NEED HELP SOLVED!!! : finally finished engine swap, now problem with gear indicator

crazyelvis3577

Original poster
Member
Oct 13, 2015
35
Tennessee
So after about a year or so i finally finished the engine swap on my 2003 GMC Envoy XL 4.2 I6. After hooking everything back up and reconnecting the battery my shift indicator isn't working. The indicator is a little line that lights up on the cluster under each gear so you know what gear you're in. I had replaced the Neutral safety switch and everything worked fine before I had the engine/trans problems. Now that everything is back together the indicator does NOT work on D321 but it does work on PRN. Everything seems to be working just fine except the indicator lights. What could possibly be the cause of this? Maybe a harness or neutral safety switch (even though it's practically new?). It's a very minor thing but I'd still like for it to work properly. Any help is appreciated!!
 

mrrsm

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Supporting Donor
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Oct 22, 2015
7,700
Tampa Bay Area
Start by searching among the many videos available on Youtube that show “How To R&R the GM Instrument Cluster” for your vehicle… and before you begin... obtain a tube or container of Dielectric Grease. Pull the Blue Power Connector located at the bottom center of the Instrument Panel and after spraying down the Connector Pins with some CRC Electrical Circuit Cleaner… after the components are dry… apply a small amount of the Dielectric Grease to all of the Pins. Then FIRMLY insert the plug into the Instrument Cluster and apply pressure to all sides of the Connector Harness. Leave everything disassembled temporarily and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the Accessories Position.

Turn on the Head Lights and cycle the Dimmer Switch up and down a few times to ensure that all of the Bulbs and the FULL PRNDL321 LEDS light up and remain so. Start the Engine in the driveway and with your foot on the Brake... very slowly cycle the shifter through all possible positions and return it to the PARK Position. If all the lights works… no further actions beyond re-installing the Instrument Cluster and Dash Panel Fascia are required. If the problem persists… move on to the below links for some more specific help.

Post Message #10 Specifically covers How to Repair & Re-Solder the Power Connector to the Dash Panel MOBO:

http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/oil-pressure-coming-and-going.16357/#post-519899

This one cover the R&R of the General Gauges and Bulb Lights that also includes Soldering Tool Kit useful in this R&R:

 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,681
Tampa Bay Area, FL
The non DIC gear indicator display doesn't contain individually serviceable lights like the majority of the cluster. So if it was indeed a lighting issue, I don't think it is, it would be a royal pain to desolder the display, and obtain a new one elsewhere to replace it.

Polarity-NonDICCluster.jpg


There are cluster repair shops that may be able to do it for you, the alternative is to buy a used cluster with working displays, and have a shop reprogram the mileage to reflect what you have. (this is much more common and some online vendors offer this service if you buy from them)

I think your issue could be related to Park/Neutral switch wiring that leads to the PCM. Looking at the wiring diagram for the transmission (from @Mooseman 's Need service manuals? Get them Here! thread) you can see the 4 lines leading to the PCM are different signals for the PRNDL inputs. The switch is in the bottom center of the pic, PCM runs the length of the left side.

Auto%20Transmission%20Large.jpg


Zoomed in image...

Auto%20Transmission%20PN%20Switch.jpg


If the issue sprang up after putting everything back together, I'm guessing that one of those lines is for D321, and got damaged during the reassembly process. May be a pain in the ass to trace and track down, but a much easier and cheaper repair than cluster work, and much more likely to be your issue IMO. :twocents:
 

crazyelvis3577

Original poster
Member
Oct 13, 2015
35
Tennessee
SOLVED!! Hey thanks for everybody's help. I have solved the issue. I got "new" $1 connectors from a junkyard and wired them in and now everything works as it should. Right now the connectors just have wire nuts and tape but I'm ordering brand new connectors and hardwiring them so everything should be fine once that happens. Apparently the old connectors had some kind of glue on them not allowing them to seat properly and get good connection. I scraped and cleaned the "new" junkyard connectors to fit better. So once I get the brand new plugs everything should be good to go.
 

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