05 chevy Express 3500 transmission cooler install

Sprung Monkey

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05 chevy Express 3500 transmission cooler install
I've looked an can't find a OEM transmision cooler an would like to add one.

Normaley when I install a trans cooler I just bypass the radiator an leave the rad. Ports open however the 3500 has a what I think is a power steering cooler plumbed into the rad. On pass. Side. An a loop of tubing under rad. Core surport.image
OEM trans cooler.jpg




I think the4L80 transmission lines are routed to the driver side of rad. Crossing over the engine.

maybe its a good idea to continue to use the rad. an just splice in the cooler to one of the trans lines?
the lines are metal coming out of trans to front of engine then have rubber section (kindof like a power steering line) then metal to the radiator.
Where is a good place to splice in the trans cooler?



I would normaley cut both trans lines in rad an out rad an install the cooler to these lines.

since theres some kindof other cooling lines on the pass. side, How would I plug the rad. Ports? and if this is a power steering cooler is trans. fuild cooling it?

Do the trans.lines that go into the rad. Screw off or are there those redickulous clips hold the lines? If they screw off what size wrench do I need?

Please advise an thanks for any tips.
 
I wouldn't get a stock cooler since it's not really a cooler as seen in your pic. I'd get an aftermarket one that is installed in front of the radiator. Plate and fin type are the best.

They are usually installed in series with the one in the radiator on the outlet port. Not sure which port that would be but on GM trucks with side mounted tanks, inlet is usually on top and outlet on the bottom. To know for sure, disconnect the line from the radiator you think is the outlet and bump the starter. Wherever it comes out of, that's where you would connect your aux cooler. This process can be messy. Bump the starter using a jumper at the starter relay and not the key as it could actually start the engine and really make a mess.
 
I’ve traced the trans tubes from the trans. Crossed over engine then upto an connected to the rad. On driver side.image



I haven’trans tubes iconnectd to radiator.jpgt confirmed this yet. But the tubes on pass.side rad. Must be that loop under the rad surport.I’ll have to crawl under there again.
I just found out that loop under rad. core surport is in fact a power steering cooler but appears to only connect to the rack.

doe's this mean the the rad is divided where pass side cools maybe engine oil an driv.side cools trans fuild?
power steering cooler.jpg

the silverados have the trans fuild entering the rad on the pass.side like most GMs this 3500 is a bit differnt. the tubes cross over the engine to driver side in red.
transmission lines routed to driver side of radiator silverdrado.jpg


The loop Seams like a strange arrangement for cooling fuild. I assume the wind cools fuild.



Now some of these Express vans have another strange looking arrangement which is in fact a trans cooler this.




OEM cooler.jpg
However the lines are already there for a cooler swap.

Still unsure of an easy way to splice in the cooler this is the cooler I have I've been wanting to install for over a year now I'm towing w/ the 3500 so I realy want to install.image

my trans cooler.jpg

an want to mount like this image.


cooler mounted example.jpg
either on it’s own bypassing the rad. Or in series as you suggest.

Thanks Mooseman.
 
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I think I may have figured it out cut one of the two trans tubes entering the rad an insert the cooler. so which tube do I insert into? the AI bot on the net suggests I run engine an touch both tubes then cut the cold tube for insertion?
 
Those tube and fin coolers aren't the best. Take a look at this thread. It's for GMT360s but the info can be very useful and shows the type that's better for cooling:

 
05 chevy express 3500 which never had a cooler
very little to no infor on these vans just silverados.
which has the trans tubes on rad.s pass. side vans are on the driver side
here's my plan cut the top of rad. tube out of rad go into the side mounted coolers bottom port, out the cooler top port back into the cut rad tube which is the return.
if it wasn't for the I think power steering on opposite side of rad. I'd eliminate the rad alltogether.

I plan an arrangment like above on driverside where the trans tubes are on rad.

like isn't this how the rad.s builtin cooler works in though the bottom hot fuild then cooled out though the top back into trans. they refer to as return tube which I believe to be the input? thanks
 
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On side mounted rad tanks, it's normally the top line that goes in and the bottom one that comes out and goes back to the tranny. You might have to experiment to find out which one is which.

When adding an aux tranny cooler, you normally add it in series after the radiator's cooler. Fluid goes through the rad, out and then into the aux cooler, and then from the cooler back to the tranny.

Some bypass the radiator's cooler altogether as it sometimes adds heat to the fluid instead of cooling it, especially if in hot areas. I have mine in series as I am in a cold climate.
 
Installed the 26K auxiliary cooler.Out rad. Sliced into the tube entering the lower rad.port To in coolers lower port. Out coolers top port Back to trans return. I may have these in/outs at cooler backwards?image

installed.jpg

Ordered AC delco filter an gasket hope it’s the correct filter for my pan.amazon says a seal is included.my luck the seal is probaley the ring at top of filter) I choose the AC delco bc Wix doesn’t include a gasket.I’m hoping there’s a reusable GM gasket. image.

AC delco filter an gasket.jpg

The dripped out fuild wasn’t totally burnt had a bit of redness but dark red.image
old trans fuild.jpg
I believe but haven’t confirmed his 4L80 pan indeed has a drain plug notice the indentation,
my trans pan.jpg
I’ve read the nut is very short so it’s hard to grip. A drain would lessen the mess.

w/ front of van on ramps plan is to remove all but one rear corner an one rear side corner of front of pan then slowely lower rear of pan.



Snatch out the old filter, if the peskie ring is jammed up inside case just reuse it, press in new filter. Line up gasket on cleaned pan w/ a couple bolts IIRC there are aligment pins on a reusable gasket?
reinstall pan tightening in 2 pass’s from inside outward snugging. I do have a inch type torque wrench not sure how to use it on LBs will snug like a spark plug.



Will I be able to tell if this pan has ever been dropped?

Here’s rest of plan:

1.drop pan replenish what was drained should be 6 quarts, I believe whats in the bottom of pan is unfiltered BC the filters pickup is on the bottom?

2. remove trans tube at top of rad. Extend it w/ additional tubing will pump into a metered one gallon oil container.

3.run engine an pump out 2 quarts,turn off engine then replenish the 2 quarts.

4.continue to pump another 2 quarts replenish.

I will pump out total of 3 gallons an replenish w/ Castrol dexron4 image.
dexron4.jpg
thanks for any tips
 
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A couple of tips. Use the pump to pump out the fluid until empty, same as when you're exchanging the fluid, before dropping the pan. Avoids the mess. And I wouldn't bother with the filter seal as it's a real PITA to get out unless it's damaged or hardened. There is a risk of damaging the hole where the filter is using tools to pry it out.

As far as how to tell if the pan has ever been dropped, you can look for tool witness marks on the bolts and if it's not the OEM filter and pan gasket, especially if it's a cork gasket. OEM was a metal/rubber gasket.

This video shows how to pump out/exchange the fluid:

 
I'm hoping there is a drain plug.
you can see the round indentation in middle of my pan but now I see his smaller pan remember mines a 4L80. his has the indentation but no drain.
on pan an drain before dropping pan. I've sean that mans other videos there pretty good. he forgot to mention to shift the trans though all gear then check the fuild.
I was adviced to not use the castrol fuild that fits all types of cars, but to use a fuild that just dexron only for GM? thanks
 
I was adviced to not use the castrol fuild that fits all types of cars, but to use a fuild that just dexron only for GM?
Personally I don't use any "universal" type fluid so yeah, I'd stick to a true Dex VI fluid.

Although your tranny is a 4L80, the methods shown in the video are the same if you don't have a drain plug.
 
how doe's this fuild look? I'd like to use this fuild for another road 250 mile one way trip there an back then change.

I think I got boned on the new trans filter ordered a AC Delco received a filtran.

do gueniue AC DElco parts have AC Delco printed on them? also no gasket included. will I be able to see if theres a reusable gasket before I drop the pan?
not using the universal fuild ordered the AC Delco dexron4 for $30. per gallon so it's probaly fake?
thanks Mooseman for advice.

none AC Delco filter.jpgnone AC Delco filter2.jpgnone AC Delco filter3.jpg
 
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rock autos filter doesn't have any ingraving but same PN as amazon
rockauto isnt a filtran.jpg
inline filter acting as another cooler image.inline filter acting as another cooler.jpg
 
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how doe's this fuild look? I'd like to use this fuild for another road 250 mile one way trip there an back then change.
I don't know. That link goes to somebody's profile on another forum.

I think I got boned on the new trans filter ordered a AC Delco received a filtran.

do gueniue AC DElco parts have AC Delco printed on them? also no gasket included. will I be able to see if theres a reusable gasket before I drop the pan?
It's probably genuine, made by Filtran. ACDelco doesn't make anything. It's just parts supplied to them and put in ACDelco boxes. Found this on a Corvette site:


not using the universal fuild ordered the AC Delco dexron4 for $30. per gallon so it's probaly fake?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKMGG92/?tag=gmtnation-20
Haven't heard of fake tranny fluid. No idea what the going price is in the US but RA lists Valvoline's Dex VI (6) for $30/gal

 
And that inline filter is for power steering systems. I wouldn't use that on the tranny line.
 
Amazon doesn’t claim this trans fuild 10-9395 is actuely synthetic.
ac_delco_trans_fuild_9db4c96dfbf8ca21292f26f27a2468a7c4a2c3d9.jpg



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKMGG92?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKMGG92/?tag=gmtnation-20



GM is claiming it’s synthetic https://parts.gmparts.com/product/ac...ekFwcy4QsUMcm1

so why is there 2 differnt part#s for this trans fuild? 10-9244 an The AC Delco synthetic version of Dexron-VI 10-9395is amazon imatation?

the container this fuild came in isn't the same shape as a normal gallon container. at first glance it appeared to be less than a gallon but has gallon printed on it.
the container may have bee reengineered to fit in a smaller shipping box.

maybe I should send back an get the valvolene dexron4? They claim it’s synthetic. Image.



I cant sleep at night worring about the imatation trans fuild dam.

I desided not to take a chance on there being a reusable gasket installed.don’t see myself spending $50 on a genuine GM so I’m leaning toward ATP, I think the $10 fle pro is to cheap to be any good.image
cheaper_fle_pro_35c7e3390fc57b487d483b9238def8a0b2a5ff00.jpg




Rock auto sells the ATP JG142 for $18.24 plus ship
gasket_8ffde3f33e55005f30d2914816a2a86c8d2f034b.jpg


Amazon sells the ATP JG142 for $24. free ship an free returns. Would be my better option just in case my gasket is orginal reusable.

What type of pan gaskets are you Guys using ? van has 125K miles on the clock.
 
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You have to take Amazon descriptions with a grain of salt as they can be wrong. They both look the same.

I try to use reusable gaskets. The cork ones tend to be a PITA and be leaky.
maybe I should send back an get the valvolene dexron4? They claim it’s synthetic.
There is no such thing as Dexron 4. Dexron VI (6) is it. It doesn't matter what brand you get, if it says Dexron VI, it must meet GM's standard and is certified as such. They are all synthetic.
 
Pumped some fuild out about 3 quarts. Then dropped pan there was still about 4 quarts dripped out into drain pan.

Dropped the pan an the filter was laying on bottom of pan. Shoved new filter into position didn’nt seam tight doe’s the pan hold this filter inplace? All previous filter I’ve changed on other GMs the car, Saab an a 1500express the filters always had to be snatched out an shoved in an where in there snuggly.

on previous filter changes this seal was jammed way up inside case this seal was in the proper hole but at the bottom of case now I was able to press the filter up to just under the inside stuff.



reinstalled pan.replenished the same amount that came out before dropping pan.

Evidently the shift linkage just snapes back on an doesn’t have the cheap plastic bushing that breaks like on the GTM360s?



Started pumping out more black fuild couple quarts at a time turning off engine then replenhishing the same amount that came out.

When I thought she was pumping cleaner fuild I stopped.



I may have pumped a bit more of the new fuild bc a bit more than 15 quarts came out.

Now I have around 15 quarts ran engine shifted though the gears an zero on the dipstick.



How low can the trans be on fuild where it shouldn’t be driven until filled to proper level? An yes I had engine running while checking level.



The express has recently been stalling out just when backing up driveway right when I shift to reverse or out driveway when shifting to drive so I crank her up again then shift again to reverse not sure if this stalling is transmission related?



I thought maybe the filter was clogged up interfering w/ shifting gears. anyway she drives excellent I did take the 250 mile one way road trip even on that black burned fuild.



Edit: I’m thinking this express’s trans pan has never been dropped. Doe’s GM recommend driving 100K miles then change the fuild an filter?



Edit2: I believe ppl that have the trans. Serviced have a pump connected an pumps out the old an pumps in the new these so called services leave the dirty filter. Is this true or false?sorry to be so long. An thanks
 
If this trans is anything like the 4L60, it should be held in place by the seal. If not, it might be worn. The pan will keep it in place. The seal may be marginal. If it was pumping the fluid well during the flush/exchange, I wouldn't be worried about it.

You should NOT drive it unless you have the proper amount on the dipstick. Would you want to risk burning it up?

The express has recently been stalling out just when backing up driveway right when I shift to reverse or out driveway when shifting to drive so I crank her up again then shift again to reverse not sure if this stalling is transmission related?
I doubt it.

Edit: I’m thinking this express’s trans pan has never been dropped. Doe’s GM recommend driving 100K miles then change the fuild an filter?
Got this fro AI:

For a 2005 Chevy Express 3500 with an automatic transmission, the recommended fluid change interval is
every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. For vehicles under severe driving conditions, this service should be performed more frequently, around every 40,000 to 45,000 miles


Most people neglect it.

Edit2: I believe ppl that have the trans. Serviced have a pump connected an pumps out the old an pumps in the new these so called services leave the dirty filter. Is this true or false?sorry to be so long. An thanks
Depends on the shop. I wouldn't trust quick lube places as that could be what they do and does a reverse flush using older machines which is not good. Newer machines actually use the tranny's pump at the cooler lines, much like how we do our fluid exchange.
 

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