- Dec 6, 2011
- 779
I am interested in what others have done for wheel alignment after replacing tie rod ends.
I did a lot of research and found most of what I read on the internet to be wrong. In many years of driving, I have found a couple of facts that I can trust:
#1 - The human eyeball can be as precise as a computerized wheel alignment machine if you take the time to get it perfect. The machine just makes it faster, not more accurate.
#2 - A computerized wheel alignment machine is only as good as the operator.
When we ran endurance racing back in the 80s, we used what were called toe plates to make toe adjustments in the pits. We would run a bit of toe-in on long tracks for stability at speed, and a slight amount of toe-out for short tracks for better bite at the beginning of the turn. They were just simple aluminum plates placed against the wheel, with slots front and rear for placing a tape measure through. They had a flare at the bottom for use on the ground for the tire bulge, but that was not necessary when the front end was jacked up.
I use a similar system to adjust toe in my driveway. I had to replace four outer tie rod ends on two Trailblazers the same weekend, so I was looking for ways to get alignment perfect without needing a $120 wheel alignment just to re-set the toe adjustment. All I needed was two lengths of 3/4" square aluminum tubing about 36" long, a couple of tape measures and two bungee cords.
If you have ever used the expression "close enough for government work" or even just "close enough," then I would recommend a professional wheel alignment. But if you can read a tape measure with preciseness - we are talking a 1/16 of an inch here - and are willing to crawl under your truck 40 or 50 times to get the alignment perfect, you do NOT need a professional alignment. You can even eyeball your toe to better than it is now. The only thing you are changing is toe alignment anyway when you replace inner or outer tie rod ends.
Ignore much of what you read on the internet. When replacing outer tie rod ends, don't worry about trying to measure the old ones and then the new ones. The dimensions and designs of the ends may differ, and a tape is not precise enough. Just count the number of turns when you remove the old ones and replace the new ones the same number of turns. This will get you in the ball park.
When you are finished installing the tie rod ends and tightened everything down except the jam nuts, reinstall the wheels but leave the front end jacked up off the ground. Center the steering wheel and then bungee two lengths of 3/4" square tubing (or any length of stiff and straight stake) across the wheel near the bottom of the tire. (See photo.) Both should be as high as possible while still allowing a tape measure to get from wheel to wheel, front and rear, and both should be the same distance up the wheel. Mine were about 7" from the bottom of the tire.
The tubing or stakes will rest on the tire, not the wheel, but don't worry about it. Ignore everyone on the internet who says you can't do it this way because of the tire bulge. If your tire bulge is inconsistent around the rim, you have FAR greater problems than wheel alignment!
Now, crawl underneath and adjust the inner tie rod end until both wheels are dead straight and both sides run EXACTLY parallel to the fender line. Recheck the steering wheel after every adjustment, and take the time to get it perfect. It will take 20 to 30 tries, and the last few will be about 1/8 of a turn at a time. You will need a few extra when you turn it the wrong way, but don't worry; we all do that. Just remember "righty-tighty; lefty-loosey" and the inner tie rod is turned clockwise (when looking inward) to move the rear of the wheel OUTWARD, and counterclockwise to bring the rear of the wheel INWARD. Keep eyeballing the tubing with the fender line while standing directly above it, and take the time to get it perfect.
Once you have both wheels exactly straight and both exactly the same, you are ready for the toe adjustment. The fender line is not exactly parallel but is close enough to get you in the ball park. The thing to remember is that both wheels should be exactly the same and the steering wheel should be dead straight. Now comes the fun part. Run two tape measures from side to side, and see what they read. (If you are working by yourself, just tape the ends of the tape measures to one of your square tubes.)
If you did it perfect, your measurements should read about 77" behind the tire, and 76" or so in front of the tire. This is called "toe-in" and the Trailblazer likes about 1/8" to 1/4" final toe-in. (Your actual measurements will vary from mine because of my aftermarket wheels.)
Now crawl back underneath and move both sides a slight amount at a time until the rear of the tire measures about 3/16" greater than the front of the tire. Work slow and careful, double check that the steering wheel stays dead straight and make sure both tires stay identical. Keep eyeballing the tubing against the fender line by looking down from above. When everything is perfect, tighten the jam nuts, lower off the jack and torque down the wheel nuts. (Don't forget t re-torque the wheel nuts in a week.)
If you are really anal like me, before you replace anything, jack the front end off the ground, straighten the steering wheel, attach the square tubing and measure your existing toe. Eyeball your tubing against the fender line, and see how far out your factory (or existing) alignment really is. Then you will see what I mean when I say you can use two lengths of square tubing, a couple of bungee cords, two tape measures and the ole mark I eyeball to be just as accurate as a computerized alignment machine when all you need to re-adjust is toe.
I did a lot of research and found most of what I read on the internet to be wrong. In many years of driving, I have found a couple of facts that I can trust:
#1 - The human eyeball can be as precise as a computerized wheel alignment machine if you take the time to get it perfect. The machine just makes it faster, not more accurate.
#2 - A computerized wheel alignment machine is only as good as the operator.
When we ran endurance racing back in the 80s, we used what were called toe plates to make toe adjustments in the pits. We would run a bit of toe-in on long tracks for stability at speed, and a slight amount of toe-out for short tracks for better bite at the beginning of the turn. They were just simple aluminum plates placed against the wheel, with slots front and rear for placing a tape measure through. They had a flare at the bottom for use on the ground for the tire bulge, but that was not necessary when the front end was jacked up.
I use a similar system to adjust toe in my driveway. I had to replace four outer tie rod ends on two Trailblazers the same weekend, so I was looking for ways to get alignment perfect without needing a $120 wheel alignment just to re-set the toe adjustment. All I needed was two lengths of 3/4" square aluminum tubing about 36" long, a couple of tape measures and two bungee cords.
If you have ever used the expression "close enough for government work" or even just "close enough," then I would recommend a professional wheel alignment. But if you can read a tape measure with preciseness - we are talking a 1/16 of an inch here - and are willing to crawl under your truck 40 or 50 times to get the alignment perfect, you do NOT need a professional alignment. You can even eyeball your toe to better than it is now. The only thing you are changing is toe alignment anyway when you replace inner or outer tie rod ends.
Ignore much of what you read on the internet. When replacing outer tie rod ends, don't worry about trying to measure the old ones and then the new ones. The dimensions and designs of the ends may differ, and a tape is not precise enough. Just count the number of turns when you remove the old ones and replace the new ones the same number of turns. This will get you in the ball park.
When you are finished installing the tie rod ends and tightened everything down except the jam nuts, reinstall the wheels but leave the front end jacked up off the ground. Center the steering wheel and then bungee two lengths of 3/4" square tubing (or any length of stiff and straight stake) across the wheel near the bottom of the tire. (See photo.) Both should be as high as possible while still allowing a tape measure to get from wheel to wheel, front and rear, and both should be the same distance up the wheel. Mine were about 7" from the bottom of the tire.
The tubing or stakes will rest on the tire, not the wheel, but don't worry about it. Ignore everyone on the internet who says you can't do it this way because of the tire bulge. If your tire bulge is inconsistent around the rim, you have FAR greater problems than wheel alignment!
Now, crawl underneath and adjust the inner tie rod end until both wheels are dead straight and both sides run EXACTLY parallel to the fender line. Recheck the steering wheel after every adjustment, and take the time to get it perfect. It will take 20 to 30 tries, and the last few will be about 1/8 of a turn at a time. You will need a few extra when you turn it the wrong way, but don't worry; we all do that. Just remember "righty-tighty; lefty-loosey" and the inner tie rod is turned clockwise (when looking inward) to move the rear of the wheel OUTWARD, and counterclockwise to bring the rear of the wheel INWARD. Keep eyeballing the tubing with the fender line while standing directly above it, and take the time to get it perfect.
Once you have both wheels exactly straight and both exactly the same, you are ready for the toe adjustment. The fender line is not exactly parallel but is close enough to get you in the ball park. The thing to remember is that both wheels should be exactly the same and the steering wheel should be dead straight. Now comes the fun part. Run two tape measures from side to side, and see what they read. (If you are working by yourself, just tape the ends of the tape measures to one of your square tubes.)
If you did it perfect, your measurements should read about 77" behind the tire, and 76" or so in front of the tire. This is called "toe-in" and the Trailblazer likes about 1/8" to 1/4" final toe-in. (Your actual measurements will vary from mine because of my aftermarket wheels.)
Now crawl back underneath and move both sides a slight amount at a time until the rear of the tire measures about 3/16" greater than the front of the tire. Work slow and careful, double check that the steering wheel stays dead straight and make sure both tires stay identical. Keep eyeballing the tubing against the fender line by looking down from above. When everything is perfect, tighten the jam nuts, lower off the jack and torque down the wheel nuts. (Don't forget t re-torque the wheel nuts in a week.)
If you are really anal like me, before you replace anything, jack the front end off the ground, straighten the steering wheel, attach the square tubing and measure your existing toe. Eyeball your tubing against the fender line, and see how far out your factory (or existing) alignment really is. Then you will see what I mean when I say you can use two lengths of square tubing, a couple of bungee cords, two tape measures and the ole mark I eyeball to be just as accurate as a computerized alignment machine when all you need to re-adjust is toe.
