There seems to of been an unfortunate trend lately with people having transmission related issues, causing them to have to drop theirs. I've installed and removed the 4L60E a handful of times now on several GMT360's. During my times spent doing so, I've learned a few key things to look out for...
The way to tell if it's the pump, pull the top tranny cooler hose, attach a hose to the end and put the other end into a container. Start the engine and see if you have a good steady stream.
Even with the connector disconnected, it will go into a gear as a default mode to get you home.
yes. the torque converter separated but seemed to lock back into place nicely .. I will check the pump flow if the electrical turns out to be ok.. thanks for the advice! I'll will post whatever i come up with .. So fluid should pump out of the top line if its in park or does it have to be in gear?
Also check for codes, which would show up with electrical issues to the tranny.
And correction for the flow check. It's the lower line that goes into the radiator unless you have a connector you can use at the top one from the radiator. Fluid comes out of the top one from the radiator. Just like in this video where it starts:
The Red Circle Location is where the 20 Pin Plug is situated on the Passenger Side of the 4L60E Transmission. It only requires an "EZ PZ Squeezy" on the Two lined-knurled Flat Tabs ... then it lifts upwards... No Twisting Involved Here:
Replacement External 4L60E 20 Pin Connector and Pgtail Harness:
Follow up on this thread: I had to had to basically rebuild the transmission pump do to the damage from the torque converter not being set correctly.. The truck is back on the road now! Lesson learned .. Thanks for the input!!