Springtime Suspension Swapout

[Reprise]

Now with the cold weather about to lift, I just ordered a few things from Rock Auto...thanks to those who post the 5% discount info, I saved $17.50 on the order. That'll pay for about half of the shipping...

Moog upper ball joints / end links
Dorman UCAs / LCAs - hope the pre-installed lower ball joint holds up!

Unfortunately, they don't carry the Bilstein HDs, but I know where to get them.
They also didn't carry tie rods (although they had tools for them, etc.)

I'll be installing these next weekend along with front stabilizer bushings, which I already have stashed away.

Question - in addition to these parts, since I'm going to be removing a bunch of suspension components...is there anything else I should definitely change out, while I've got all of those things out? I'd like to stay away from the tie rods for now - but if it makes sense to 'do it now', I will - either inner / outer, or both.

Opinions? I know there are several 'suspension' threads, and I've read through a good portion of them - that's how I knew to spend a little extra for full UCA / LCAs, vs just replacing the bushings.

No, not 'all' of these pieces necessarily 'need' replacement - the local Firestone told me I needed driver-side ball joints when I purchased tires from them about a year (?) ago - but when they quoted $600 for the upper on that side alone - I decided to do it myself. If I do it myself, I know it's done, I used good quality parts, and I don't feel like I was 'sold the job', vs. having the shop do it. It just takes me a little longer.

I don't have any 4wd issues - so AFAIK, I don't need to mess with the front disconnect, etc.

 

[Mooseman]

The inners are not a high failure rate part so don't touch them unless you need to. Outers are easy enough to check.

You've got pretty much everything covered. If you're taking everything out, even though you said you don't have any issues with it, maybe take the disconnect out, take it apart, clean out the original congealed grease and freshen it up with some good synthetic grease. Might save you grief later.

 

[Reprise]

Thanks, Mooseman!

My other 'big' project that I want to get done before fall is to hunt down / kill an oil leak - from either the rear main, or the pan (and I suspect the former)

I'm thinking about having my tranny mech do that, as he has a lift (but if it is the main, one wonders why he didnt mention it when he R&R the trans last year - he had to know I would have given the OK to replace it. But I digress).

Anyway - with that job next on my list - I'm thinking about leaving for then, since the engine is probably going to come off the mounts, if not out of the truck.

So we'll see how the suspension goes, I guess. I get a little antsy about that disconnect, b/c I'm not well versed in 4wd.

 

[Mooseman]

A lot easier to drop the tranny than to pull the engine. Just be sure what is leaking. Could also be the oil pan.

You sure it's engine oil and not tranny fluid?

 

[Reprise]

Yep - I check the fluid on both - the tranny doesn't / never has leaked a bit of fluid, pre- or post-rebuild.

The motor, I have to put in an extra quart every so often (and it's been that way since I got it - but you can buy a lot of motor oil with the $800 or so it'll probably cost me to have a mech replace those two seals.

The reason I suspect the main seal is where the pattern of oil is - it has stained about the front 3" of the bellhousing on the trans (again, was this way when I got it.

The oil pan area, what you can see of it from the bottom, is also wet.

Top end of the engine (valve covers, etc.) - looks clean.

For all I know, *both* the main seal and oil pan gasket may need replacing. I intend to get it sorted out by fall, so I can run her full-time with confidence next winter, and have her all set for towing next summer.

 

[Reprise]

You've got pretty much everything covered. If you're taking everything out, even though you said you don't have any issues with it, maybe take the disconnect out, take it apart, clean out the original congealed grease and freshen it up with some good synthetic grease. Might save you grief later.

Found Roadie's (?) article on ORTB regarding the disconnect, and read all about it. Not so apprehensive about doing it anymore (except for getting that housing out, if it gets stuck - but plenty of tips here about getting it out without cracking it off in the oil pan, so I'm feeling OK about doing it now).

Blessings to Roadie for putting that article together. Awesome piece of work. Perhaps he'll visit again sometime and see this.

 

[Mooseman]

Before trying to pry it off, soak it with lots of PB Blaster for a good long while. Then, after getting the mounting bolts off (not the disco case bolts), try to hammer it up and down to make it spin within the hole in the pan. Spray some more. Once it's moved a bit, then start tapping on the end of it. Don't pry because that's when they break.

This video is pretty good.

Another option is to use a slide hammer on the body of the disco. It starts at 7:50 to see that: