08 Trailblazer, front suspension question, what is this

[wormwood1978]

I was under my vehicle this monring finishing up changing the transmission fluid and filter when I found this. Couple questions

1) What is the broken part called
2) How driveable is my vehicle until I fix it
3) How difficult of a DIY task is this?
4) What would be my cost to fix it versus an Indy shop to fix it?

Good side and bad side pics

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/warrior1978/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/warrior1978/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg

 

[Gerbil21]

The broken part is called the sway bar end link, you should be able to drive just fine but be careful with turns don't take them to tight and/or to fast since the handling will be off.

It should be very easy to do if the nuts aren't too rusted then they should come right off just make sure to use some pb- blaster.

Do it yourself! it will be much cheaper, a kit will all the parts to replace both front end links cost $11.11, its a easy to do replacement and you will definitely save some money. if you want you can even replace the rear links too and/or the bushings aswell with the money saved


http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-545-1009B-Service-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B000CM1JUQ/ref=sr_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427635954&vehicle=2008-47-489-430--9-6-8---1-1-145-177-1-0&sr=1-22&ymm=2008%3Achevrolet%3Atrailblazer&keywords=sway+bar+links

also if you don't have amazon prime sign up for a free trial and get free two day shipping!
this may be your best choice, i searched but couldn't find them in stock in autozone or advance auto near your location.

 

[wormwood1978]

Appreciate the info. Gonna put troubleshooting my wife's equinox ABS sensor(s) on hold and try to tackle this sway bar end links swap first.

 

[wormwood1978]

How important is to do this in pairs?

 

[Gerbil21]

Appreciate the info. Gonna put troubleshooting my wife's equinox ABS sensor(s) on hold and try to tackle this sway bar end links swap first.

you welcome! also if there are codes or not and you have a android phone they you should use this app

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugePro&hl=en
there is also a free one that does alot
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugeLite

its the best obd app out there

 

[Gerbil21]

How important is to do this in pairs?

you could do just one for now if the other one is still good but do check the other one and make shure its not on the verge of snapping aswell. when i searched it showed that a Advance auto next to you had one in stock for $8 so you could do that but it dosent really save money. but it will be done today, up to you. like i said driving with it like that isnt recommended but it can be done just dont drive it like usual and be careful and only do so if you have to

 

[wormwood1978]

you could do just one for now if the other one is still good but do check the other one and make shure its not on the verge of snapping aswell. when i searched it showed that a Advance auto next to you had one in stock for $8 so you could do that but it dosent really save money. but it will be done today, up to you. like i said driving with it like that isnt recommended but it can be done just dont drive it like usual and be careful and only do so if you have to

Is this what I should be looking at:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-sway-bar-link-kit-k6629/20516678-P?searchTerm=sway+bar+link+kit

 

[Gerbil21]

Is this what I should be looking at:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-sway-bar-link-kit-k6629/20516678-P?searchTerm=sway+bar+link+kit

yup thats it

 

[wormwood1978]

Gerbil, thanks for getting me squared away.

Just finished up the job. Opted to do just the one today as AAP only had one kit in stock. Plus I wanted to make sure I was capable of doing it.

Overall it get went pretty good and I got the job done. However, it did take a little longer than I expected. I had to cut the old one out as it was bent and I could not get it back through the hole. Ended up needing three Harbor Freight reciprocal blades to cut through it (note to self, probably should upgrade from HF blades). Once out, it was extremely tight between the sway bar and the control arm. I had to use the jack, a block of wood and a pry bar to create enough space to get the components in. Once I released the tension, I had barely enough thread on the bolt to get the top nut down. I tightening the nut until it would not tighten anymore.

So glad its above freezing and I didn't freeze my ass off

 

[wormwood1978]

you welcome! also if there are codes or not and you have a android phone they you should use this app

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugePro&hl=en
there is also a free one that does alot
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugeLite

its the best obd app out there

I have a code reader that does ABS, no codes. The problem has been of an off the past couple days. I just finished power washing the backside of the wheels (that time of year, melt, mud etcc). If the problem comes back, I'm going to try to use my multimeter on the front abs sensors, and may have to do some cleaning. If its not the snowblower, its the Equinox, not that, its the Trailblazer.

 

[Gerbil21]

Gerbil, thanks for getting me squared away.

Just finished up the job. Opted to do just the one today as AAP only had one kit in stock. Plus I wanted to make sure I was capable of doing it.

Overall it get went pretty good and I got the job done. However, it did take a little longer than I expected. I had to cut the old one out as it was bent and I could not get it back through the hole. Ended up needing three Harbor Freight reciprocal blades to cut through it (note to self, probably should upgrade from HF blades). Once out, it was extremely tight between the sway bar and the control arm. I had to use the jack, a block of wood and a pry bar to create enough space to get the components in. Once I released the tension, I had barely enough thread on the bolt to get the top nut down. I tightening the nut until it would not tighten anymore.

So glad its above freezing and I didn't freeze my ass off

That's great that it all worked out, and yea sometimes they can really get stuck unfortunately you had to find out first hand but you got it. Also you can check pep boys for your style end links they have them in kits that are universal aap may have them too check there performance parts section should be there. Also auto zone may have them as well

 

[D3vious]

Seems like I'm changing them every 2 years.
Too many rough country roads.

 

[Gerbil21]

Seems like I'm changing them every 2 years.
Too many rough country roads.

I'm sure back roads aren't too nice on suspensions but come to nyc people loose whole wheels lol

 

[D3vious]

Been there done that.
First time driving stick was Manhattan at rush hour in an 82 civic with a bad clutch!!

 

[Gerbil21]

Been there done that.
First time driving stick was Manhattan at rush hour in an 82 civic with a bad clutch!!

I've always wanted to drive a manual but not in nyc lol . I've driven a jeep that missed and overheated in Brooklyn and it seems that all traffic and lights are against you, I've also driven a blazer with no brakes and a sticking e-brake that screeched bad and it sucked.

 

[wormwood1978]

Yeah for me, found the other front end sway bar end link snapped off. I really was going to replace them in pairs, just had not gotten to it yet. Looks like I will for sure now!

 

[Gerbil21]

Yeah for me, found the other front end sway bar end link snapped off. I really was going to replace them in pairs, just had not gotten to it yet. Looks like I will for sure now!

Might as well do the bushing too and make it handle better

 

[wormwood1978]

Hope to do the replacement today as I'm waiting for AAP to get the kit in.

Here is my question. I had one broken end link and what I thought was still a good end link. Replaced the bad, not the good. The good but old, now is snapped. After replacing the first bad one, drove the vehicle around town maybe three times and my wife does report "launching it over a frost heave!!!).... did having a brand new end link and one older one put more stress on the old one causing it too to snap, was it purely a coincidence or was it because my wife was not nice to the TB that the old end link snapped a few days after replacing its brother?

 

[coolasice]

being in maine I would count it as corrosion on the old one weakening it.. I had to replace both of mine due to the bushings cracking and falling apart, looked like one of my links was replaced before i bought the truck.

 

[DAlastDON]

I have been hearing a clank from the front drivers wheel when driving down gravel roads for the past month. Did not know what it was until i hit a pot hole earlier on my way out to the lake. Heard something metal come loose and seen it in the road in my rear view. Went back and picked it up and sure enough it was the end link. I will get a set from a brick and motar store and get replaced this weekend. For now im fishing. Caught four catfish so far.

 

[DAlastDON]

Replaced the end links on both sides just now. When tightening them down, all four bushings appear to be seated in the sway bar and lower control arm. It did not take much pressure to tighten the nut down and i believe i have run out of threads on the end link bolt. The amount of pressure to turn the nut got even less. I stopped turning at that point. Thread locking compound was used. Is this sufficient/normal?

 

[Gerbil21]

Replaced the end links on both sides just now. When tightening them down, all four bushings appear to be seated in the sway bar and lower control arm. It did not take much pressure to tighten the nut down and i believe i have run out of threads on the end link bolt. The amount of pressure to turn the nut got even less. I stopped turning at that point. Thread locking compound was used. Is this sufficient/normal?

I don't know how tight they are supposed to be but iirc the bushings are supposed to only squish some not flat but I'm not fully sure. You can check the torque specs in the technical manuals and just guess it if you don't have a torque wrench.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/index.php?/topic/361-Need-service-manuals?--Get-them-here!
Need service manuals? Get them here!

 

[DAlastDON]

Thanks for the response. They are slightly squished but nowhere near flat. I do not have a torque wrench and guessed at it. 17'# is was the fsm said. I know what 10'# feels like and what i applied was not much more than that. I got the vmware fsm already. Very handy with the electrical stuff i have tinkered with.

In addition to the thread locking compound i went ahead and put on a second nut to tighten down against the first. It should not go anywhere.

The rubber sleeve between the the stabilizer bar and lower control arm was holding the end link in place despite it being corroded to the point that it broke the head off the end link bolt at the lower control arm. When i hit a big pot hole it must have forced the end link bolt through the rubber sleeve and out of the stablizer bar. I had not noticed additional sway previously but i do not take corners or turns that fast. But after i knew the end link was broke i jerked the wheel back and forth at about 30mph and the broken side dipped down way further than the unbroken side.

Went for a ride to walmart to get some bait and glow sticks for fishing tonight. Hit a few small pot holes on purpose and did not hear anymore metal clanking that i had been hearing for the past month and could not find the source. Jerked the wheel back and forth at about 30mph and it felt great. Locktite and the second nut tightened down against the first one should guarantee that it is not coming off.

 

[Gerbil21]

Thanks for the response. They are slightly squished but nowhere near flat. I do not have a torque wrench and guessed at it. 17'# is was the fsm said. I know what 10'# feels like and what i applied was not much more than that. I got the vmware fsm already. Very handy with the electrical stuff i have tinkered with.

In addition to the thread locking compound i went ahead and put on a second nut to tighten down against the first. It should not go anywhere.

The rubber sleeve between the the stabilizer bar and lower control arm was holding the end link in place despite it being corroded to the point that it broke the head off the end link bolt at the lower control arm. When i hit a big pot hole it must have forced the end link bolt through the rubber sleeve and out of the stablizer bar. I had not noticed additional sway previously but i do not take corners or turns that fast. But after i knew the end link was broke i jerked the wheel back and forth at about 30mph and the broken side dipped down way further than the unbroken side.

Went for a ride to walmart to get some bait and glow sticks for fishing tonight. Hit a few small pot holes on purpose and did not hear anymore metal clanking that i had been hearing for the past month and could not find the source. Jerked the wheel back and forth at about 30mph and it felt great. Locktite and the second nut tightened down against the first one should guarantee that it is not coming off.

That's good you got everything working good. Also good call using the thread locking compound alot of people don't and end up ruining new links from them coming loose again. I need to do mimes now they sound like a box of bolts lol

 

[Gerbil21]

Well all this talk of replacing parts I checked mines today and not only are all 4 links dead the front bushings are too. The whole bar moves and clunks lol I also need to switch back to trailvoy shocks the z71 Tahoe shocks and springs are too firm for the rear, the shocks are good if there's no passengers in the back lol if there are they may hit their head lol