Upper and Lower Control Arm Replacement Advice

[therealsethallen]

So, after 161k Miles (That's 259,000kms for you northerners) my lower control arm bracket bushings have finally given up their last hoorah, and my uppers have been pretty smoked for awhile. I've skated away most of the summer really not giving a rats ass about them but the truck is now pretty much unbearable at anything over 50mph, and it corners like complete garbage. My buddy is gonna help me with the lowers since I don't feel confident myself, but I'm going to tackle the uppers and the ball joints as well, It's going to be done Sunday since our local allignment shop isn't open on weekends.

I'm thinking Dorman for the uppers, Moog ball joints and either Dorman's brackets with their bushings, or Moog's press in bushings. We have access to a hydraulic wheel bearing press that will easily remove the bushings. or replacing all of the bushings in the front with Poly ones at a lower cost than ALL the Dorman/Moog parts. Or my last option, press in bushings off the shelf, because I know they now make them. I really can only afford the press ins right now, but I'm looking for guidance.

 

[webdawg]

Do you really need a press to remove the old bushings in the lower control arm?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I heard horror stories on the lower bushings so I bought full replacements but am yet to install them.

 

[blautens]

So, after 161k Miles (That's 259,000kms for you northerners) my lower control arm bracket bushings have finally given up their last hoorah, and my uppers have been pretty smoked for awhile. I've skated away most of the summer really not giving a rats ass about them but the truck is now pretty much unbearable at anything over 50mph, and it corners like complete garbage. My buddy is gonna help me with the lowers since I don't feel confident myself, but I'm going to tackle the uppers and the ball joints as well, It's going to be done Sunday since our local allignment shop isn't open on weekends.

I'm thinking Dorman for the uppers, Moog ball joints and either Dorman's brackets with their bushings, or Moog's press in bushings. We have access to a hydraulic wheel bearing press that will easily remove the bushings. or replacing all of the bushings in the front with Poly ones at a lower cost than ALL the Dorman/Moog parts. Or my last option, press in bushings off the shelf, because I know they now make them. I really can only afford the press ins right now, but I'm looking for guidance.

It took me months to assemble what I thought was all the right premium front end parts (Raybestos Pro, AC Delco Pro, etc.).

Learned much...oh so much. Starting with EVERY manufacturer says they "work with suppliers who build parts to our specifications".

Almost all upper control arms are Chinese sourced. I bought 5 or 6 brands - virtually all identical - *maybe* some slight bushing difference.

Lower control arms are somewhat similar, as are the lower control arm brackets. The brackets are so simple, it's ridiculous.

Pressing stuff in and out with the right adapter and tools - makes all the difference, because ideally, you'd press good bushings you can verify the quality of into the OEM parts. The bushings, any or all, and the ball joints and tie rod ends - there's where you can really make it tight (teeth rattling) or good enough to last for a year.

Having helped out with some other's at a friend's shop, the market has really gone downhill. even much worse than it was 5 years ago. Federal Mogul owns almost every brand, if they don't, one other company does. Two publicly held companies (Warren Buffet owns a big chunk of one) moving virtually everything offshore - you can buy 5 AC Delco Pro tie rod ends with the same part number and end up with 2 or 3 different crappy types - clearly offshored but from different vendors.

Oh, and if you decide to keep the brackets and press in your own bushings (even if you don't, really) scribe, outline, whatever it takes to put the bracket back in the same position - your alignment will thank you. If you do replace the entire lower control arms (or almost anything), think about re-using the OEM bolts. The replacements are slightly different sized, not of the same quality, and you might be very unhappy if you torque things to spec and end up pinching something or leaving it too loose.

 

[gmcman]

I went with the Moog lower control arm brackets, those brackets alone made the biggest difference in my front end being quiet and solid again.

Everything else was cumulative , upper control arms, hub and bearings, Bilstein HD cartridges, ball joints....but the brackets made the biggest difference.

I would highly recommend replacing both tie rod ends, lower ball joints (if worn) and both lower brackets at the same time, to capitalize on the alignment.

Ball joint replacement generally doesn't require an alignment , but tie rod ends and lower brackets will.

 

[therealsethallen]

I bought the complete Moog arms upper and lower. I plan to replace the steering rack as a whole in the spring with (Hopefully) a TBSS unit. They did say the tie rods were fine at the allignment shop. The uppers were easy, although there was some cutting to get the left front upper arm bolt off. I got it aligned yesterday and it feels like a new truck. It does need sway bar bushings still and that should complete the front end at least for the winter.

 

[blautens]

I bought the complete Moog arms upper and lower. I plan to replace the steering rack as a whole in the spring with (Hopefully) a TBSS unit. They did say the tie rods were fine at the allignment shop. The uppers were easy, although there was some cutting to get the left front upper arm bolt off. I got it aligned yesterday and it feels like a new truck. It does need sway bar bushings still and that should complete the front end at least for the winter.

Sorry - forgot to mention the frame gets in the way on the driver's side. You should read the GM SI on how to replace the unit - "Gently pry out in the inner fender to access the forward facing bolt". Ha!

Sounds like you got the majority of it squared away very well - you should be safe and sound. When I replaced my sway bar bushings at 90,000 miles they were really in great shape - didn't feel much different than the new ones I put in - so unless you see something obvious, I wouldn't sweat it too much. Besides, it's the sway bar links that probably have more play in them.

 

[therealsethallen]

I knew it did, I was ready for it. What a bitch, honestly. What kind of hair brained idiot designer thinks that's acceptable. I put the new bushings in this morning, and drove about 110 miles today. It was pretty obvious that it did nothing. I know I have new bushings, though. Links will be new in the next few weeks, gotta get through the holidays alright first.