Sliding sway bar

Petey

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
105
Sorry if this has been discussed (I did a quick search and found nothing).


Last summer I replaced both links with moogs becuse they were clunking. I has been quiet untill now that its Frost heive/pot hole season. I checked and the bolts are still tight. I did notice that the whole bar slides effortlessly from side to side. I can feel the clunk in the steering column when it happens.

I have not hit any major holes to cause any other damnage that I know of.


Time for bushings?
 

Einst-Hawk

Member
Jan 31, 2014
105
I would definitely say it's time for bushings, if you already checked for make sure the bar isn't damaged and the bolts are tight.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Like previously said, it's totally time for bushings. Easiest way to tell for clunking over bumps is to bang on the sway bar in different spots. If you hit the sway bar with your hand where the links attach and it clunks, your end links are shot. If you hit the sway bar in the middle by your engine or the axle then your bushings are shot. I know 100% your bushings are shot as you should not be able to move it side to side at all. There is an actual lip on the sway bar that prevents the sway bar from moving side to side when the truck is moving. I noticed on my truck that the rear bushings were egg shaped from being worn so bad and the fronts were just rounded over on the outside edge. The front's were not in bad shape but I figured since I was doing the rears, why the hell not just do the fronts too, ya know? It is a super easy job to do. If I can recommend something and if you have the tool for it, I recommend using some long extensions and an impact gun to get the nuts and bolts loose for the sway bar bushings and do them both at the same time. Some say to do one side at a time so as to avoid shifting the sway bar from one side to the other and messing up the alignment of it but it is so much easier to slide the new ones on and off with both bushings disconnected.

I also recommend using something like PB blaster or your personal choice in penetrating oil to assist in getting those rusted studs loose. Trust me, it is possible to do it by hand but the bolts on mine were so rusted that I could hear my wrist cracking every time I moved it. haha.

Finally, I also recommend using something like wd-40 to assist in getting the front sway bar bushings on. I know some others will say not to use that on the bushings as it can cause premature wear but i'll tell you my problem. The rear bushings are super easy to spread open and fit on the sway bar. The front bushings are damn near impossible to spread open and fit on the sway bar itself. What I did was install the bushing on the outer part of the sway bar and spray some wd-40 on the inner part of the bushing and slide it into position that way. Once I got close to the position the bushing should rest in place at, it was next to impossible to move so I know the wd-40 ran dry from me sliding it into place but just my little tip on that.
 
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AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
Sil-Glyde is safe to use on rubber. It will not deteriorate rubber like petroleum will.

12024852_ags_bk4_pri_larg.jpg
 
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kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
actually now that I think of it, I did use the silicone version of wd-40. It is in a yellow top instead of the red. Good point to use that as a lubricant for sliding the bushing on. Probably works better than a liquid spray like I used but oh well, it worked good and is still doing well.

OP: Depending on your front sway bar setup, if it is like mine which is not as shown in the repair manual, it may be a PITA to get to the one bolt on each side for the retaining piece that keeps the bushing mounted to the frame. I found that using a wobble extension worked great. I would not recommend using a u-joint style socket as they are super easy to snap when you have to torque the hell out of a bolt to get it loose from the rust. And since I always do it just in the event my truck lasts long (it's already getting rust through the paint on the rear quarter panel, damn road salt) I put anti-seize on the threads.
 

Petey

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
105
Thanks! Adding that to the spring chores list.


PB blaster is a good friend of my mine, but oxy acetylene is my best friend at times.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Be warned with the oxy acetylene that you will be burning rubber. one wiff of the fumes from that and you will be coughing up your lungs. trust me, I did that just on the rubber and grease from the damn sway bar end links. Also be careful if you torch there with the gas tank.
 

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