I'm a bit perplexed that my factory radio harness does not have red/ACC/12v in it, does anyone know if I need to find ACC somewhere in dash or if there is an ACC in the harness disguised by another color?
Iirc there should be a heavier gauge wire, that is the one you want. But I believe that it may be always hot and there is a trigger for switching it on and off that switches with key on. It has been a while.I'm a bit perplexed that my factory radio harness does not have red/ACC/12v in it, does anyone know if I need to find ACC somewhere in dash or if there is an ACC in the harness disguised by another color?
Just to be clear, I am using the RP5 GM11 adapter harness.There isn't one in the factory harness, that's why it's easier using an adapter harness when putting in an aftermarket radio. If you want to grab 12v switched power you need to get it from the wiring under the steering wheel, there's a switched 12v there...pink wire.
Is the only speaker that is making any sound with the factory radio installed the one in the driver's door? I read somewhere that another Chevy owner had the same problem - I think it was the amp - but the LS doesn't have an amp external from the head unit...was the head unit functioning through all four speakers before the Pioneer install?Ok, so I think nothing worked at first because the PAC adapter is a computer and it does not immediately work when you plug it in. It has to boot up and go through a software initiation of some kind. I am speculating.
Ok, so Im back tracking to find why 3 of my speakers are not working with the factory radio back. Once this is solved I can think about remaining issues with the new Pioneer HU.
I take out my wiring schematic in ENTERTAINMENT.pdf and on page 4, figure2 for the base model and the abbreviations for the wire colors are cryptic. Can anyone translate the color codes on page 4 ?
GY ? (gray ?)
D-GN ? (dark green ?)
L-GN ? (light green ?)
D-BU (dark blue ?)
@paul2005tb Honestly, it sounds to me like you've got a fried Bose amp in your TB. However, if you're certain you don't...I measured the resistance at the radio connector:
LF 4 ohms
RF 4 ohms (this is the only speaker that works)
LR - open circuit
RR - open circuit
I fear it is time to get the doors apart and further test the connections to the rear door speakers.
Just curious...the Android deck only used 4mA while pumping sound or while at low/no volume? I blew my harness while jamming and driving, not in the garage/service-bay at idle and taking mesurements...OK, I finally got around to installing the Android stereo that's been sitting on the shelf for the past six months and answer all the speculation about the ACC power.
I picked up 2 Scosche gm2000a boxes on clearance from wally mart. I figured if one was broken maybe the other was good. I was pleasantly surprised to find that both work fine. I tested the current draw on the ACC wire - 4ma when operating! That's right - it's not a typo!
So if your interface box says 3A max - you can't burn it out with your stereo if it draws a few milliamps like mine. Don't waste your time and effort on relays and extra wiring. The relay on the ACC line will draw more power than the radio
This is with an Android touch screen DVD navigation radio - plenty of power used for that.
My theory that the ACC is just a signal wire turns out to be correct and I think most newer radios are the same.
The 12v wire on the harness is pitifully thin - If you have a high powered stereo then you should run a separate wire from the BCM power for it. I'll leave mine on the original wire and see how it goes.
If you don't care about RAP and chimes, then there's no problem with running an ACC wire from the ignition harness - the tiny radio load won't cause any problems. If you do, then probably the gm2000a box at wally mart is the cheapest.
@paul2005tb Honestly, it sounds to me like you've got a fried Bose amp in your TB. However, if you're certain you don't...
My aftermarket installation culminated a very odd condition. All of my window regulator and motor assemblies are aftermarket replacements; as such, I'm rather sure there is a slight variation in their operation versus that of the OEM assemblies.
When I would roll the rear passenger window down, the bottom of the glass pane would catch the speaker wires of my Rockford Fosgate 1675 and pull the spade connectors loose - disconnecting my speaker...my resolution was to use wire ties to secure the speaker wire out of the way of the glass and I also applied extra pressure to the spades clips themselves so they require more force to connect and disconnect them. Those steps alleviated the problem.
So...are your windows pullings your speaker wires loose? It is a long shot, but it could happen, brother.
Thanks southsidesmoka, and Mooseman,It's up to you if you want to swap out the adapter or you could add an amp but then you'd probably have to upgrade the speakers as they might not be able to handle the amp's output. However, you could also connect the speakers directly to the HU's speaker output wires.