- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
I just got done redoing front pads and rotors. Gee, wonder which one was causing all that grinding?
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To celebrate me finally setting up an account here... my old pads.
- Thread starter IllogicTC
- Start date
Wooluf1952
Member
Welcome In case you haven't heard:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/218-welcome-to-gmtnationcom-heres-the-story/
That was the inboard pad, right?
TexazReece
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 1,341
Envoy_04
Member
- Jul 1, 2013
- 749
Welcome! Glad to see another WV member on here, there were only two of us active, you make three! I'm from the Parkersburg area, but I spend a lot of time in Morgantown (I'm a WVU student) and some time in Summersville (got a cabin) - I've pretty well got the state covered! Where in WV are you?
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
I knew it was likely to happen. 102k miles, and I have a hunch it may be the original brake set (I bought it at 87k). For a long time, I didn't really have the money for anything like this, it was very paycheck-to-paycheck. Never had any squeal or anything though.
Well on the upside, I obviously have the money to do some fixing now.
On the downside, my workplace requires me to go up and down a (luckily smaller) mountain.
Yes, that was inboard, driver's side. Passenger was thin but still at least wasn't down to the metal, and not shaving the rotor down.
Major downside - I don't actually have a torque wrench. I went based off the feeling of how they loosened. Yes, I know, big problem. Like I said above, money, man (and Christmas, and one-week layoff). I'm planning on having one VERY soon to double-check all fasteners.
This is the first big repair I've done on this. Other than that, it's been oil changes and other stuff that is low-tier on the service level. I've done big repairs on other cars I've owned, but they were paid-off, and jalopy material, not something I took a 5-year loan on. What I've taken away from it beside a new-found knowledge in front brake repair is the trick is to know what you're doing, but not know that you know what you're doing. Even if it's been done 20 times, double-checking everything is key. As I did this from the start, no issues.
Well on the upside, I obviously have the money to do some fixing now.
On the downside, my workplace requires me to go up and down a (luckily smaller) mountain.
Yes, that was inboard, driver's side. Passenger was thin but still at least wasn't down to the metal, and not shaving the rotor down.
Major downside - I don't actually have a torque wrench. I went based off the feeling of how they loosened. Yes, I know, big problem. Like I said above, money, man (and Christmas, and one-week layoff). I'm planning on having one VERY soon to double-check all fasteners.
This is the first big repair I've done on this. Other than that, it's been oil changes and other stuff that is low-tier on the service level. I've done big repairs on other cars I've owned, but they were paid-off, and jalopy material, not something I took a 5-year loan on. What I've taken away from it beside a new-found knowledge in front brake repair is the trick is to know what you're doing, but not know that you know what you're doing. Even if it's been done 20 times, double-checking everything is key. As I did this from the start, no issues.
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Sparky said:Hey, I've done brakes for years without a torque wrench. Just make sure the bolts are tight and you're fine. Use the German torque spec gootentite
(heck I've done entire suspension work without a torque wrench...)
I suppose so. I guess I'm just fighting with my idealism of doing the job exactly how a manual and a professional says it does, and the reality of what I have at hand. For instance, most of my tools are Stanley, bought straight off the Wal-Mart shelf. I don't have high-grade stuff, no delivery guy, no lifetime warranties (if applicable). But it should make me realize, I'm NOT a professional. I don't even have a garage at my house, let alone a professional service center. I guess I should just get in the mentality of realizing I'm a "casual" and a "DIY-guy," I'm just worried about getting into the mindset so much that I get careless, just put things on however without using torque relatively around where it needs to be, etc.
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Side-note, all that grinding has left some rust dust deposits on my rims (aluminum 17", the ones with those gray painted stripes, plastic stud cover). I may get a little brake dust, I've only just broke in the pads, so I don't know. How to clean it?
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
Welcome!
I haven't used it on these wheels (ceramic pads??), but I have used any of the commercially available wheel cleaners for removing brake dust that you can get at Auto Zone or Wally World and a soft brush or sponge. Makes 'em look right nice! The one I currently have is in a semi-clear green bottle. Sorry, I can't think of the name of it right now and it's too cold to go out and look. Now that I have ceramic pads on the wife's Impala, don't really have much need for it...
I haven't used it on these wheels (ceramic pads??), but I have used any of the commercially available wheel cleaners for removing brake dust that you can get at Auto Zone or Wally World and a soft brush or sponge. Makes 'em look right nice! The one I currently have is in a semi-clear green bottle. Sorry, I can't think of the name of it right now and it's too cold to go out and look. Now that I have ceramic pads on the wife's Impala, don't really have much need for it...
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
IllogicTC said:
I hear you. No garage here, no delivery guy, no air tools... Just me, my home DIY-grade Craftsman socket set, and a few other tools I've gradually added to my collection. I did get a torque wrench but I find myself still not using it too often. Old habits for one I guess, but also sometimes there just isn't the room to swing a full size torque wrench when you are on a jack stand and not very far off the ground.
You do get a decent feel for how tight stuff is however. Maybe by breaking a few smaller bolts along the way like me lol. I tend to err on the side of too tight than loose, as usually there are more negative side effects to being loose than too tight. A lot of basic stuff is actually harder to make too tight than you may think, as the only negative of being a few ft lb too tight is usually just harder to get back off next time. Typically, brakes and most basic suspension parts are like that.
Usually, the way I see it:
Chassis/suspension = mostly "min torque", fairly forgiving on the max torque. Just using my ratchet here.
engine/transmission = mostly better darn get it right as a few pounds either way could screw you over.
At least this is how I've done stuff over the last 6 years that I've been doing my own work. I'm sure some will disagree with my methods, and some are probably right, and I could stand to learn something
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Sparky said:At least this is how I've done stuff over the last 6 years that I've been doing my own work. I'm sure some will disagree with my methods, and some are probably right, and I could stand to learn something
Half of why I'm here is to learn something. All kinds of things. I may not have personal experience on a subject, but I'm pretty well an info-sponge, and will happily regurgitate what I've read (while informing them it's just what I've read, or sometimes my own theory) while waiting for the real help to arrive.
Sometimes at least a place to start with a problem can get people rolling on their own without big instructions, or at least ease-of-mind because the "mystery" is gone.