Replacing HVAC Door Actuator

SnowBlazer

Original poster
Member
Jun 9, 2014
5,775
Colorado Springs
Hey everyone! The HVAC Door Actuator strikes once again...I believe I have the right one, but before I buy I would like to run it by you guys to make sure it is the right one.

Amazon Link

Also, is this relatively easy to instal? I stopped by the OS and it looked like all I need to do is drop the foot panel and unscrew the 7/32 bolts and replace...

Thanks for your time!
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
It looks correct via picture, but i don't remember the part number.

When I recieved mine, the white external gear was so far off it wasn't funny. I took the broken one apart and took the external white gear off to see how it meshed with the blend door. It's naturally going to fall closed, so I opened my new actuator and set the external white gear in that position. Whatever you do, do not change the relation of the blue gear to the one it meshes with. You'll have another useless actuator.

Edit:
I used Dorman 604-110, bought it via advance auto parts online with a coupon under $40 and was the blend door for dash vents and floor vents.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I have no air to my top vents now Ryan, so going through the same issue. From my research Ryan, the only way to replace these is to take the dash out. You can see 3 by looking up and to the left when laying under the drivers footwell, but it's impossible to reach & maneuver by hand even when removing the tube under the footwell that blasts heat to the drivers feet.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Yup....not hard, but a nuisance for sure..... And I know with one of these actuators (on passenger side) you have to cut part of the metal frame of the dash to get access to replace iirc....
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
(Sorry couldn't edit these pictures into my last post on Tapa mods)
Here's a diagram of the HVAC actuators and their function Ryan and a picture of the dash torndown
uploadfromtaptalk1421985050027.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1421985061813.jpg
 

SnowBlazer

Original poster
Member
Jun 9, 2014
5,775
Colorado Springs
Thanks Aaron for all that info!! I think it depends on which one is failing. You and I both have the floor/dash vent failing, which is going to be on the far driver's side, so I don't see the reasoning behind pulling all that. But, I've never done any of this so I'm not 100%. Hopefully Bill (Roadie) could shine some light.
 
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Capote

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Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Anytime Ryan [emoji41]
My floor ones work though, but like you I have no upper vent air blowing or vents for the defrost either. I don't see how you could replace the ones located behind the footwell area without pulling the dash. Like I said from looking myself, there is literally no room to move any tools, let alone your hand up there. Yes I too hope someone more inclined can she's some light on the replacement of these actuators.
 
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Capote

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Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I don't want a stealership touching my rig....got too much extra wires for mods back behind the dash
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
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Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA

BrownHP800

Member
Mar 19, 2014
91
Which activator are you replacing? I just changed the blend door activator in my 2002 and it was not a bad job at all. I did not have to remove the dash or anything. Just had to unsnap the plastic duct work for the floor heater and was able to access the actuator. Mine was the middle of the 3 on the driver's side.
 
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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Sorry I haven't been visiting for a while. I see my graphic is being used. Problem with that one is I did the research for my 2004, and it turns out (and the details of this escape me but I posted about it on trailvoy) that 2002 was rushed into production with mutant actuators and wiring, and some (but not all) of the actuators are unique to 2002. A bit more research is needed to come up with a better list of actuators that should (to be most useful) include the new aftermarket alternatives that weren't available 8 years ago. Volunteers always appreciated.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
BrownHP800 said:
Which activator are you replacing? I just changed the blend door activator in my 2002 and it was not a bad job at all. I did not have to remove the dash or anything. Just had to unsnap the plastic duct work for the floor heater and was able to access the actuator. Mine was the middle of the 3 on the driver's side.
So you were able to reach it? Looked real tight of an area to work with. So was that the actuator for switching the air from floor to upper vents?
The_Roadie said:
Sorry I haven't been visiting for a while. I see my graphic is being used. Problem with that one is I did the research for my 2004, and it turns out (and the details of this escape me but I posted about it on trailvoy) that 2002 was rushed into production with mutant actuators and wiring, and some (but not all) of the actuators are unique to 2002. A bit more research is needed to come up with a better list of actuators that should (to be most useful) include the new aftermarket alternatives that weren't available 8 years ago. Volunteers always appreciated.
So disregard that picture you put together roadie in terms of part numbers?
 

BrownHP800

Member
Mar 19, 2014
91
Capote said:
So you were able to reach it? Looked real tight of an area to work with. So was that the actuator for switching the air from floor to upper vents?
So disregard that picture you put together roadie in terms of part numbers?
Yes it was the actuator that changes from floor to dash vents. Mine would not go completely to the floor vents and would click. Turns out it had 2 broken teeth inside.

It is a tight fit but I bought a little palm ratchet from harbor freight and with a 1/4 drive 7/32 socket I could easily get to one of the 2 bolts. The other bolt there was just about enough room for the socket only to fit on the head of the bolt. I put the socket on and then used a small pair of vice grips on the socket to break it loose. Once the bolts were broken loose I could turn them by hand just using the socket. On my 2002 I had to use a home made puller to pull the actuator off the shaft which worked much better than I could have hoped. I think in newer models that is not needed and they come off with just a little force.

It probably took me about an hour total. Most of that was just trying to figure out to position myself under the dash and have a light shining where I need it to go and not in my eye.

Hope that helps a little.
 
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Capote

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Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
BrownHP800 said:
Yes it was the actuator that changes from floor to dash vents. Mine would not go completely to the floor vents and would click. Turns out it had 2 broken teeth inside.

It is a tight fit but I bought a little palm ratchet from harbor freight and with a 1/4 drive 7/32 socket I could easily get to one of the 2 bolts. The other bolt there was just about enough room for the socket only to fit on the head of the bolt. I put the socket on and then used a small pair of vice grips on the socket to break it loose. Once the bolts were broken loose I could turn them by hand just using the socket. On my 2002 I had to use a home made puller to pull the actuator off the shaft which worked much better than I could have hoped. I think in newer models that is not needed and they come off with just a little force.

It probably took me about an hour total. Most of that was just trying to figure out to position myself under the dash and have a light shining where I need it to go and not in my eye.

Hope that helps a little.
That does help actually, that's the actuator that is broken on mine. I guess I'll be picking up a small ratchet like you described. My neck was killing me just trying to look up under there, I can't imagine awkwardly lying there to change it out. Gonna be needing some good migraine medicine for this lol
 
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struble571

Member
Mar 5, 2012
13
Hello everyone. Ironically I'm having the same problem (I think) as SnowBlazer. I did what May03LT said I should'nt do and had to change out my battery. In doing so I had to disconnect it, and shocker my HVAC does not work. All five speeds now do not provide any air coming out of them. I'm seeing everything from tearing down your dashboard to just opening up the glovebox and replacing one of the actuators. So my question is, which one is it? How do I know which actuator is bad and what is the exact part I need? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Trkdrvremt

Member
Oct 22, 2014
351
NJ
Is the fan blowing at all in any speed? Or are you just not getting air to flow at specific location that you're selecting?
 

struble571

Member
Mar 5, 2012
13
When I was heading into work on Saturday afternoon I would have to put the knob onto the third setting to get some air flowing out. When I got off the train on Sunday night and got in the truck there was no air flowing out on either of the settings. No air on the floor, windshield or cabin. Nada!
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Yeah that isn't an actuator malfunctioning, blower issue
 

Capote

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Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I don't recall off the of my head
 

mrwitty_1

Member
Jan 28, 2014
90
May03LT has a youtube video of the repair only done on a Silverado same applies to the GM 360. It will not let me post the link but just go to youtube and search for his videos. I have watched them all he does a terrific job ! Thank You May03LT !
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
What am I looking at/hearing Ryan?
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Of the actuator?
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
So on the actual HVAC controls?
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
That's weird, never heard of that issue
 

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