what caliper do you guys use?

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
I just installed new pads n rotors yesterday & today I had rf heat up & smoke out! WTF! pins seemed ok, thinkin a piston must have hung?? I see most are sold with bracket & cant decide if I should just get a TB reg body caliper & prolly install new boots on my old bracket. Or just get the whole smash with bracket for a little more? Iirc the Fenco pin/bracket design may be different(cheaper no doubt) than the stock bracket? I'm prolly being to anal about it! lol
 

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
It's hard NOT to be anal, when there are so many choices! :crazy:

I was on rockauto.com today shopping for calipers for another vehicle...
ended up buying centric-semi-loaded (from amazon.com) for that one.

Then, for the hell of it, I checked out calipers for my TB... even more choices!! :crazy: :crazy:

I haven't made a decision yet...
IIRC, some of the choices with the bracket cost less than ones without the bracket!!! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

I budget myself when shopping for parts, so I think I'd rather inspect my OEM brackets first.
If they are in good shape, then I'd spend more on a higher quality brand without bracket.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
If you buy rotors...get ext brackets n rotors
 

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
HARDTRAILZ said:
If you buy rotors...get ext brackets n rotors
Make sure you add EXT calipers to that list too.
I'm guessing they have a bigger radius to fit over the larger EXT rotor...

Non-Ext = 305mm (12.007")
EXT = 12.80"

However, from what I've gathered, the pads are the same size on all models :confused:
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
well I'm stumped?? The guy sold me a fenco caliper w/bracket for a reg body(non ext) & said the calipers are the same just dont use the bracket. OK so I did, after bleeding it I couldnt turn the hub at all? so I loosened the bleeder-nuthing, so I took the line off at caliper-nuthing! LOL the truck from hell! I took the caliper back for an exchange-same thing? Though I havent tried loosening the line yet..wtf? I'm like stumped? all I did was put new pads n rotors on!
 

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
Try putting the old caliper over the new rotor?
Try loosening one bolt on (new) caliper and pivot it up to see if rotor spins?

Sounds to me like you got (new) big rotors with (new) little calipers.

Measure the rotor daimeter... the specs are illustrated in the post above.
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
wheel bearings good & I do have the ext which I believe would be large rotors. I've been lead to believe the calipers are the same & just use a different bracket? I just removed the 2nd new caliper & cannot squeeze in lower piston with large channel locks? I can squeeze in upper piston or both on old caliper? WTF! I also removed rubber brake hose & blew out easily so no restriction I see? I feel like I'm in the twilight zone today!
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
coolasice said:
Unless you have 16" wheels...
True.


808_LS_EXT said:
Make sure you add EXT calipers to that list too.
I'm guessing they have a bigger radius to fit over the larger EXT rotor...

Non-Ext = 305mm (12.007")
EXT = 12.80"

However, from what I've gathered, the pads are the same size on all models :confused:
Calipers are the same across all models. Only difference is material of the SS ones, but they are all the same size. The bracket and rotor size are only difference.



-- Sound like you got a bum caliper.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I don't use channel locks to compress the piston unless I have an old pad between the jaws and the piston, lessens the chance of binding the piston, and then I try to compress both at the same time.

Crack the bleeder with a hose attached and see if it has a steady drip, hose could still be partially collapsed.

Did you clean out the grease where the pin goes? Could have some excess grease at bottom of bore and not allowing caliper pin to fully seat.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Did you accidentally twist the brake hose around? Not likely but have to ask.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
New rotors.... how come nobody has asked the "Dell Tech Support" question yet? Was brake cleaner used to clear the oil from machining and packaging of the rotors?
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Cause it has no bearing on the calipers...
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
HARDTRAILZ said:
Cause it has no bearing on the calipers...
It would be the first thing on my mind if I changed rotors and had a smoke-out, because it's something a person can forget easily enough. And from his post on the old caliper, it seems like it may not be bad after all anyway?
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Ahh. I see where you are going now...
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
IllogicTC said:
New rotors.... how come nobody has asked the "Dell Tech Support" question yet? Was brake cleaner used to clear the oil from machining and packaging of the rotors?
That's a good question. Could have forgot to clean that side.
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
Yes I did clean rotors & everything else is good? Yes 17", prolly on all ext's. and the brake hose did seem wide open as well. I did p/u a new hose just in case....I just find it hard to believe that 2 reman's both had problems? Anyways...I went back to another store that had the slc639 & the slc639A & walked out with both. I installed the slc639A for the EXT & as always, everything went together smooth but will wait till morning to bleed & see.....I sanded pads which now have a nice crack down them due to yesterdays heat episode..wtf! This is the thanks I get for taking good care of the old TB and helping the economy as well LOL!
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
Today I bled RF caliper & all is ok. Checked LF & it was somewhat dragging-wtf so I p/u a LF caliper & bracket and a new hose as well. move truck over a little for working room and lift LF, only to see its spinning freely? wtf, figure I got the parts so I put em on, roadtest-its hanging & stinks...LOL..tomorrow I'll disaasemble, clean & reinstall/roadtest before changing out another caliper! Reman cheap junk I guess...
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
How are you road testing the brakes? Should be very gentle stops then let cool for a short period. When I change mine, I go through a neighborhood and very gradually slow to a stop from 25 MPH, then I take my time to the next stop sign allowing the rotors to cool a little. I do this about 5 to 10 times before I hit the street.

Just don't go out and make hard stops right away.

You didn't answer this yet.....Did you check the bore of the caliper pin yet? Clear of excessive grease in the bottom of the bore?
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
Yes, to seat/burnish in new pads/rotors I do 5-10 stops from 35-45 mph with firm pressure & not to overheat brakes, as far as the pins, I got semi-loaded which have the brackets/pins already installed. So I unbolted the calipers, removed & sanded pads/wiped rotor surfaces with acetone, c-clamped the pistons back just a tad and reinstalled-including wheel. tire/wheel spins freely, then pumped brakes to get all settled & spin wheel again which seems moderately restrictive? Soo for shits n giggles I'm going to take it out for a 6-8 mile test & bring it back to see.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,310
Ottawa, ON
A lot of people and even a manufacturer suggest the 30/30/30 method to burnish the brakes, which is what I use.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech-tip-brake-burnishing-procedures-for-new-brake-pads-or-shoes/

30/30/30 Burnish Procedure
• Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop.
• The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance.
• Following this procedure also assures that your customer will have excellent brake performance from the first time he or she drives the car after brake service has been performed. You should not depend on your customer to break in the brake job. The only way to assure that it is done correctly is to incorporate it into your brake job test drive.
Remember, proper burnishing assures a long lasting, high performing, noise free brake job!
 

moneypit

Original poster
Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
Thanks moose:smile: testdrove, seemed a tad hotter than right but I'm gonna call it a day & just drive it some more & hope for the best..haha! doesnt pull & brakes feel great! as does the suspension since doing ball joints, S-links, struts/shocks & new tires. Really, this thing rolls smooth & quiet down the hwy like never before! :smile:
 

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