Ride improvement

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
My 03 TB rides kinda soft and squishy. Bouncy on bumps. I tow a 4000 lb trailer and it does well with that, but the ride needs improvement.
So what is the best thing to do to make the ride more solid? Air bags in the back? New struts in front?
I am on a budget but want to do what I can with what I have. Suggestions? Thanks
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
How many miles? If you're over 50K, it's overdue for good shocks. Almost every one of us uses aftermarket HD Bilsteins. Many, many discussions about what part numbers to buy and how to put them in. Easy in the rear, a bear in the front, requiring the use of strong spring compressors.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Like Roadie said the rear is super easy to replace the shocks on. The front wasn't too bad being my first time ever doing strut work. I just jacked up the whole front of the truck with the rear wheels chocked and parking brake applied. I then put jack stands under the frame one on each side then for each side I took the strut tower out of I had put another jack stand under that to support it and prevent it from falling down all the way.

The hardest part for me on the front end was to get the yoke off the bolt on the lower control arm but after awhile of trying to pry it off with a pickle fork and air hammer I used a handheld sledge hammer and put the retaining nut on the bolt and gave it a few hard blows to the rear of the truck and it popped loose. The next tricky part was to get the shock out of the top of the yoke. I used the same sledge hammer to hold the shock in my hand (after I removed the spring and everything else to risk breaking something and having it let go in my hand and hurt me) and kept banging on the yoke until it came off. It took me 3 hours to do the front end but as with all first jobs the first one took me 2 hours, the next took me 45 mins, the rest of the time was stepping back and thinking of what I needed to do to get them off and keep myself safe.

edit: I also have all bilstein HD shocks on the truck and love it. I don't feel any bouncing on the road like I did before they were replaced. It also glides over bumps on the road so it is a very smooth ride. I am extremely happy with the bilstein HD upgrade over the stock shocks but mine were on their way out. The rears were totally shot along with the springs. I could compress the shock with my hands by holding one end with one hand and pushing them together with my arm. The fronts had some play like this in them but I couldn't get it more than 1/2" to go in by hand before having to put it on the ground and push down on it. Do the bounce test on your truck, push down on the front of the truck (I did mine on the cross frame that is above the radiator) if when you start bouncing on it the truck bounces more than 1.5 bounces, its time to replace them. Do the same with the rear but push on your bumper.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
There are quick struts out there if spring compressors make ya nervous
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Ahhhh, I keep forgetting about Monroe (and somebody else also) makes these units that also include a new spring. They're a bit of a compromise to keep the cost low, so the spring and the shock and upper mount aren't absolutely top quality, but the installation is a LOT easier for the driveway DIYer.

But if you were in a salt-using state, or one with intensely hot summers, and had deteriorated rubber in the upper shock mounts, they might be a low-cost alternative because it renews everything at once. And the install could be under an hour per side without the danger of the pent-up force of compressing a couple thousand pounds of spring.

Another thing some owners do is take their strut off in the driveway, then bring it in to an independent mechanic with a moosy wall-mounted spring compressor, and just pay the shop to do the dangerous part. Some folks report only having to pay the shop $40-50 a pair for that service.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
I like Bilsteins. I put a set on a motorhome I used to have ...made a huge difference in the ride. So no air bags needed for the rear?
I will look into getting the shocks, I have a local shop that will put them on for not too much $$
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I have Airlift 1000 bags in my rear coils, to give me additional lift for offroading, and to compensate for tongue weight when I tow. Yes. $100 for the bags, and then you can use a Schrader valve to manually adjust them, or one of many compressors to do it more automatically. But they only compensate for cargo or tongue weight; they really don't improve the "ride" as hugely as new shocks will. And you can do them at any time in a separate project from the shocks.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Mine was like that when I got it. Bilstein HD and no more squishy bounce.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Honestly I was scared to death doing the struts myself but if you have in impact gun you will be safe if you're smart. I rented the strut spring compressor from advance auto and what I did was use my impact gun but sprayed the threads on the spring compressor so it could slide without any binding. I would do it on each side for 3 seconds each so to keep it evenly applied. Then I grabbed my locking pliers and put them around the inner part of the shock where the piston is and then used the impact gun to take off the upper bolt that holds the strut mount on. Then with the spring off the strut I whacked the yoke free from the strut and did everything reverse. I will be making a little guide later this evening of what I did. I did not do my upper balljoint bolt at all.

If you are doing it yourself, get an impact gun, nice handheld hammer, some pb blaster to soak old rusty bolts, some anti-seize, I used a 2 step ladder to get up over the fender while the truck was jacked way up in the air but you don't need it, just makes it easier to get in the engine.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Until they deteriorate and you notice.

Some folks tolerate bad shocks for 100K miles or more. Some folks notice them at 50K. Some OEM shocks last 200K and some last 20K. It's impossible to predict, and whatever fails next on the vehicle will surprise you. All you know is that your new shocks AREN'T going to be the next failure.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
Like Bill said they all vary. Mine are totally the OEM ones and they lasted until 136k before I had enough of the bouncing motion from driving over bumps. My rear ones were totally shot, I could compress them with my hand from holding it with one end in each hand and pulling it together. New ones I had to stand on to get them to compress. My front ones I could compress them by hand too but not as bad as the rears. My rear also needed new springs as before I loaded the rear down with my system it was sagging a little and after the system it really sank down and the mud flap would scrape the road over bumps and getting in and out of driveways. lol.

I just made this article on what I did to remove and replace my front shocks. It is pretty long but I wanted to make it as detailed as possible for people. It is really not hard to do if you take your time.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/11173-replace-front-shocks-without-removing-upper-ball-joint/
 

Lonestar245

Member
Sep 6, 2013
35
I have been thinking about replacing shocks/struts on my 9.7x with 85k+ miles. They are not really totally worn out, but I'm beginning to notice the ride is less "firm".

Having good luck with Monroe OESpectrum struts on my Volvo, I thought I might give the Monroe 171341 Quick-Strut Assembly for $110.00 delivered (Amazon).

Or...
Amazon also sells AC Delco 903-015RS Professional Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for $116.00 delivered

But...
As you guys all seem hot on the Bilstein, and since they dont offer a complete assembly, I am wondering about the related factory parts- specifically the strut mounts? Did you also replace them, or do the factory parts tend to last a long time? My Volvo S80 eats the strut bearings and spring seats (seperate components) with equal voracity as the struts themselves, and I am lucky to get 75k on expensive OEM parts, with aftermarkets being far less.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Always plan on replacing the mounts. By the time the shocks are bad, the mounts are going to be worn out too. I used Moog replacements. Not bad, I think $20 something each or thereabouts.

*edit* Moog K6702, $30 or so.
 

smt 59

Member
I had replaced mine with Monroe's and within a year replaced with Bilstein as the quick strut was such a poor ride and lousy handling, they just don't take the bumps very well. I did reuse the spring though.
 
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6716

Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
Lonestar245 said:
I have been thinking about replacing shocks/struts on my 9.7x with 85k+ miles. They are not really totally worn out, but I'm beginning to notice the ride is less "firm".

Having good luck with Monroe OESpectrum struts on my Volvo, I thought I might give the Monroe 171341 Quick-Strut Assembly for $110.00 delivered (Amazon).

Or...
Amazon also sells AC Delco 903-015RS Professional Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for $116.00 delivered

But...
I did the quick struts for my daily driver here. The Bilsteins are definitely the "enthusiast" move. When I lift, I'll go that way. Other than that, the monroes have been great for me. I was bouncing quite a lot by the time I swapped out, though. Still, I move through town pretty quickly, brake hard, and corner fast, and they work for me.
 
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Pittdawg

Member
Dec 5, 2011
538
I originally installed the Monroe Sensa-Trac in the front and Monroe Reflex in the back as they didn't offer reflex in the front. The Sensa-Tracs were TERRIBLE. Conversely, the reflex' were absolutely great. I returned the Sensa-Trac's and replaced with Bilsteins in the front. I'm very pleased with the ride with this combo, much less mushiness and sway than the oem shocks.
 

BuckeyeEvan

Member
Apr 1, 2012
63
Pittdawg said:
... I returned the Sensa-Trac's and replaced with Bilsteins in the front. I'm very pleased with the ride with this combo, much less mushiness and sway than the oem shocks.
I put in the Blistein HD in front and I too lost the sway going into my driveway and bounce over highway bumps. I see control on the road very important. I think my OEMs went 'bad 'around 45k. I did notice while test driving these vehicles used, each one had a different ride some poor and some smooth. So I think bilstein didn't put much quality control into the OEMs they did for GM.
 

Lonestar245

Member
Sep 6, 2013
35
These are some very interesting comments! I expect they used different shocks/struts depending on brand (Chevy, GMC, Buick, Saab, Isuzu, Olds). Saab claims they tuned the suspension for sporty handling. I have driven my 9.7x over 85k, and it still is taught, but starting to show its age. I suspect they put in a better quality part to begin with. Problem is, how would it compare to Bilstein, and can the OEM still be had, or are parts houses (Amazon, Rock Auto...) just throwing out generic part numbers that will fit?

I did put some Sensatracks on a Suburban once, hated them unless I had it loaded down. Way too mushy.
 

6716

Member
Jul 24, 2012
822
Lonestar245 said:
These are some very interesting comments! I expect they used different shocks/struts depending on brand (Chevy, GMC, Buick, Saab, Isuzu, Olds). Saab claims they tuned the suspension for sporty handling. I have driven my 9.7x over 85k, and it still is taught, but starting to show its age. I suspect they put in a better quality part to begin with. Problem is, how would it compare to Bilstein, and can the OEM still be had, or are parts houses (Amazon, Rock Auto...) just throwing out generic part numbers that will fit?
If you dig around enough on here in suspension threads, you'll find a Roadie comment that the platform was built with a number of different suspension set-ups, depending on ... well, I don't know what it depended on. But the spec, though, I'd guess. Is the V-8 heavier than the I-6, necessitating a different strut? LS to LT to Envoy to Saab?

So, in theory, there is a "right" spec for your ride which is quite possibly different than the "right" spec for mine.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
the difference was the spring not the shock for all those.

Not sure if there was any shock difference on the Saab or not. If there was I'd suspect it would be closer to the Bilstein HD.
 
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kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
The shocks should not be different at all between the 2. They may be different if you have an airbag setup though.
 

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