So I'm removing my transmission so I can replace the main seal and main cover gasket. Any tips for removing trans? Never pulled the transmission out of a trailblazer before
Removing Trans for main seal leak.
- Thread starter Zack2003
- Start date
I've done this 6 times now on the three different 4.2L GMT360's, but the same will apply for your 5.3L minus the starter removal, it's a pretty straight forward task. Sounds like you've done this before on other vehicles, so no offense if I state obvious things with this task.
Here's a few things I make sure of when doing this:
-Leave the top two bolts in partially before you drop it, to make sure all transmission and fuel lines are clear, wiring harnesses are clear, and you've got the transmission steadily balanced on the jack. Do the same thing with reassembly, do the top bolts first right after you position the transmission in place and get it seated on a protruding guide that's on the passenger side. It makes sure the trans is in line with the rear of the engine.
-Blue Loctite is your friend, add to all bolts on the drive shaft straps, flex plate, and torque converter. I also used a paint marker on all the torque converter bolts as well as the flex plate to check for any walking themselves out, had it happen before with the torque converter (forgot to put Loctite on one bolt before).
-It also wouldn't hurt to add some RTV sealant below the rear main seal area,to further reduce the chance of any oil leaking from this area
-Clean any gunky/burned up oil at the rear of the engine real good with some Gunk Engine De-greaser, stuff works wonders. I marked the areas that needed cleaning.
-Putting a latex glove with a bunch of electrical tape around the end of the transmission tail shaft will hopefully keep any transmission fluid from spilling all over the floor.
-When reassembling, make sure the torque converter is fully seated as far back as it can go by turning it until it slides back, then rotating it around again until it slides back once more. If it's not seated properly, it'll break this plastic piece on the pump shaft (can't recall what it was at the moment). You'll know if it broke if it's not even going anywhere in reverse out of the garage.
----Interesting fact:----
Why did GM made this part plastic? As a fail-safe, to save the rest of the transmission pump from an issue that would otherwise cause catastrophic failure to the pump as a whole.I have a pictures from my bud's wife's EXT pump that we replaced below:
Broken plastic part:
You can see how the plastic part of the pump here keeps all those small pieces in check and in a certain position (left) vs. the right, where half of it is all cock-eyed:
Healthy unbroken plastic:
-When reassembling, bolt the transmission mount on the tail shaft before you put the cross-member in, makes everything much easier.
-When reassembling, make sure the transmission dipstick seal is in place, as well as make sure you fully seated the dipstick in place before you jack the transmission up fully and put the cross-member in. It's a PITA to put it in place once everything is bolted up already. It's doable, but it's difficult because of lack of space and not being able to see what you're doing. If the seal isn't there or if the dipstick isn't in all the way it'll spew transmission fluid all over the exhaust pipe every time you take a sharp left turn (speaking from experience; dip stick wasn't in all the way the first transmission rebuild install I did)
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Mooseman
Moderator
This thread has more info specific to removing the tranny from a 5.3L V8. It's more labour intensive to get to the torque converter bolts due to the removal of the starter.
Flex plate cracked: do I need to pull
Flex plate cracked: do I need to pull
This is Seriously Good Piece of Instruction that not only deserves its own "Sticky"... The Author deserves his Own "Sticker", Too... Props to @Capote for this "5-Star" Post!
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Sorry it never notified me that someone posted.
Guys I seriously appreciate the information!!
Guys I seriously appreciate the information!!
Anytime brother
I made a more in-depth thread using that info I posted by the way.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads...stallation-on-4-2l-gmt360s.17037/#post-534203
So while the transmission is out I'm going to take the passenger exhaust manifold out and try and get the 2 broken bolts out. If all that goes alright could I start it without hooking the transmission back up just so I can check for exhaust leaks ? I know it will throw a lot of codes but I can clear those. Just want to check beofe I install the Trans and turn around and have to remove it again
Recently, one of our Members, @rizzo20 penned a clever fix for the problem of Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts that involved a neat trick of a device that eliminates having to drill out a Broken Stud or the need for the use of Heli-coils to repair the Engine Head on the GM 5.3L V8 Motors ...assuming that the Broken Studs you are dealing with can be accessed and helped by the use of this device:
EDIT:
One other unusual thing to look for after you fasten down the Exhaust Manifold and start the engine without the Transmission installed ...is a "Rhythmic Ringing" Noise that seems to emanate from the Flex-Plate area. One member... @holytornado87 discovered that instead of the noise being a "Cracked Flex-Plate"... the actual, external noise was coming from a section of Broken Off Ceramic Core that was rattling around inside the bottom of his Catalytic Converter when his 4,2L Engine was idling. It took him quite a lot of time and effort to discover the source of the problem.
However...This issue can be easily diagnosed and discovered painlessly... by using a Plastic Dead Blow Hammer and while the engine is off and ice cold... just tap very lightly at the bottom of the steel containment cans of the CATS and if you hear any "Tinkling Noise"...it will be coming from a similar lot of one or more Broken Ceramic CAT Core pieces...rebounding against the inner portions of the metal cans. Likewise...if this problem is discovered...replacing the offending CAT would best be done if needed while the Transmission is not back in place. ;>)
EDIT:
One other unusual thing to look for after you fasten down the Exhaust Manifold and start the engine without the Transmission installed ...is a "Rhythmic Ringing" Noise that seems to emanate from the Flex-Plate area. One member... @holytornado87 discovered that instead of the noise being a "Cracked Flex-Plate"... the actual, external noise was coming from a section of Broken Off Ceramic Core that was rattling around inside the bottom of his Catalytic Converter when his 4,2L Engine was idling. It took him quite a lot of time and effort to discover the source of the problem.
However...This issue can be easily diagnosed and discovered painlessly... by using a Plastic Dead Blow Hammer and while the engine is off and ice cold... just tap very lightly at the bottom of the steel containment cans of the CATS and if you hear any "Tinkling Noise"...it will be coming from a similar lot of one or more Broken Ceramic CAT Core pieces...rebounding against the inner portions of the metal cans. Likewise...if this problem is discovered...replacing the offending CAT would best be done if needed while the Transmission is not back in place. ;>)
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Mooseman
Moderator
And yes you can start it without the tranny in place. One member did that trying to find a knocking noise. Just don't spin it too fast. Inspect the flywheel carefully for any cracks prior as there have been several failures ad of late.
OK great! From all the research I have done the best way is to weld a Nut on the broken bolt and then take it out. So that's what I'm going to try. There broke off flush with the manifold so once removed I'll have some sticking out to weld to. Just as long as the remaining 4 don't break when removed I think I will be good
midnightbluS10
Member
Before you loosen them, try tightening them until they just move. Then loosen them. That will save you A lot of broken bolts. Especially when dealing with rusted exhaust bolts. I would go pick up a can of Kroil or another known good penetrating oil, also. PbB Blaster is one that a lot of people use.
One Last "Cool" thing to investigate is using the CRC "Freeze-Off" Spray that uses the principle of Super Cold to first Shock-Chilll down the Metal Components with a steady 30 second spray... and this causes them to shrink at very different rates. Within seconds of this thermal phenomena... the Super Penetrating Lubricant quickly works its way down and in and around the most difficult of rusted up nut-bolt combos...(O2 Sensors respond very well, too.)
Have a look at this video. I have had great personal success with using this product while removing the Tri-Bolts at the mating of the Bottom Exhaust Manifold take-off flange and the CAT Pipe...using just my fingers on one occasion! This stuff is quite remarkable:
Have a look at this video. I have had great personal success with using this product while removing the Tri-Bolts at the mating of the Bottom Exhaust Manifold take-off flange and the CAT Pipe...using just my fingers on one occasion! This stuff is quite remarkable:
OK guys ready to put the transmission back in and have a question how do I know if the torque converter is seated fully? I didn't take it out it stayed in the Trans and doesn't appear to have moved but I want to make sure. It's spinning good if that means anything
Mooseman
Moderator
@Capote , I believe that is your specialty. He did post a link to his other thread that explains it a bit.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/key-points-for-4l60e-removal-installation-on-4-2l-gmt360s.17037/
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/key-points-for-4l60e-removal-installation-on-4-2l-gmt360s.17037/
Hey brother, you'll find the info you need in my thread that Mooseman linked in the post above.
Since I never took the TC out and I have spun it while pushing in and it never moved I should be good. Or should I pull the TC out and then reinstall it?
Spin the Torque Converter slowly, while applying some force to it to see if it slides back at all. If it doesn't move back anymore, then its still seated properly. And once you've got everything lined up again before you bolt the trans and engine together, check one more time.
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Well she's done!! Thanks for all the help guys!! While I had the Y pipe out I went ahead and fixed my exhaust leak. 2 broke studs on the passenger side in the head. 1 I was able to use vice grips on the other one I had to weld a nut. So no more exhaust leak and no more adding a quart every 150 miles!!
It took longer then I wanted. I don't have a shop so I did it in the driveway and as always it rained every day I was off of work so it slowed the process down a lot I had about 25 hours in the job. Alot of that was the exhaust and taking the manifold to the machine shop to be resurfaced. The other thing that took forever was the Torque converter bolts took almost 4 hours for 3 bolts. Finally got a 3 foot breaker bar and put everything I had and they went. I don't know why they were that tight in there
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Just having some fun with you, brother...no need to defend yourself (to me or anyone else.) If you had stated you were a pro mechanic, that would be a bit different (although I wouldn't have commented in that case as I did with you.)
No - I'm impressed you did this - and outdoors, no less. I'm probably going to let my mech do mine, when I take the truck in for its 1yr checkup...on the tranny he had to rebuild for me when I shat the bed with it last year.
Anyway...enjoy your holiday, knowing you saved yourself $800 or more
No - I'm impressed you did this - and outdoors, no less. I'm probably going to let my mech do mine, when I take the truck in for its 1yr checkup...on the tranny he had to rebuild for me when I shat the bed with it last year.
Anyway...enjoy your holiday, knowing you saved yourself $800 or more
Mooseman
Moderator
@Zack2003 , if you feel the site has been helpful to you, would you consider donating a buck or two to The Tip Jar? All proceeds go towards keeping the site and its info online.
Or even better yet, become a supporting member!
Or even better yet, become a supporting member!
No I wasn't defending myself I was in full agreement with you it did take longer then I wanted. But I appreciate it!Just having some fun with you, brother...no need to defend yourself (to me or anyone else.) If you had stated you were a pro mechanic, that would be a bit different (although I wouldn't have commented in that case as I did with you.)
No - I'm impressed you did this - and outdoors, no less. I'm probably going to let my mech do mine, when I take the truck in for its 1yr checkup...on the tranny he had to rebuild for me when I shat the bed with it last year.
Anyway...enjoy your holiday, knowing you saved yourself $800 or more
Mooseman
Moderator
It ALWAYS takes longer than expected. Well, except for brakes hubs. Done enough of those that I can do them blindfolded. 
And I know how you feel, especially after having done an engine swap in my driveway in July
And thanks for the support brother!
And I know how you feel, especially after having done an engine swap in my driveway in July
And thanks for the support brother!