What are your best winter traction habits?

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
I run oversized 265/65/17 Michelin LTX MS/2's right now. They are pretty good in the winter... I wouldn't say great especially in deep snow. They handle the ice well. I usually keep air pressure about 35psi on all 4's in the winter. I also put 3 bags of water softener (120lbs) sitting on the 3rd row seats directly over the rear axle. I've found that putting them all the way back by the gate actually makes the front end slightly lighter because of the fulcrum action going on.

Anyone else have any habits they do for winter driving? Has anyone found that a certain lower/higher PSI will help with traction? I feel as if a higher PSI will work better to cut through snow, but a lower PSI will help with ice traction in having a larger footprint. Thoughts?
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
I'd defer for ice traction over snow-cutting ability. Snow seems to get compacted into something along the lines of ice eventually anyway.

If you're not sitting in deep snow when stopped, consider starting out in 2nd gear. Helps keep torque under control.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
I typically run 30psi all around in the tires. My Cooper Discoverer LSX Plus tires (245/60R18) performed very well last winter when I had to drive 30 miles in 18" of snow.

When it comes time for new tires I am going your route and upgrading to 265/60R18. Get something a little wider for more traction.

Typically, anytime there is snow/ice on the ground I am in 4hi. A lot better control and keeps my rear end from swinging out. Never used extra weight over the axels in the TB.

I do however load 1000lbs of sand bags into the bed of the wife's F150 which is 2wd. Without the added weight she would never make it out of our neighborhood.
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
DenaliHD66 said:
I run oversized 265/65/17 Michelin LTX MS/2's right now. They are pretty good in the winter... I wouldn't say great especially in deep snow. They handle the ice well. I usually keep air pressure about 35psi on all 4's in the winter. I also put 3 bags of water softener (120lbs) sitting on the 3rd row seats directly over the rear axle. I've found that putting them all the way back by the gate actually makes the front end slightly lighter because of the fulcrum action going on.

Anyone else have any habits they do for winter driving? Has anyone found that a certain lower/higher PSI will help with traction? I feel as if a higher PSI will work better to cut through snow, but a lower PSI will help with ice traction in having a larger footprint. Thoughts?
You, sir, are ahead of the curve. I have the same tires. Keep psi the same because snow conditions can vary and the lower psi will hurt mpgs. I "try" to keep the tach under 2k in inclement weather.

IMHO, the best winter traction come solely from a WINTER tire. Hakka's, winterforce, blizzaks, and xIce's are very reputable. General's winter tire too.
All the weight, psi,and attitude thought changes with a tire designed to drive on ice, snow and <40*F.

Edit: even snow tires on a 2wd car performs better than AWD all seasons on every test but straight line acceleration according to Michelin. I've seen the test myself too.
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
dmanns67 said:
[SIZE=13.63636302948px] I also put 3 bags of water softener (120lbs) sitting on the 3rd row seats directly over the rear axle.[/SIZE]
Just my 2 cents, but you did ask for "thoughts", I'd risk getting stuck 100 times before I'd put something in the truck that would kill me in a roll-over





dmanns67 said:
Get something a little wider for more traction.
Actually, if you think about it, the wider the tire, the less traction you will have.
A wider tire gives you a larger foot print on all corners, bigger footprint equals more square inches on the ground (good for braking on dry pavement), but add snow/ice and you now have less pounds per square inch (truck weight hasn't changed, but footprint is bigger). The smaller the pounds per square inch, the lower the traction on a slippery surface.

The other problem a wider tire gives you, is the width when pushing through fresh snow, the wider tire acts like a bigger snow plow.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Easy on the gas, easy on the brake. Learn and use threshold braking (stops faster than just letting ABS hammer away).

Unless it is really bad I still usually stay in 2WD. Even last winter when we got hammered I probably only used the 4WD a handful of times. I don't have snow tires either, just some good ATs.
 

DenaliHD66

Original poster
Member
Dec 4, 2011
597
The wider tire does decrease traction in regards to cutting through snow and ice. Larger footprint on ice means more weight to slip since there is no traction on ice. Snow tires have close and soft treads that better conform to the ice to allow it to grab at it. I won't ever get snow tires as I think all seasons or all terrains are just fine.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
DenaliHD66 said:
The wider tire does decrease traction in regards to cutting through snow and ice. Larger footprint on ice means more weight to slip since there is no traction on ice. Snow tires have close and soft treads that better conform to the ice to allow it to grab at it. I won't ever get snow tires as I think all seasons or all terrains are just fine.
I have never used dedicated winter tires until about 4 years ago, over the years, I have been able to get through the snow but had to plan accordingly. Sometimes I left earlier, sometimes I needed a running start to get through a sloppy intersection..granted this was with 2WD vehicles prior to the envoy.

With the envoy the 4WD was a nice welcome, sometimes the cross terrains didn't work to well in the snow, then sometimes the latitude tours didn't work to well, this was mainly with ice traction and braking performance.

Going back to your last sentence, once I acquired a dedicated set of winter tires, namely my set of Blizzak DM-V1's, I don't care how much snow or ice there is, or even if my wife needs to use it, that burden is lifted significantly since it will basically go anywhere.

The emergency braking on ice is where it's at, accident avoidance if it ever came to that. The worst snow I have had them in is on par with driving through a torrential downpour in the sense of me being worried about making it through......hope that makes sense. Rain isn't snow and ice but the point I'm making is unless there's about 2 feet of snow that will pack underneath lifting my tires....it's making it through and I rarely need 4WD with them.

The ground clearance on your PU and Blizzaks would prove unstoppable.

I also agree with RayVoy on the narrow tires having more traction due to higher weight loading per square inch. All season tires are a compromise....mud tires need evacuation and snow tires needs retention, snow grips snow and the tires need to hold onto some snow.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
As far as habits......I guess a quick pull on the handbrake to point the nose where I want then accelerate is easier than the front plowing through a turn. :biggrin:
 

Denali n DOO

Member
May 22, 2012
5,596
When the snow comes I put on my Toyo snow tires and carry on like normal. I use 2hi most of the time, rarely use 4hi except in deep snow getting the sled trailer parked. On snowy bad weather days in the city I turn traction control off. I find the G80 gets me through traffic lights and stop signs much easier than using traction control, it's more fun too. Tire pressure 35 psi all around. I love the Envoy in the snow, it's never let me down and I'm usually heading to where the snow is.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow :wooot:
 

smt 59

Member
Full tank of gas, all season tires at 32psi no added weight just consistent speeds and ease into lane changes and turns. Braking is knowing what's ahead and again easing into the stops.
 
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stickypoop

Member
Oct 14, 2014
872
RayVoy said:
Just my 2 cents, but you did ask for "thoughts", I'd risk getting stuck 100 times before I'd put something in the truck that would kill me in a roll-over
That's a very important side note. I was in a roll over with a tool box and a few tool cases in the back. Most of which ended up next to my head. Secure those bags :yes:
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
stickypoop said:
That's a very important side note. I was in a roll over with a tool box and a few tool cases in the back. Most of which ended up next to my head. Secure those bags :yes:
Not trying to get off topic here but... Welcome to the Nation! :tiphat: Interesting name...lol.
 

shepherd92683

Member
Dec 23, 2012
197
Winter tires period. If you haven't run them before you have know idea what you're missing. As for preference, Nokian R2's or I've had good luck with Blizzak WS70. Wider is NOT better for traction, only handling. It only makes you feel more of the road. I have an additional 300-400 lbs in the back with all my stereo equipment which helps me. Most importantly, don't drive like a your 4wd is invincible and you'll be fine! :thumbsup:
 
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meerschm

Member
Aug 26, 2012
1,079
learn to use the neutral tap.

they teach this up north,

you will find a light push of your gear selector will move it from drive to neutral. this is useful when you find yourself sliding, and drive wheels are fighting with braking. going quickly to neutral can be a lifesaver as you navigate that turn in an intersection and start to slide from where you want to go.


from http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/icesnow.html


Should you put your car into neutral during a skid?
Experts agree that during a skid it is important to reduce the forward motion of the vehicle in order to stop faster.
Many resources that promote putting your car in neutral describe the following technique:
  • Disconnect the driving force on the drive wheels by doing either of the following:
    If you're using automatic transmission, shift to neutral. However, if you cannot do that immediately, do not touch the transmission gear.
  • If you're using manual transmission, declutch.

Others promote leaving the vehicle in gear, but do not apply the gas during the skid. At the end of the skid, it may be necessary to gently accelerate.
Using winter tires and driving at a reduced speed are more important factors that influence a vehicle's stopping distance
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
No snow tires for me this year.... Can't find a decent set of used ones with better tread over my old ones yet and not in the budget for new this year, had to buy new summers unexpectedly earlier this fall. Don't travel much so I should be OK...
 

Purefection

Member
Oct 23, 2014
119
Full tank of gas, sidewalk blocks in the bed of the truck (200 lbs) without losing bed space, studded duratracs. Never had an issue
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Purefection said:
Full tank of gas, sidewalk blocks in the bed of the truck (200 lbs) without losing bed space, studded duratracs. Never had an issue

I hope those blocks are anchored down somehow...
 

Purefection

Member
Oct 23, 2014
119
coolasice said:
I hope those blocks are anchored down somehow...
Nah. They weigh 50lbs a piece, sit on a rubber anti slide mat, and are under a tonneau cover.
 

Harpo

Member
Dec 4, 2011
411
Sweden
Changed to my new Nokian hakkapelitta 7 SUV for the coming winter.
Nokian is amazing winter tires, had them on a couple of cars, never found anything better.
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Purefection said:
Nah. They weigh 50lbs a piece, sit on a rubber anti slide mat, and are under a tonneau cover.
ah, was on mobile, couldn't see what you were driving, figured it was a trailvoy
 
May 5, 2014
19
Well at 63 years old I have a little experience in this dept.
I've driven cars, pick-ups, 4x4's and even a motorcycle in the winter.
With my TB (6cyl. 2WD, G80) I have no problem.
In the city on snow I start out with the tires at normal pressure. The trans is in second and I feather the throttle on accelerating. Once I feel I'm fast enough I upshift into 3rd. Anytime I accelerate I feather the throttle. With this method I can usually keep up with any 4wd .

To brake I downshift to 3rd then 2nd, rather than get on the brakes hard. This lets me control the TB better.

With this method and the locking dif I've driven all over the US.

I did have one 4wd (30 years ago) but found that I don't need 4wd now.
 

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