Saab 9.7x air suspension problem

[Lonestar245]

I have a 2009 Saab 9.7x with rear air suspension. The truck just turned 70k miles. Was working perfectly, then I took it out to dinner Friday evening and noticed it had a pretty bumpy ride. Looked at it in the parking lot and it did look low in the rear. Today, I was going to take it out again, and noticed the low stance, so I checked the fuses and relays, did not find a problem- however, that manual is a bit cryptic, and I am not sure if I checked all that need to be checked. I did identify fuse #1 as the Elec. Controlled Air Suspension- 30A.- and its good. Also the big #68 "Air Pump" fuse- also good. Checked relay #69 "air solenoid" by swapping out with known working solenoids and found no improvement.

Normally I would hear the pump come on if it needed air. Somewhat typical to hear it at start-up, but not always. I did hear three clicks coming form under the (right?) rear as I was going around checking on things but never heard the pump come on.

Reading here and there about Trailblazers, Envoys, Bravadas, etc..., I realize this system likely operates each side independently, with a ride height sensor at each wheel, and dual outlets on the pump. Seems overly complicated compared to my Navigator which uses a single outlet on the pump and a splitter at the back to split off to each bag, and a single ride height sensor. Whatever, it is what it is. That said, since both sides are down, I suspect a pump problem- like maybe it went out a day or so before and it has taken a bit of time to bleed down. Otherwise, if it were a single bag, it would have sagged to one side first, before blowing out the pump from trying to level it? Still doesn't make sense that it never blew a fuse.

Well, looking for tips on what I should check and in what order.

I should mention I owned it since it was new. Wife drove to and from work all these years, and now I am working it in construction. I would not consider it tough going by any means, as it is usually only a few yards off pavement and in the grass on the side of a roadway. Also, no towing, ever. And I only carry maybe 50 lbs of gear with me. so not much of a load. Replaced tires and xfer case fluid recently and inspected the bags and they looked good, FWIW.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Instrumental]

You can test te pump by hitting the button for the inflator in the cargo area. That should let you narrow down a little bit.

Two sides aren't independent, FYI.

 

[Lonestar245]

You can test te pump by hitting the button for the inflator in the cargo area. That should let you narrow down a little bit.

Two sides aren't independent, FYI.

What inflator? I dont think my truck has this. There are three compartments in the rear cargo area and all three are empty.

If they are not independent, how does the system work with a sensor on each side?

Could I switch it to a single outlet pump and put a "T" on it to serve both sides? I have a new pump for my Navigator that I never used.

 

[jrSS]

Open the rear hatch....and to your right will be a plastic door with the inflator. Push the black button and hopefully it'll turn on

 

[Lonestar245]

Open the rear hatch....and to your right will be a plastic door with the inflator. Push the black button and hopefully it'll turn on

I see one compartment on the right, one on the left, and one under the floor in the cargo area. There is nothing inside any of these. The side compartments are solid plastic. None have holes to allow anything to come into them from outside the compartments. There is nothing in the 2009 Owners Manual mentioning an inflation device.

If I understand correctly, the pump has with two outlets- one going to each air bag.
The instructions on Arnott site show a black and a clear air line, one going to each bag from the pump.
Are there are two ride height sensors- one at each wheel?
Does the pump have some sort of diverter valve to direct air to the side that is asking for it?

Not that it matters, but if you have the inflator, where does the line for that connect to the pump?

 

[The_Roadie]

Hmmmmmm, learn something new every day. Saab must have not included the tire inflator subsystem with the air ride compressor. Very odd that they wouldn't have a location for the LED that flashes the error codes when something fails. Does the Saab Owner's Manual (I've never seen a PDF) mention an air ride system error code flashing LED?

Anyway, the compressor has four valves, two for each air bag. One to apply compressed air TO the bag for inflation, and one to vent the bag for deflation. The control module looks at each ride height sensor and decides whether the bags need to raise or lower the vehicle. If the compressor dies, or if a hose leaks and the pump is called on to run excessively, or if a sensor circuit dies from a broken sensor or wiring harness, there is supposed to be an error LED that flashes a code to give you a hint of the problem. If Saab doesn't have this LED somewhere in the vehicle, I'd be surprised.

The compressor is NOT connected to the main data bus, which is the reason for the lame LED. Otherwise a Tech II tool could interrogate the module (like the ABS or the SRS modules) and ask it what's wrong.

You can replace parts using the Arnott units, or swap in coil springs and be done with it.

 

[floridafitz]

Agree with the option suggested by Roadie....replace with springs and be done with it. That's what I did after my replacement pump failed, and like you, I had no specific need for the air bags. No towing or heavy loads. Be advised, the ride will not be quite as comfy without the bags, but the difference is minimal. Well worth the loss of worry over another air system failure and the inconvenience/expense.

 

[jimmyjam]

Not that it matters, but if you have the inflator, where does the line for that connect to the pump?

passenger side cubby

 

[Lonestar245]

Hmmmmmm, learn something new every day. Saab must have not included the tire inflator subsystem with the air ride compressor. Very odd that they wouldn't have a location for the LED that flashes the error codes when something fails. Does the Saab Owner's Manual (I've never seen a PDF) mention an air ride system error code flashing LED?

Anyway, the compressor has four valves, two for each air bag. One to apply compressed air TO the bag for inflation, and one to vent the bag for deflation. The control module looks at each ride height sensor and decides whether the bags need to raise or lower the vehicle. If the compressor dies, or if a hose leaks and the pump is called on to run excessively, or if a sensor circuit dies from a broken sensor or wiring harness, there is supposed to be an error LED that flashes a code to give you a hint of the problem. If Saab doesn't have this LED somewhere in the vehicle, I'd be surprised.

The compressor is NOT connected to the main data bus, which is the reason for the lame LED. Otherwise a Tech II tool could interrogate the module (like the ABS or the SRS modules) and ask it what's wrong.

You can replace parts using the Arnott units, or swap in coil springs and be done with it.

Thanks Roadie- pretty much the same way my Navigator works, except it only uses one sensor, and one airline for both bags. The info on "not connected to the main data bus" is helpful too, as I dont see any indications on the instrument panel of a problem, and lacking the LEDs in the rear, I am led to look elsewhere. Looking through the owners manual under Instrument Panel" I scanned all the various waring lights, as well as the warning messages that can be displayed in the DIC window (ODO, Trip, Fuel used, possible ice on road, etc...) NOTHING about the "Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System" (what I will now call the "ECASS" for shorthand)

I Read up on the section under ECASS and it describes the components-
compressor, two air bags, two ride height sensors

how it works-
only with the key on
has internal clock to prevent overheating- if it overheats, it shuts off till it cools down
and here is the kicker- it says "during this time, the indicator light on the air inflator switch will be flashing" LOL. WHAT air inflator swith?????
it mentions overload protection- which should not be an issue with me.


This morning, I tired it again, and nothing happened. So, I got access to pump by removing the tire and I first tapped the compressor with a hammer with the engine running to see if maybe it was "stuck". I THINK I heard some movement during the initial taps, but it might of just been me banging on the fender liner at the same time. I could not duplicate it.

I removed the compressor in an attempt to find a way to hot wire it to see if it was working.

It should be noted there was still some slightly compressed air in each bag, as it bled off as I unscrewed the respective hoses. I suppose even a bag with a pinhole might hold some slightly compressed air, but I am doubting there is a bag problem at 70k.

After removing the assembly and looking at the plug with what- 8 connections?- I realized I would not only need a 12v source, but to know which terminals to connect 12v to, as well as which to jumper to get the thing to activate. Since so scant info on this system is available, I doubt I will be coming up with that, unless one of you folks have it.

Now here is where I might help someone else if they end up needing air suspension parts for a GMT: Having been down this road before with my Navigator, I started looking for the part in/on (?) alternative websites, since I know Arnott sells these parts through Amazon, eBay, etc.... and prices vary. I believe I purchased the Nav kit directly form them, but at the lower eBay price last time. This time, I also searched the OEM part number - 25978169 -, and found a couple of GM parts suppliers who were even cheaper. But more importantly, I found a vendor I use a lot for Volvo parts also handles the Arnott (OEM) pump, and although they are not the cheapest, they offer all their parts with a LIFETIME GUARANTEE:

"What happens if my part fails in 10 years?

If the part did not meet your expectations send it back and we will refund you or send you a replacement. You can also order a replacement and send your original part to us afterwards, we'll then credit you the cost of your new replacement."

The site is FCP Euro, and here is the page for the pump: Saab Air Suspension Compressor (9-7x) - Arnott 25978169 | FCP Euro

They also sell the OEM air spring - and I bet they can get the improved Arnott air spring, and they sell the coil conversion.

Now, back to my problem, any thoughts on testing this pump before I do something stupid like buy a new one only to find out I did not need it?

 

[Lonestar245]

passenger side cubby

That is quite nice. Mine is empty.

Is this a LWB vehicle, or would that matter.

Looking at a parts diagram here- COMPRESSOR. Air Suspension Compressor. LEVEL CONTROL SYSTEM/AUTOMATIC. GMC # 25978169, 25878674
I see the 2 versions in the 2 product images.

 

[Lonestar245]

Just so you know I'm not the village idiot...

View attachment 30821

And I plan on keeping the air ride. I had good luck with replacing the bags on my Nav, and they have been trouble free ever since. If I need this motor and can get it with lifetime guarantee, I will go that way.

 

[jimmyjam]

That is quite nice. Mine is empty.

Is this a LWB vehicle, or would that matter.

Looking at a parts diagram here- COMPRESSOR. Air Suspension Compressor. LEVEL CONTROL SYSTEM/AUTOMATIC. GMC # 25978169, 25878674
I see the 2 versions in the 2 product images.

that is what it looks like in my SWB 2006 Trailblazer SS. Interesting, apparently yours is the 2nd diagram. Part #17 is the part that goes into the cabin. On yours it is only the air intake tube, it used to have a wire harness and air outlet going through that same grommet. I always wondered if having to retool an assembly line for one model year is really worth incremental cost savings?

 

[The_Roadie]

Since so scant info on this system is available, I doubt I will be coming up with that, unless one of you folks have it.

You're new here, aren't you?

View attachment 30822

 

[Lonestar245]

You're new here, aren't you?

View attachment 17708

Well, probably a month or so now?
Thanks, I'll see if I can make sense out of that and see if this thing wants to pump air.

 

[jimmyjam]

since the PN for the compressor in both diagrams are the same I assume your compressor still has the C2 connector on it, just no plug for it. You could get some gator clips and wire and LED (with appropriate resistor, in case its 12V) and mimic the switch by grounding the A pin

If you'd like to "upgrade", I'd be willing to give you my inflator switch, bezel, harness, and accessory bag for cheap. haven't had a compressor in my truck for some time.

 

[Lonestar245]

since the PN for the compressor in both diagrams are the same I assume your compressor still has the C2 connector on it, just no plug for it. You could get some gator clips and wire and LED (with appropriate resistor, in case its 12V) and mimic the switch by grounding the A pin

If you'd like to "upgrade", I'd be willing to give you my inflator switch, bezel, harness, and accessory bag for cheap. haven't had a compressor in my truck for some time.

View attachment 30823
This is what the business end of my compressor looks like. I was about to try and figure out the pin out. Is C1 is the top left and C8 is bottom right, looking at the plug-in on the motor, with this pump oriented in the way it is mounted on the vehicle (as pictured)?

Your post intrigue me regarding hooking up an LED, but since I am not plugged into the car right now, I figure it is easier to "hotwire" the motor and see if it will pump. I am going to study this diagram, and based on if I am understanding the pin out correctly, give it a go.

If anyone wants to volunteer the info on how exactly I should do this- which pins to apply + and - 12v, and which to jumper to activate motor- I would be much obliged, as I am a bit shaky with this schematic.

Update: looking at the schematic again, I realize I am not clear on the pin out at all. the "con ID" at the top indicated the under hood. So I am clueless as to how this should be connected.

 

[jimmyjam]

View attachment 30832

these are views of the plug so its the mirror image of whats on the compressor.
place 12V on H & G, ground on D of C1

 

[Lonestar245]

Awesome! When I get back home I will be testing this.

Thanks!

 

[Lonestar245]

So if I am reading this correctly, I need to invert my photo to match the orientation of your pin-out drawing, and the mirror image would be like this?

And I am putting 12v+ to G & H and 12v- (gnd) to D?

This seems incomplete. Dont I need to send a signal to the unit via other terminals to cause it to turn on the motor?

View attachment 30833

 

[jimmyjam]

looks right to me

if you have the car nearby, it is always a good idea to cross reference the wire colors on the plug to be sure

 

[jimmyjam]

So if I am reading this correctly, I need to invert my photo to match the orientation of your pin-out drawing, and the mirror image would be like this?

And I am putting 12v+ to G & H and 12v- (gnd) to D?

This seems incomplete. Dont I need to send a signal to the unit via other terminals to cause it to turn on the motor?

Ground Pin A on C2 and it should kick on. connect cathode of an LED to pin C (ground the other side though a resistor) to see if it flashes or whatever

 

[Instrumental]

FYI. My 2007 Saab has the inflator. Seems silly that they put in the air ride and not this convenient feature. Cost savings?

 

[Lonestar245]

Ground Pin A on C2 and it should kick on. connect cathode of an LED to pin C (ground the other side though a resistor) to see if it flashes or whatever

Someone earlier brought up the fact that to delete the inflator as a cost savings would be an odd idea for just a few vehicles. It gets worse. That unused connector for the inflator (C2) has three tiny green rubber seals placed down inside the connector cavities, and a purple plastic retainer cap. some of this has to be removed to access terminal A.

View attachment 30837

i put 12v DC+ on C1-G & H, and 12v- on C1-D, and then ran a paperclip with 12v+ down into the C2-A cavity. Crickets. could I have missed making contact somehow?

I then tapped C-1 terminals A, B, E and F with the paperclip. Zip.

Am I missing anything? Or is this just dead?

BTW, Stopped into Radio Shack to get some test leads and found this:
View attachment 30838

 

[jimmyjam]

Someone earlier brought up the fact that to delete the inflator as a cost savings would be an odd idea for just a few vehicles. It gets worse. That unused connector for the inflator (C2) has three tiny green rubber seals placed down inside the connector cavities, and a purple plastic retainer cap. some of this has to be removed to access terminal A.

c2 has a plug with no wires on it connected to it to keep debris out. in the pic above where you labeled the pins, on C2, above the purple part, is a clip. push it down and pull on the plug and it will come off, C2 will look a lot like C1. will be a lot easier to be sure you are jumping the contacts. jumping contacts on C1 won't do anything, don't bother.

 

[Lonestar245]

c2 has a plug with no wires on it connected to it to keep debris out. in the pic above where you labeled the pins, on C2, above the purple part, is a clip. push it down and pull on the plug and it will come off, C2 will look a lot like C1. will be a lot easier to be sure you are jumping the contacts. jumping contacts on C1 won't do anything, don't bother.

Your exactly right. Even removing the green plug does not allow access to the pin- that I can tell. Looks like there is something plugging it from the back side of the cover as well. Confirmed that I had the right pins by checking the wire color on the truck. Your diagram is for the plug, not the pump, so it is a mirror image as discussed, and my labeled photo is correct. Removed the cover for C2 and accessed the correct pin. Applied 11.5v DC from my battery charger (according to my multi-tester) and nothing happened. Double checked all connections. Nothing.

Went out to the vehicle and checked voltages at the plug. With key on and/or engine running I found if I tested H (battery 12v+) to vehicle ground, I got 14v (12.5v key off).
G+ to vehicle ground shows no voltage.
H(Ignition 12v+) to D(gnd) shows no voltage and G to D shows no voltage.
Went back to fuse box under hood, pulled and checked fuses 1 and 68 with multi tester and they both show zero resistance (good).

I am not one to climb under my car on jack stands (too old), so if I need to look for a wiring harness issue under the vehicle, it will need to go to the shop Looking at the diagrams it appears the wiring specifically for this unit is fairly protected. Cant say about the rest of the harness as it heads back to the front of the vehicle. Would expect it to be fairly protected inside or at the top of the frame rail. I'm have not been driving through any scrub that could reach up and grab anything. Mostly grass/weeds, and most of that has been mowed so its 12" or less. I did hear a scrape as I hopped a curb a couple of weeks back, but everything was fine at that point.

 

[Lonestar245]

Ground Pin A on C2 and it should kick on. connect cathode of an LED to pin C (ground the other side though a resistor) to see if it flashes or whatever

I don't have a loose LED or resistor (value?) on hand. I wonder if I could use a 12v cigarette lighter to USB adapter with a built in LED to accomplish this?

 

[Lonestar245]

I kept mulling on the idea that current is not being supplied from C1-G "Ignition 3 Voltage" to the pump. There should be 12v+ at that terminal when the key is on. Tester showed nothing at that terminal with the key "on".

Studied the schematic and eventually traced the problem to a misplaced 15A "4WD" fuse.

I never expected a "4WD" fuse would be involved in this, but it shows up in the schematic to be connected via the rear fuse box. I had puled it when I had a tire problem to disable the 4WD system. I had also pulled the 4WD fuse in the front fuse box, and that lit the 4WD warning icon in the instrument panel. Having the rear 4WD fuse removed produced no warning lights. Another funny thing- I had been driving many hundreds of miles w/o the pump running. It took maybe two weeks for me to notice it. Guess the air bags are in good shape!

Hats off to Roadie for providing the schematic. Would not have ever figured this out without it.

Now on to the next problem...

 

[Jkust]

To add a +1, my 07 9-7 has the inflator as well. I actually thought you might be the village idiot until you posted the pic showing no inflator.

 

[dwright406]

To add a +1, my 07 9-7 has the inflator as well. I actually thought you might be the village idiot until you posted the pic showing no inflator.

As does my 06 9-7x, I'm stumped as to why your 09 doesn't have one.

 

[Lonestar245]

As does my 06 9-7x, I'm stumped as to why your 09 doesn't have one.

Either cost cutting, or was part of an option package that was not on my truck. No matter, I carry an inflator that came in a nice tidy package with a bottle of Slime. Less wear and tear on the trucks pump, although I never use the pump I have anyway. Instead I just call my insurance company (my policy has roadside assistance) and they send a guy out to change the tire.

The only reason we have this truck is because when my wife was returning her '06 Cadillac CTS lease car to the dealership, she wanted to get back into something "higher up". A quick look at the sticker of the Caddy CTS wagon ($50k+) and we both just laughed. The dealer (Sewell in Dallas) also sold GMC, and she deemed the Acadia off limits due to the tracks in the floor in front of the rear seats. She often hauls around high end clients, and feared they would get their high heeled Parda's stuck in those open rails designed to let the rear seats slide forward. As a last resort, the salesman showed her the 9.7x, which listed around $42k, and mentioned they were discounted $15,000.00. I seem to recall she got him down to $25k, and that seemed reasonable for what we were getting. SOLD!

While the automotive press was beating them up for being so behind the times compared to its rival mid-sized SUVs, we really like the power, the way it rides and handles, and all the nice features crammed into it. Plus, when pulling into a valet situation, most these guys have no clue its not a Saab, and often make positive comments based on that nameplate on the hood.

 

[Jkust]

Either cost cutting, or was part of an option package that was not on my truck. No matter, I carry an inflator that came in a nice tidy package with a bottle of Slime. Less wear and tear on the trucks pump, although I never use the pump I have anyway. Instead I just call my insurance company (my policy has roadside assistance) and they send a guy out to change the tire.

The only reason we have this truck is because when my wife was returning her '06 Cadillac CTS lease car to the dealership, she wanted to get back into something "higher up". A quick look at the sticker of the Caddy CTS wagon ($50k+) and we both just laughed. The dealer (Sewell in Dallas) also sold GMC, and she deemed the Acadia off limits due to the tracks in the floor in front of the rear seats. She often hauls around high end clients, and feared they would get their high heeled Parda's stuck in those open rails designed to let the rear seats slide forward. As a last resort, the salesman showed her the 9.7x, which listed around $42k, and mentioned they were discounted $15,000.00. I seem to recall she got him down to $25k, and that seemed reasonable for what we were getting. SOLD!

While the automotive press was beating them up for being so behind the times compared to its rival mid-sized SUVs, we really like the power, the way it rides and handles, and all the nice features crammed into it. Plus, when pulling into a valet situation, most these guys have no clue its not a Saab, and often make positive comments based on that nameplate on the hood.

Interesting...I am as conservative of a person as there is, where my cars are concerned. I needed something that can tow and has all the appropriate tow related stuff for my heavy boat and my snowmobiles but needs to look nice. I'm an executive and every now and then bring clients around when they come to town. I've actually gotten compliments on my 9-7 from guys who all drive much higher end cars but see the SAAB and aren't sure how to take it. Basically I need capability but need to look the part but take all the money that a much more expensive suv would have cost and save it. The only thing imo that looks crappy on the 9-7 is the temperature adjustment/dual climate control module that looks like it came straight out of 1995. You'd be surprised at the rich guy comments I get from neighbors/parents of kid's friends who know we have money but don't know their cars and just assume that if I'm driving it, it must have been expensive. Whenever we need a car, I can generally find the chink in the armor of totally bastard vehicles that look nice, are capable but were just sales failures and so cost very little.