04 TB temperature needle drifts to the right when going up a hill
- Thread starter gica
- Start date
This radiator is off the market from Amazon it doesn't have 10k miles on and I always used the dex on it. Can it be that sensitive? I have had many cars and never have I seen an off the market plug up from using the wrong combo of anti freeze.
When I give it 12+ V on the white it does cool it down.
Is there a way to hook up a 12V potentiometer to control how much voltage the white wire gets? Instead of the full 12V+ just to use it based on temperature.
When I give it 12+ V on the white it does cool it down.
Is there a way to hook up a 12V potentiometer to control how much voltage the white wire gets? Instead of the full 12V+ just to use it based on temperature.
With the crossed up thread subjects I may have posted this elsewhere but anyway.....Fuel level that works for our trucks is not in Torque by default. But it is here at post #31 of More Pids for Torque...
More PIDs for Torque App
A short time ago I posted a new pid I discovered for the Fan Speed of a 4.2 in a 2002 Trailblazer. It was properly suggested by MRRSM that I repost that information here so here I am. It is possible that this is my first original post! I have been spending a great deal of time fiddling with...
gmtnation.com
The PID torque is using here for fuel level is not supported in our trucks. Use the PID details provided in the "More PIDs for Torque" thread. You will need tonadd the PID manually through the setting menu item.
Mooseman
Moderator
It has happened where the dex gelled up when mixed with the green stuff. Really nasty mess. If you used only dex and distilled water with it if it wasn't pre-mixed, there shouldn't be a problem.
Unless the aftermarket rad was of such inferior quality that it has less or smaller tubes and/or less fins, it should work fine. I had an aftermarket rad in my '02 that worked fine. I even kept it as a spare in case my '07 ever needs it.
I don't know if a potentiometer would work correctly with the fan clutch as it was designed to work with a PWM signal. Some in the past have wired a switch to the white wire to give extra cooling when required. It shouldn't require modifications like this. Have you tried swapping the relay/module with the headlight one? They are the same.
Both relays are brand new.
The other day the fan started to do the high rpm sound in the morning again. Didn't do it for awhile. It does it untill it worms up. That was different.
So I ordered both the AC Delco radiator and fan from Amazon and will install when they get here tomorrow. If they don't do anything different I'll just return them. I am hoping at least the fan to be more involved as this seems to happen only sometimes on the flatland but mostly going uphill. Maybe it doesn't get triggered. Even at idle with AC on ot takes awhile to get to 228.
The other day the fan started to do the high rpm sound in the morning again. Didn't do it for awhile. It does it untill it worms up. That was different.
So I ordered both the AC Delco radiator and fan from Amazon and will install when they get here tomorrow. If they don't do anything different I'll just return them. I am hoping at least the fan to be more involved as this seems to happen only sometimes on the flatland but mostly going uphill. Maybe it doesn't get triggered. Even at idle with AC on ot takes awhile to get to 228.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Since you mentioned this, haven't given much thought to it but reminds me of mine after a guy in an Explorer tore the nose off my Envoy, nearly totalling it.
Among many items replaced, one was the radiator and ever since then if I'm towing a decent load, maybe 3K lbs, the temp will climb a couple ticks past 210 and I dont remember ever the temp nearing 230 deg.
The new radiator does not have the drain port on the passenger side which I miss.
So this begs to question, the quality of the OE radiator and/or the size of the cooling passages. With the original radiator, it was rare the needle went more than a tick past 210, but now 2 ticks past 210 is the norm when towing, even an empty trailer @ 1400 lbs.
Thanks for that TJ
Also do you have the PIDs for the fan? Thanks in advance
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Mooseman
Moderator
I know it could be extra work but could you replace one, try it, and then the other? It would be interesting to see if one or the other actually makes a difference. We could make some bets. I'm betting on the radiator.
What do you get when you try the test button at the bottom? Maybe try with the last '01' removed.
This is my result with the test....
I'll look back and see what year your is....
Pids for the Fan Speeds are also in that thread as well as camshaft phaser stuff and bunch of others.
Fan speed is post #1 of the thread. Desired Fan speed is post 2 of the thread. Being the first posts of the thread it looks like I had not started listing the parameters seperate from the text but they are right in there.
I completely forgot about my Autel MaxiDiag Elite MD802 scanner that I put away with all the multimeters I have and completely forgot about. So this thing can read everything. If it did bi-direction it would be the best pro scanner for less. I can read every possible system monitor. Tranny, evap, engine on three different folders etc. It shows the fan desired and actual speed, all the trims, injectors, temps, injectors, cylinders, EVERYTHING.
So what should I look for when I get the higher temps? I know probably Fan desired speed, actual speed, RPM, car temp, trims long and short. But what about the AC High pressure I read that it also affect temps. Too bad I cannot select the monitors I want like in Torque Pro. But I can film it and show it while scrolling.
Now I wonder if the older Autel DS708 which is bi directional and half the price of the DS808 on eBay is any good at controlling functions? Wish I knew someone that still uses it. Cannot be that bad. The Autel MD802 is about the same year and it's complete as far as scanning functions but no bi directional.
So what should I look for when I get the higher temps? I know probably Fan desired speed, actual speed, RPM, car temp, trims long and short. But what about the AC High pressure I read that it also affect temps. Too bad I cannot select the monitors I want like in Torque Pro. But I can film it and show it while scrolling.
Now I wonder if the older Autel DS708 which is bi directional and half the price of the DS808 on eBay is any good at controlling functions? Wish I knew someone that still uses it. Cannot be that bad. The Autel MD802 is about the same year and it's complete as far as scanning functions but no bi directional.
I just read a bit on Dexcool and the issues that include corrosion, overheating, gel build up in the radiator manifold damage. So did any of you change to no DeX coolant if so what's the best coolant (Prestone Complete?)
And how to flush the old completely. Just asking.
And how to flush the old completely. Just asking.
Mooseman
Moderator
Dexcool is fine as long as you don't mix it with anything else, including so-called "universal" coolants. There were issues in its early days but have since been sorted out. And since it's a long life coolant, you won't have to worry about it for a while unlike the green stuff.
So the best thing is to buy the premix or the concentrated and do distilled 60 anti freeze
40. I am in Los Angeles.
40. I am in Los Angeles.
Amazon.com: ACDelco 10-5027 Dex-Cool 50/50 Pre-Mix Engine Coolant/Antifreeze - 1 gal: Automotive
Buy ACDelco 10-5027 Dex-Cool 50/50 Pre-Mix Engine Coolant/Antifreeze - 1 gal: Antifreezes & Coolants - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
"Dex Cool" - the 'red' Antifreeze....
If your vehicle has the "red" DexCool antifreeze in it.... read this link ! Suggestion: Be sitting down and have any blood pressure meds handy as you read the link. BTW: There is a "class-action" law-suite pending regarding "Dex-Cool". 'Google' "Dex-Cool coolant" for more info. Slug-gunner
forum.gon.com
Mooseman
Moderator
50/50 is better for heat dissipation. 60/40 would be for freeze protection in the high north, higher than me even. Think Alaska. The pre-mixes are usually 50/50. Water dissipates heat better than coolant.
Mooseman
Moderator
From a post in that same thread:
Your choice. Just be damned sure that ALL the orange stuff is completely flushed out.
Your choice. Just be damned sure that ALL the orange stuff is completely flushed out.
Ok so I filmed while driving there are 3 clips and they are 123, 124, 125.
One is from when I first started driving and the last one when it was 216. It shows fan speeds
One is from when I first started driving and the last one when it was 216. It shows fan speeds
Mooseman
Moderator
There should be a mixing ratio chart on the container. Follow their recommendations. There's all sorts of school of thought out there, some even going to a 90-10 water-coolant mix. Water Wetter is a product I sometimes use to help with heat transfer.
What is the best way to get all the orange out. Since you cannot use a hose to flush.
I previously used prestone GM decool approved. Don't remember flushing before.
I have to buy some distilled water from Walmart like 6 gallons.
I previously used prestone GM decool approved. Don't remember flushing before.
I have to buy some distilled water from Walmart like 6 gallons.
Mooseman
Moderator
It's probably the same. They can't "call" it Dexcool because it's proprietary to ACDelco but can say it's "compatible" to it.
So I fixed the gas tank a few days ago as I mentioned before the inlet valve was leaking as it does on most of the trailblazers giving codes. Mine was P0442. Well today the EVAP monitor finally went through and I have no code anymore. First time in many many years.
One down and one to go. Tomorrow I will install the new AC Delco radiator and/ or the AC Delco fan. Hopefully it will cure the damn heating issue. I need to tow my jetskis and /or boat to the lake and there is a hill. Crossing fingers.
By the way I looked at the long and short trim values and the highest I got today with or without AC uphill or not was -11.2 once at idle. Most of the time it was -3 to +2 for the long trim while driving, it went to -10.2, -9.4 and back to 2, 3.
Is that decent?
One down and one to go. Tomorrow I will install the new AC Delco radiator and/ or the AC Delco fan. Hopefully it will cure the damn heating issue. I need to tow my jetskis and /or boat to the lake and there is a hill. Crossing fingers.
By the way I looked at the long and short trim values and the highest I got today with or without AC uphill or not was -11.2 once at idle. Most of the time it was -3 to +2 for the long trim while driving, it went to -10.2, -9.4 and back to 2, 3.
Is that decent?
I replaced the radiator and fan could not test drive it because the fan is doing the airplane mumbo. It's freakin loud when I press the gas. Is there anything I can do or is it a dud. This is the Ac Delco Bear shit it pisses me off.
Ok so I actually took it for a drive and the airplane sound subsided when the gears changed. Tomorrow I will take it for a drive and see what changed. This fan is really hard to spin by hand compared to the other off the market one.
It is considered normal for the fan to require as long as 2 minutes at no less than 2000 rpm to disengage and thus quiet down.
Mooseman
Moderator
It almost tripped me out last night.
So I drove the car with AC today and noticed some differences. The temp did not go past 201. At idle it was oscillating 198,199 to 201. On the freeway 196,198. The fan though shows different readings than the cheaper equivalent one.
Desired speed is always at 300to 400 but Fan speed goes from 450 to 1000. I cannot feel that though. I never got those readings with the old fan. Not at 201⁰. I will upload a video showing the fan speed driving on the streets from warm up at idle. You can compare with the other videos on Dropbox.
Haven't been uphill yet.
So I drove the car with AC today and noticed some differences. The temp did not go past 201. At idle it was oscillating 198,199 to 201. On the freeway 196,198. The fan though shows different readings than the cheaper equivalent one.
Desired speed is always at 300to 400 but Fan speed goes from 450 to 1000. I cannot feel that though. I never got those readings with the old fan. Not at 201⁰. I will upload a video showing the fan speed driving on the streets from warm up at idle. You can compare with the other videos on Dropbox.
Haven't been uphill yet.
Blckshdw
Moderator
My guess would be the rush of air through the radiator when driving at speed, is contributing to the fan spinning, in addition to the bit of residual friction from the clutch.
Oh this AC fan is really tight cannot spin it freely by hand like the other one. The air has nothing to do with it. This is all belt driven and some computer driven. The other fans were cheap ones and the belt did not spin them properly too much free play. It's clear.
But I have to drive it on a hotter day. Today it was 82⁰ only and on flat land it did not go beyond 201⁰. On the little
But steel hill I went it took it up to 207⁰. Again all very different than before. I hope it stays this way.
