24, 2012
42
I'm in the middle of doing this and I have my bro in law helping as he is skinnier than me. :smile:

I was able to get the lower dash apart and did confirm it was the mode actuator that is clicking. We got it out but really had to force it. My brother in law ended up breaking the white part off the old one to get the black housing off. He immediately looked at the new one and said the gear is a lot larger on the old one than the new one.

Here is a picture of the housing (old on left) and new part I had ordered on the right. The part numbers don't match up and I don't see the old part number on the diagram. Did I indeed order the wrong part??
 

Attachments

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    GMC Envoy Actuator.jpg
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harveyfam2001

Member
Aug 24, 2012
42
Local dealer was useless with this. They couldn't find the part number even on the old part. I was told all of those numbers were manufacturers part numbers.

I did find a search online where the guy posted (I think this was on the OS actually) the part number of 52489426 and the dealer told him the part number changed to 89018539. Can anyone confirm this before I go and order a new part? My Envoy still has the lower dash apart and I really would like to get it back together soon as this is my wife's vehicle. :smile:
 

garciarf

Member
Dec 3, 2011
17
Looks pretty similar, I think GM changed some parts numbers a few years back (I remember there are 2 P/N for the Tahoe Z71 rear springs and they're the same).

Is there a way to manually move the actuator to one position and then disconnect it? I think I'll need to change my actuator but I'd definitely like to have A/C blowing through the dash this weekend. And yes, my problem is related to a battery change (big surprise).
 

garciarf

Member
Dec 3, 2011
17
Harvey,

Not sure if this answers your question, but Checker's lists 2 different Dorman P/Ns for that actuator, 604-115 for 2002s and 604-119 for most other years, knowing that there were minor changes throughout the years, it is entirely possible that you have a part for a different year, or it is entirely possible the part is exactly the same.




Felipe
 

Kujo929

Member
Aug 18, 2012
3
I'm in the middle of this repair now and was able to remove and install the actuator without removing the triangle mount and just pulling the air duct down. Not ideal and you have to mount the actuator and screws by feel but it can be done.

My issue at the moment is getting the actuator in the correct position to grab the door arm. Mine was not correct as it arrived and had to be pulled off again.
 

garciarf

Member
Dec 3, 2011
17
The screw that is behind the actuator, did you remove it just by hand with the socket?

Also, did you just pull the air duct down? or did you completely wrestle it out of the dash?

I was able to get mine slightly loose (one screw) before giving up at 11pm, I'll try again when the weather gets better, and I could feel it shaking. My actuator is stuck in the defrost/floor position, so depending on how my new actuator (or if I can just fix the one I have) I will have to re adjust the dashboard side of the actuator.
 

Kujo929

Member
Aug 18, 2012
3
Mine only had 2 screws. One on each side in the tabs. I used a micro driver but mostly just used the socket with the extension in my hand to turn the screws out. Again this is all by feel as I can only get my left arm up there.

As for the vent I pulled it out on the right side and just lowered it down and left it connected on the left side. Mine did not have any sensors on it. ( at least not that I could find). Mine is a 2006 and does not have auto temp controls.
 

tri2sli

Member
Oct 2, 2012
1
I just changed my mode actuator on my 2002 Envoy. Just go to Lowes or Home Depot and in their electrical department find what is called a beam clamp and modify it to fit over your new actuator where it will go over the back side sleeve using a grinder on metal cutting tool and then straighten the bolt by laying a 3/4 socket inside of the clamp and tighting it so this will flex the tool so the bolt will go straight into the actuator shaft opening. Cost me 89 cents and about 15 minutes to make this tool instead of the $60 (used on Ebay) - $160 (from GM). Slide the tool over your old actuater after removing the 2 screws and use it to pull it off. Like everyone has said. You only need this for the 2002. Good luck.:yes:
 

Raditude

Member
Oct 6, 2012
22
Hello everybody, thank you for the help.


I currently have my Envoy apart. I looked up into it, and turned the key, and adjusted the HVAC. The Mode Door Actuator seems to be working, but the Driver Heat Door Actuator is not turning.

I have removed one of the bolts for it, but can't seem to get the motor out. It appears there is another bolt that I can't get to. Does anyone have any suggestions?





Also, is there any difference between the Mode Door Actuator and the Driver Heat Door Actuator?

Dorman 604-111 and Dorman 604-115 look the same, except one has a metal knob and the other has a plastic knob.

Dorman 604-115 is $54 and Dorman 604-111 is $150
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I can see the more expensive Dorman unit for under $100 on Ebay and Amazon, but honestly haven't done the research to know how it fits into the collection of part numbers I always post. As to getting to the screw, you own the vehicle, so you can cut or bend any part of the dash support sheet metal you need to get to it. The passenger side temp actuator is famous for having a strut in the way.
 

harveyfam2001

Member
Aug 24, 2012
42
Mine gets a trip to the dealer for this. When removing the actuator I did not have the special tool and I ended up breaking the plastic from the actuator to the cam gear housing. I have the replacement part but there's one screw left holding the actuator cam housing and you can't remove it without removing the entire dash. :sadcry:
 

MJRBrooks

Member
Mar 26, 2012
20
Great write up. I did the small cut as recommended and was able to get my hand up in there... This entire project was awful to tackle, but it's definitely doable with the right amount of patience.... Which is quite a bit
 

mrjean

Member
Jul 15, 2012
110
kinda having an issue here with some actuator. i bought the car a month ago. its a 2002 TB LT EXT 212k miles and performing a slew of things (upper/lower control arms with lower ball joints, all rotors, all brakes, sway bar links/bushings, shocks), as well as a few sensors (both o2, camshaft sensor, ambient temp, vent solenoid, purge solenoid/valve)

first issue...
1) could someone explain if the defrost and mode actuator are the same or different?
1a) the diagram floating around here is pretty explanatory in regards to most actuators. the passenger temp, driver temp, recirculate actuator (which im guessing manages the recirculated air flow), floor/vent actuator and defrost (which SHOULD be the front windshield air flow)


2) reason why i as is because i think my defrost actuator might be shot as i get no air whatsoever up there on heat or ac (i actually get residual air coming out when i put it to windshield defrost/defog on max level). i do get good flow on the front vents (pass/driver), recirculated and my floor vents. now, since i need to recharge the ac (still havent gotten the ac system checked out) im not sure if the warmer air coming out the vents is due to no/low freon. but anywho.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
mrjean said:
1) could someone explain if the defrost and mode actuator are the same or different?
The "mode" actuator is short for "airflow mode" and it's the one that chooses whether your air goes to the dash vents or the footwells. The defrost actuator selects the major portion of the airflow to go to the windshield.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Thanks for bumping this. My actuator started clicking at vehicle start sometimes (not always). It has had a clunk/snap noise when moving off of vent mode for months, I guess it is just getting worse. Looks like I have a lot of fun ahead of me :worried:

What bothers me is the mention that 2002 might have a different part than other years. Figures. First year models :hahano:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Sparky said:
First year models :hahano:
With a rushed development schedule. There are buggered radios, HVAC actuators, tie rod ends, and a couple of other systems that couldn't be properly designed and tested before roll-out. Not to mention the systems that were buggered, and NEVER redesigned even though they were insanely done in the first place, like the front axle actuator, PVC system, and front differential oil pan mount.
 

ylab

Member
Dec 6, 2011
19
Having had to replace my mode door today, after having the dreaded clicking with the a/c on earlier in the week, the engineer who designed it should be forced to replace a few w/o the magic tool. I tried to make that tool from the beam clamp, the SOB was too small after spending an hour grinding and grinding. All told, I must have spent 5 hours on the job today.....took the center stack out, part of the top, trying to gain access to get a better angle to pry with. - Just for anyone contemplating, don't bother, there is no other direct access to that damn part. I'm an '02, so the part is different and either pressed on or glued. Finally just pried the cr@p out of it with a small pry bar, while tugging on the top with the fingers of my other hand. Luckily the shaft didn't break! Yeah for small favors.

So nice to not have the system clicking and groaning. Oddly, my onstar light would turn from green to red after all the clicking.....what the hell does the onstar have to do with the climate control?! To my knowledge it turns read when the onstar circuitry (long dead, mine is analog) cannot communicate with the airbags. Talk about a freaky wiring system.
 

hirving

Member
Jul 16, 2013
1
I have a 2004 GMC Envoy and just removed my mode actuator per the instructions below which are very good. The actuator basically fell out once I removed the screws. I'm ready for installation but am somewhat unclear how to line up the gears properly and can't seem to get the new actuator seated properly. Any further hints would be appreciated.


steveO said:
Not the easiest job I've done but not impossible.

I thought I'd post my experience etc to benefit others who attempt it.

The part I used to replace it was a doorman 604-115
This is for the door that is at the top of the system on the drivers side.
You don't need to remove the entire dash to do this although it probably is much easier that way.

Before doing anything I removed the fuse (HVAC B) located under the rear seat behind the driver

I removed all the plastic panels on the driver side below the speedo.
There is a metal shield held in by (4) 10 mm nuts that surrounds the steering column.
To the right next to the center column is a triangular shaped bracket that has to be removed.
It is fastened from behind on the very right by two bolts that are hidden and impossible to reach.
On the side the can see, there are two 1/2" nuts that are tack-welded to the part.
Get your 1/2 deep 3/8 drive socket and a short ext on them and crack the welds loose and remove them. (You won't be putting them back unless you try to use some sort of speed nut and send the bolts in from the front)

OK, the bracket is loose but it is trapped by a piece of plastic that secures the dash knee cover.
At this point you can try to get the bracket off by prying it over the studs, hoping the plastic will bend enough (It did'nt for me) or you can be proactive and cut it at the top an try bending it to the right which should give you enough room (probably what I should have done)

Now that you have the bracket removed, you also need to remove the duct for the driver side floor heat that runs from the center to the left.
Be careful there is a sensor in the back of the duct, I pulled the duct loose and the pushed it down and out of the way leaving the sensor connected, there is enough room to do this.

Your almost there! The actuator is located behind the bracket that has the studs which held the shield and the triangle bracket.
It is secured by two screws, use a 7/32 or 5.5 MM deep socket to remove the uppermost one.
The hard one is the one just behind the bracket, you cant get a socket wrench on it but the 7/32 small socket by it self will fit.
It is not very tight, I was able to remove it using use my fingers turning the socket. People with big fingers are not going to be able to do this.

Now that the screws are out you have to remove the actuator from the shaft.
Here is where a special tool from GM or some homemade "C" shaped press is used to get it off the shaft.
I was told the shaft is glued to the actuator, mine was not.

Well I didn't use the tools but I used a small pry bar which I use for small nails and carefully pried it loose, it came apart very easily using the long curved part of the tool.
View attachment 5815

Installation of the new actuator:

The new part came with the drive gear centered, no problem, just move the stud on the door shaft to allow for it to fit in the actuator.
The stud on the mode door has flats on two sides and also has a piece about 1/2 long that extends beyond. This is the part that fits the shaft tightly into a hole that has small teeth. I assume this is take the slop out and for more precise drive of the door flap. This is the connection you are trying to release when you pry it apart.

Once you have it lined, up reverse the disassemble procedure give the new actuator a good push at the drive area to make sure it seats well. Securing the screws will help to fully seated the shaft in the actuator.

A good drawing of the entire AssemblyView attachment 5818

Important:
When you re install the fuse, turn the ignition key to the "on" position and leave it here for about 40 seconds before starting the vehicle. This allows actuator to re-calibrate.

Hope this helps!
 

kmhull985

Member
Sep 27, 2013
1
I'm pretty positive this is my a/c's issue right, I just want to be sure before buying the part. My A/V stopped blowing through the front and rear top vents yesterday, out of the blue. However, since we purchased the vehicle, there has always been a clapping noise when switching to vent mode. Is this a clue that I'm on the right track in replacing this part? Since it stopped working yesterday, the clapping continues for a good 3-5 min after running the car. If it's been running for 10+ min, it won't clap anymore but will still continue to not blow.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Sounds about right to me. Air won't go through requested vents, clattering noise when starting the vehicle or trying to change modes... yup.

Still haven't done mine. Project for a little later after I get my current project done.
 

jheveran

Member
Aug 7, 2013
1
the roadie said:
That's in a slightly different spot:

allactuators-orig.jpg

I have been using your threads for along time thank you for the info and time you have put into this site and others I have a clicking noise coming from the center console on a 2002 gmc envoy xl slt it is the actuator for the floor vent flap for the rear seats I have pulled it apart and can't find the part online the number it has on it are I believe the first one I the gm part number 15210103 003859 AH08022002
 

dcbenvoy

Member
Jan 28, 2012
51
I have been fighting this problem forever. I started with directions form the other site. In that post he says to set the actuator at 1 oclock. I couldn't get mine to move with out taking the housing apart.

I assume that was my first mistake and I was doomed to fail from that point on.

This post doesn't mention that, so I cant figure out how to line it up right. I have asked 2 different mechanics 3 times and they never have fixed it. They tell me I need a new actuator and charge $600 to install and new one.

I got frustrated today and tried again. It is closer to blowing out the floor than ever before but not good enough because the dash vents are still blowing a little when you select floor only. I am tempted to just order another actuator and try one last time. It is 12 degrees here and it is surprisingly uncomfortable with no heat on your feet.

I don't recall having to pry mine off originally. But from the original post it sound like it should press in to be in the right spot.

Can anyone offer some insight?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Disassembling an actuator carries a HUGE risk of messing up the relationship between the gear train and the blue position feedback sensor (potentiometer). It took me 4-5 tries and I figured out how the system works while I did it. For most folks, of the actuator needs to be rotated to reinstall, some members just plug it in, start the recalibration process while the actuator's in midair, and pull the plug when it's in the desired position. This also is a risky process since the actuators aren't meant to be powered up in midair without the mechanical constraint of the flap door shaft. Other, more successful members move the flap door shaft to a position that will engage with the actuator the way it comes out of the box.

Is buying a new actuator out of the question? Even if it gives you the clues how to disassemble yours and set the potentiometer/gear train relationship properly?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Have you tried a full recalibration?

I left the actuator in the position it was in when I bought it, and just rotated the door by hand until I could fit the actuator onto it. I did all this with the battery disconnected. Then I connected the battery and turned the key to on (but not start) for a couple minutes. I could hear the actuators all moving to full swing both directions as they calibrated themselves.
 

dcbenvoy

Member
Jan 28, 2012
51
Buying a new one is certainly not out of the question. I wanted to confirm that I had indeed screwed up. :redface:

I also can easily manipulate the door flap; I'm just not convinced I get how to line them up correctly. I assume you have to get it spot on or does the calibration process take up the slop so to speak?

I really appreciate the help.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
dcbenvoy said:
Buying a new one is certainly not out of the question. I wanted to confirm that I had indeed screwed up. :redface:

I also can easily manipulate the door flap; I'm just not convinced I get how to line them up correctly. I assume you have to get it spot on or does the calibration process take up the slop so to speak?

I really appreciate the help.

If you opened the actuator itself I have no idea how to realign it internally (or if that actually matters or not).

If you look at the actuator it can only go on the door one way. There is the splined part, true, but it has a flat-sided section that cannot go on the door any other way. Really can't mess that part up without forcing it really hard and breaking a bunch of plastic :tongue:

$_57.JPG
 

dcbenvoy

Member
Jan 28, 2012
51
Sparky, the one I am replacing is the one with the white gear sticking out the back. I'm pretty sure I did the right one.

I'm pretty sure by taking the thing apart and misunderstanding the post for the other site I messed up the limits of the actuator. Maybe with a new one I'll have better success.
 

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