Upper ball joint advice?

[mntb]

I'm looking to replace both upper ball joints.
I have never done something like this before.
Does anyone have any tips of advice for this repair?
Do's or dont's?
I have to rent the ball joint tool. I have heard that one stores ball joint tool does not work well or work right. But I can't remember which store. I have an o'reilly, auto zone, napa, and advance auto parts near me.

I have been thinking about purchasing an corded electric impact gun from harbor freight for some time now. Just to make my life a little easier. I don't have air tools or a budget to allow me to purchase air tools.
Would this job be easier with an such a tool to remove/install the ball joint? Or is it one of those jobs where it's best to use hand tools?

Thanks in advance.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

The tool is fine for upper, but sucks for lowers so no concern for you there.

You will be surprised how simple the upper really is. Good learning spot really.
I don't use impacts unless I have to. I would not even get one out to do the uppers. You are better off buying a torque wrench if you do not own one. I will never put wheel n tires on a vehicle without one unless absolutely forced to. They are fairly cheap and incredibly important.

 

[mntb]

I read a few step-by-steps. It sound pretty simple. From what I gather, the hardest part is getting the adapters to line up and the new ball joint to go into the knuckle straight.

I can't seem to find where I read it but something about the ball joint tool being too small or there was an issue where it didn't work well with the shape of the upper knuckle on the tbs/envoys. But this person rented a different ball joint tool from a different store and that one worked better. I don't know what the difference was though.

There are a few tools I need to get soon. A torque wrench is definitely one of them. But for right now my budget for tools or car repairs is very small due to my wife having an accident with her TB. Hers is still drive able. Just looks like someone punched it in the face.
Bought anither vehicle for her. Then the clutch went out in it after owning it for less that two weeks.
Has not been the best start to the year so far.

 

[Sparky]

The rental tool from Advance was more complete than the one from Autozone IIRC (more variety of adapters and cups).

 

[Nexus1155]

I hate to link it and from my phone too but i posted some pics here a while back depicting the EXACT cups so you have no guess work.

I spray them down with pb and have a pickle for to hammer in to the knuckle to get it loose and a bfh to hammer uppers off. If you are lifted or have bad control arm bushings it may be a good idea to replacr them now. (Decently cheap). Then torch it for a good minute or so. If they are siezed in there you could damage the tool or the bj making it sieze the cup in there and have to get a new knuckle(check out some of my previous threads). Then start cranking.

Obviously some cups work better for others but i tried the az and aap tool kit. The aap toolkit is complete in one shot. The az one has a kit for the tool. One for cups and one for gm bj that may work good but never tried it and costs a total of like $280.

Good luck!

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=44089&page=13#/topics/44089?page=13&_k=quqb42

My pics are on page 14.ish

 

[mntb]

Maybe that was the issue.

Anyone use the napa, o'reilly, advance auto parts house brand upper ball joints?

I'm guessing moog is the preferred brand?
Any other decent quality ball joints brands?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Moog is just higher price overseas crap these days. They bank on their name, but the quality just is not there anymore.

 

[Sparky]

So what do you recommend instead?

 

[Nexus1155]

True. I feel the same way about the Moog but i had a hard time locating another upper bj and had to get an ac delco. Believe me, the moog went in much easier. Also make sure when you line it up you grease the hole lightly and tap it in a bit. Hardest part is getting the old circlips off if they are siezed lmao. All you need are hand tools though. Not a torque measuring wrench but a big half inch wrench to give some nice leverage. Ie. Big metal stick.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

So what do you recommend instead?

AC Delco or just whatever is cheapest. Hate to people see pay up for quality that is not there anymore, so Detroit, Prime Choice, Moog, APW, GEs, or whatever is cheapest will get you same basic joint.

 

[mntb]

I've learned quickly doing jobs like this in the driveway /garage that leverage is your friend.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

So is beer

 

[Mooseman]

I'm not a video whore but this one is very good by ChrisFix.

 

[mntb]

I'm going pick up a breaker bar from harbor freight probably tomorrow afternoon. I have been meaning to get one for a while now.
Would the 1/2 drive 18" or 25" be most useful in the replacement or the ball joints and other jobs?

 

[Mooseman]

25". The longer, the better.

 

[gmcman]

Remove the two 10mm screws that hold the brake line to the backside of the vertical portion of the knuckle. This will allow the ball joint to clear the fender.

It's easier to have someone pull the assembly out so you can get a breaker bar to clear the fender, a rug or blanket over the fender will help to protect the paint just in case.

Don't forget to remove the snap ring first.

 

[mntb]

Well I successfully replaced both front upper ball joints. Was a lot easier than I thought. I thought the hardest part was funding and lining up all of the adapters on the tool just right.
I rented the tool from advance auto parts. At first I got the cheaper ball joints from there as well, however they required the boots to be pressed on or something. Returned those and got different ones from orielly's.
While replacing the passenger side, I discovered that the pass side cv axle boot was throwing Grease EVERYWHERE (transfer case side). What a mess. Replaced that as well. Also easy to do. But I get to replace it again since the used one I got is leaking on the wheel end this time.
Took me about 4.5-5 which includes about a drivetime of 1.5 hrs total to get the cv axle and orielly's ball joints. I don't think that's bad for a first time doing it.

Thanks again for the tips and the video link. I like Chrisfix's videos. They have been helpful for me at least as I'm a visual learner.

The only thing no one mentioned that I saw at least was the wheel speed sensor mount on the knuckles. Don't forget to remove those. Good thing mine is bad anyway.

Bottom line is if I can do it, just about anyone can do it with some mechanical ability. Just do your research, watch videos like chrisfix's and take your time.
A second body would have been helpful to hold the adapters but the job is doable with just one person.

 

[jsheahawk]

You fix one thing, and another pops up!

 

[mntb]

Yep, storie of my life. Actually two things popped up this time if you count my transmission issue.

 

[Lee]

I 2nd using the kit from Advance. Their inner tie rod tool works real good too.
I tried using the cheaper ball joint from Advance as well but it wouldn't fit to even try to press it in. You say you have to press the boot on? Maybe thats why lol. Fun fact the part number is exactly the same as the Moog, but the Moog was almost $100. Told them to shove that