$1700 A/C quote to replace the evaporator under the dash

[6716]

Is that crazy? It is said to be a 10-hour job. I don't have tons of time to do it myself and it is getting hot out there.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[budwich]

that's if you are lucky (10 hours). Take a look at this thread with pictures to look at what "they" are up against.

How To: Replace the Heater Core (Without Removing the Whole HVAC Box)

In my research I found a thread on the OS detailing this process by cutting the bottom cover off, but all the useful bits (pictures) were hosted on Photobucket, so the thread was useless. For anyone who wants to tackle this job on their own, there's no need for an A/C machine or removing...

gmtnation.com

 

[Mooseman]

That sounds about right. I did it and took about that long or longer. When I had it all out, it looked like a bomb went off. I think I used this thread from the OS for info.

The question is, are they CERTAIN it's the evaporator? Did they trace it with a leak detector and it was coming out the condensation drip tube? That's how I confirmed it.

But damn, $1700?

 

[6716]

I am fairly certain it is the evaporator. I have been chasing this leak for a few years, but the charges have been holding for a couple of years at a time, until now, when they don't hold for more than 3 days. First time years back I had it in they couldn't find anything with dye so said it might be the evaporator. This new shop (I moved) replaced the dryer two weeks ago (which might have indeed been leaking, they did show me the dye on the bottom of it) and now say they put a sniffer on it and it is the evaporator. Can't find any dye anywhere else.

Maybe I will shop quotes. Looking at the procedure I think my ADD would blow up half way through. I stuggle with attention to detail and keeping track of lots of little things. I feel like I would end up with the truck in pieces for a long time.

Thanks

 

[gmcman]

did they trace it with a leak detector and it was coming out the condensation drip tube

^^^This^^^

You will see the dye coming from the drip tube. Any funky odors from the HVAC vents?

The condenser is also susceptible to leaks from road debris, also check the fittings on the rear of the compressor and the clutch.

I'm not trying to sound negative, and point fingers, but just giving you some food for thought just so you have crossed all your T's.

Wording this carefully as there are many honest shops around....but I've seen and heard of many tricks to get a big job and having been through that I try to stay on top of things.

If a shop told me my evaporator was leaking, I would get a can of dye and run a bunch through the system. I would let it run for about 30 min and check all over the condenser coil, compressor fittings, high and low test ports, and if it came down to testing the evaporator, if you have the removable access panel behind the glovebox for a cabin filter, I would take a peek inside.

But what @Mooseman touched on, is I would absolutely need to see some dye on the ground or coming from the drip tube.

Just looking out, please keep us posted.

 

[Mooseman]

Dye isn't the end all, be all of A/C leaks. There would need to be A LOT of oil leakage to allow it to leak out the drip tube, which would not happen with a slow leak. And oil leakage would only happen if the system is running.

I bought this leak detector years ago (it was $50 at the time) before tearing into my dash to confirm the leak and go over the whole system. It also detected a small leak at a seal that didn't have any oil residue around it. It's very sensitive.

Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector

Amazing deals on this Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

There is a cheaper one on Amazon. I can't vouch on how good it is but reviews rate it pretty high.

Amazon.com: Elitech WJL-6000 Freon Leak Detector Halogen Leak Detector Refrigerant Gas HVAC R22 R410A R134A R1234YF CFCs HCFCs HFCs Detector High Accuracy: Automotive

Amazon.com: Elitech WJL-6000 Freon Leak Detector Halogen Leak Detector Refrigerant Gas HVAC R22 R410A R134A R1234YF CFCs HCFCs HFCs Detector High Accuracy: Automotive

www.amazon.com

All you'd need to do is put some refrigerant in, just one can would do, and probe at the drip tube as well as all areas. Other areas to check are the compressor, all connection points, hose crimps and all over the condenser. Don't run the engine or A/C system as the fan would blow any leaking gas all over the place.

 

[gmcman]

I agree Mooseman, I guess I was assuming it would show in the tube if its leaking down every 3 days.

The electronic one you linked looks like a nice Memorial Day gift for the toolbox.

 

[6716]

Yeah getting the tool is a good tip.

Just for reference ... the dealership only quoted me $1400 for the same work. I think I might be at the wrong shop.

 

[Mooseman]

If a dealer is charging less, that's a definite red flag for that other shop. Keep shopping. Find the leak yourself and shop for a shop for what you want done.

 

[6716]

I found a reputable shop that is coming in at $1200.

One place said "might as well get the heater core while you're in there."

Thoughts on the heater core add-on?

 

[budwich]

what ever / whom ever you choose, make sure you understand what exactly they will do / promise especially when the get most of your truck torn apart. "estimates" tend to go NORTH fast once they have you "hooked".

 

[gmcman]

I don't know who makes a quality heater core unit, but I would make sure it's the best I can get.

Have you tried contacting a radiator shop? Could be something they have seen on a regular basis and might be able to do it cheaper. Needless to say a warranty would be key.

 

[Mooseman]

Haven't heard of too many heater cores going bad, maybe one or two. I didn't replace mine when I replaced the evap and it lasted to its grave. Might not be a bad idea to replace it since the whole HVAC unit is being manhandled. It's a gamble for a few bucks. I'd stick with an ACDelco.

I'd still confirm it's the evap first.

 

[C-ya]

Not sure if the job has been done or not but here is my thought. I would do it if they are in there as that is the exact same process they would do to replace the heater core. It's kind of like doing a timing belt and not changing the timing belt driven water pump.

My heater core went out but I didn't get the evaporator replaced as it was leaking from the hoses to rear evap. Heater core was more important here in Michigan.

 

[Tankcruiser]

yea michigan colllldddd weather been there.....

 

[JayArr]

$1200 buys a lot of tools. You could buy the evaporator, a heater core, a gas detector, a vacuum pump and a set of AC gauges for that.

I replaced the heater core in my Blazer a couple of times, it required removing the seats, steering column and dash but I got it done in about one day the first time and 6 hours the second.

JayArr

 

[6716]

$1200 buys a lot of tools.

It would have to buy a lot of Adderall for me to finish this one. Attention span and attention to detail are not my strong points. I do a lot of work on the truck, but I didn't have the time, space, attention span, or willingness to do this repair in the heat.

Anyway, I negotiated the GM of the first shop down to $1200 from $1700. I used to be in sales, I know the reverse tactics. The shop is walking distance from my house, so they have that going for them.

I didn't get the sniffer tool to verify just because I was so super busy and wanted it done, so I rolled the dice and went for it. It definitely is holding pressure and continues to pump out cold air two weeks after the work got done, and before it would only hold a charge for 3 days.

So I think I am good here. Thanks all for your thoughts.