NEED HELP Shift solenoid issue?

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
IMG_1986.JPG So I was changing out the 1-2 & 3-4 shift solenoids and the shift soleniod farthest away from the oxygen sensor(drivers side) I had the rod come out some, it didn't pop out, the other shift soleniod just popped out, but no rod came out, I was able to put back in and the soleniod with the spring clip is what is keeping the rod from coming out, I have a feeling this isn't normal or is it? First auto tranny in a long time
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I'm pretty sure the solenoids need a little force to get back in. The plastic wire harness should pry down from the bolt heads to ease removal of the wires from the solenoids.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
I'm pretty sure the solenoids need a little force to get back in. The plastic wire harness should pry down from the bolt heads to ease removal of the wires from the solenoids.

IMG_1988.JPG
Ok shift soleniod closest to Foward/Reverse Acculturator when I popped out the old soleniod the rod that the soleniod uses to shift came out a little, when I replaced the other soleniod no rod came out, is this normal?
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I'll try to post a pic but one should have a spring within the bore and one should not. So if one rod is pushing out then that should have the spring....should be the 1-2 solenoid.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I think you can check this with the valve body in place, if so, make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston isn't cracked. ...honestly I can't remember if you can remove the housing or not, one part of it is above the separator plate.

All those valve body bolts are 96 inch pounds.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
I'll try to post a pic but one should have a spring within the bore and one should not. So if one rod is pushing out then that should have the spring....should be the 1-2 solenoid.

No need for the pic that helped a lot, yes it was a spring that felt when I was pushing the soleniod back in, didn't expect it since the other soleniod didn't do the same thing. I put the dorman pan on just in case and will finish in the morning, I didn't expect it to take so long but I'd rather finish when I'm not so tired
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Remember to torque the pan bolts evenly. Torque to 100 inch pounds and go around the pan 3 to 4 times, you will notice the pan bolts will stop turning after about the 3rd time around.

I've never had a pan gasket leak doing it that way.
 

AzTruckGuy

Original poster
Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Remember to torque the pan bolts evenly. Torque to 100 inch pounds and go around the pan 3 to 4 times, you will notice the pan bolts will stop turning after about the 3rd time around.

I've never had a pan gasket leak doing it that way.

I'll have to exchange the torque bar at Autozone tomorrow morning, the guy gave me the bar that requires the larger socket set, he had a smaller one for the regular sockets, I had a feeling I should have grabbed that one. I just hand tighten the pan in case I had to take it off, now I don't. Thanks a lot for the info from a 4L60E newbie
 

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