0340 is actually pretty specific. "Camshaft sensor missing." Either the sensor is broken, or the wiring leading to it is. Below the oil fill cap on the front of the engine, right below the top "plastic" part, there is a little sensor held in by a single bolt with a harness with 3 wires on it. Check the sensor, and check all wiring. I'm unsure if the 12V reference is also supplied via the TAC fuse or not. I mean, it appears to be the case, I can't 100% confirm but I am at least 65% certain. What this is telling me that the PCM now knows that stuff should be powered (including the cam sensor), and it's not getting anything from the cam sensor, at all.Whoy said:replaced #23. two codes P1512, and now 0340. wtf is going on? now there is something wrong with the camshaft
well i did have to replace the belt tensioner about a month ago. the bearings went out on it. is it a wire or obvious piece i will notice.Whoy said:0340 is actually pretty specific. "Camshaft sensor missing." Either the sensor is broken, or the wiring leading to it is. Below the oil fill cap on the front of the engine, right below the top "plastic" part, there is a little sensor held in by a single bolt with a harness with 3 wires on it. Check the sensor, and check all wiring. I'm unsure if the 12V reference is also supplied via the TAC fuse or not. I mean, it appears to be the case, but I can't currently go out and test this theory.
It is common when people are playing around the front of the engine that an errant tool (especially when messing with the tensioner or fan clutch) breaks the cam sensor.
Yes. Also, I revised my post that you quoted to include some other possibilities but I think we're getting in the right direction with this tensioner replacement. There's a 3-wire harness that's directly down from the oil filler cap, literally right below where the plastic valve cover ends and the metal cylinder head begins. It's hard to miss.Whoy said:well i did have to replace the belt tensioner about a month ago. the bearings went out on it. is it a wire or obvious piece i will notice.
Yes. Also, I revised my post that you quoted to include some other possibilities but I think we're getting in the right direction with this tensioner replacement. There's a 3-wire harness that's directly down from the oil filler cap, literally right below where the plastic valve cover ends and the metal cylinder head begins. It's hard to miss.
I would also suspect it's possible that the wire was originally damaged in the belt tensioner replacement without noticing, and someone else working in the general area may have agitated the issue further in some way that it is now apparent.
The 3 wires:
Red: +12V
Pink/Black: Low Ref (Pretty much a ground)
Brown/White: Sensor Signal
exactly but on my trailblazer t seems to ne going from right to left. btw. ive been watching all your videos since i got my tb. your awesome dude.Whoy said:
Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.Whoy said:exactly but on my trailblazer t seems to ne going from right to left. btw. ive been watching all your videos since i got my tb. your awesome dude.
Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.
If you want to try to tackle the P1512/REP problem yourself, you're gonna need a DMM. There several tests that you can do. If you can get a meter, we can start troubleshooting.
And thanks for checking out my vids. I'm waiting to get a REP problem here to show some DIY tests.
I would have been "WTF ARE YOU SPRAYING ON MY TRUCK, DUDE?!?!?!?!"Whoy said:when i had the oil changed. i watched the guy spray some liquid up towards the lower control arms. kinda funny that this is happening after the oil change.
i honestly think the plastic has melted into where you connect it. probably going to have to empty oil and take off the piece where you pour the oil in. its not where i can see it clearly. could you elaborate how i would go about using the dmm.MAY03LT said:Thanks for the pic. Hopefully the connector is salvageable.
could be but looks as though its melted.RayGumm said:Looks like it might have come loose and gotten caught up in the serpentine..
i got that sensor off thanks your video. i am going to call my rental department tomorrow and see about getting a digital multimeter. it most likely be a fluke mm. my stepdad listened to it running and thought it might be the fuel filter but also said "if it was an older car i could figure it out easy, all this new age b.s. i dont know much about. hahaMAY03LT said:Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.
If you want to try to tackle the P1512/REP problem yourself, you're gonna need a DMM. There several tests that you can do. If you can get a meter, we can start troubleshooting.
And thanks for checking out my vids. I'm waiting to get a REP problem here to show some DIY tests.
heres what i believe your talking about. the three wires are still connected.MAY03LT said:Half of the cam sensor is still in the motor, held in by that one 10mm bolt. The other half is in the connector.
See if you can get the half out of the connector first to asses the damage. If the connector is salvageable, cool. If not, there are replacement connectors available.
edit - crap, I was looking at connectors on rockauto and didn't refresh the page.
Does the connector look ok?
I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.Whoy said:heres what i believe your talking about. the three wires are still connected.
IllogicTC said:I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.
forgive me for not being savvy on the auto side. this was the first "nice" car I've ever owned. trying to learn all i can.IllogicTC said:I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.
The piece that was bolted in is the cam sensor. The purple piece is the connector. Looks like the locking tab of the connector is in tact.Whoy said:the piece that was bolted in will need to be replaced for sure. the piece that plugs into that purple piece will need to be replaced if not the entire piece and splicing the wiring.
All I see are 3 wire connectors that have to be spliced.IllogicTC said:I'm not sure on the part number but I'm guessing May03LT has a number or link for a new connector harness, so you can have a nice solid connection without messing with splices.
Whoy said:this was the first "nice" car I've ever owned.
Add me to the list.IllogicTC said:I know that feeling.
so if i can find the piece that snaps into the connector it should be ok?MAY03LT said:The piece that was bolted in is the cam sensor. The purple piece is the connector. Looks like the locking tab of the connector is in tact. All I see are 3 wire connectors that have to be spliced.whoy2.JPG Add me to the list.
haha, im an idiot. the piece i was thinking is already connected to the sensor. will get that done tomorrow since easy fix. will i be using the multimeters and using to prods to touch different wires?MAY03LT said:IMG_20140429_213301_520.jpgThis is what your new cam sensor will look like. You might be able to reuse the connector even though it looks beat to hell. Personally if the wires aren't damaged and it locks, I'd plug it in, wrap it up in electrical tape, and see if it takes care of p0340. Then move on to the other issue.
that would be awesome. i saw autozone online has a dmm for like 30 bucks. think that would be a decent dmm or better for me to get a fluke from work. i run the shipping receiving department and slowly transitioning to sales so still learning about all the test equipment we service and sell. i know fluke is top quality, reason im asking. Again, I just want to thank you all of guys that have been helping me out. it means more than you know.MAY03LT said:It's all good man, we're all here to learn.Oh yes, there will be touching wires. Since we both have 03s I'll probably be taking pics along the way of what to test.
I've been putting tiddlybits in my recent pics. There's one that has a tombstone with RIP trailvoy on it floating around.Mounce said:Lol, nice note you added in there, MAY!
Anything that will measure voltage will work. Some guys have recommended a harbor freight cheapie - and that will work. The only thing that I would look for is one with removable alligator leads. With those, you can clamp one lead and still have both hands free - usually one to hold the other lead and one to hold the connector or whatever you're testing.Whoy said:that would be awesome. i saw autozone online has a dmm for like 30 bucks. think that would be a decent dmm or better for me to get a fluke from work. i run the shipping receiving department and slowly transitioning to sales so still learning about all the test equipment we service and sell. i know fluke is top quality, reason im asking. Again, I just want to thank you all of guys that have been helping me out. it means more than you know.
i got that cam sensor and a cheapie dmm from autozone. so im ready to tackle the p1512 code and get my girl working again.MAY03LT said:I've been putting tiddlybits in my recent pics. There's one that has a tombstone with RIP trailvoy on it floating around.
Anything that will measure voltage will work. Some guys have recommended a harbor freight cheapie - and that will work. The only thing that I would look for is one with removable alligator leads. With those, you can clamp one lead and still have both hands free - usually one to hold the other lead and one to hold the connector or whatever you're testing.
I'm anti-fluke based on one of my first experiences that I had as a technician. A tool guy tried to sell me a fluke that cost more then I made in two weeks. I was like **** that. I went and bought a craftsman and used it daily for almost a decade, fixing thousands of electrical issues. Went through a couple sets of leads, and had to shim the 9v battery to keep her running, but I still have her. I only bought the snap on that I've showed because I got it at cost from my snap on guy. Just like an obd2 code reader, a meter is a DIY'er must have tool.
Word. It's raining its dickens off here, as soon as it breaks I'll get enough to get you started.Whoy said:i got that cam sensor and a cheapie dmm from autozone. so im ready to tackle the p1512 code and get my girl working again.
I replaced the fuse even though the original looked to be fine. should i really try that again?BlazingTrails said:now that you replaced the fuse repeat the PCM reset again as stated in my previous post. it should fix it now.
-Brandon
There's really no harm in resetting the PCM if you do it by pulling the PCM fuses (2 of them) in the engine compartment. Sometimes, disconnecting the battery tends to break little bits that are hard to replace in the vent system.Whoy said:I replaced the fuse even though the original looked to be fine. should i really try that again?
HVAC actuators all do a self-test when first powered up by getting the battery connected (or related fuses plugged in). This affects all years, newer years may have more luck if they improved the actuators or maybe just because they aren't as old.BlazingTrails said:Hey Khill what is that about the a/c system that potentially has problems when disconnecting the battery? I heard it was 2003 and older, is that true? I have a 2005 and have done it several times with no problems yet. just wondering if I should quit doing that? thanks
-Brandon
so pull pcm fuses or no? lol? do you know what numbers they are or acronyms?IllogicTC said:HVAC actuators all do a self-test when first powered up by getting the battery connected (or related fuses plugged in). This affects all years, newer years may have more luck if they improved the actuators or maybe just because they aren't as old.
PCM 1 and PCM B, both in the underhood block. Fuses 10 and 28. This resets the PCM without any HVAC worries.Whoy said:so pull pcm fuses or no? lol? do you know what numbers they are or acronyms?
so i disconnect both battery posts, pull fuses, check everything is off, connect posts, turn key on for 2 minutes, crank and let run for 10 mins?IllogicTC said:PCM 1 and PCM B, both in the underhood block. Fuses 10 and 28. This resets the PCM without any HVAC worries.
And thanks for being very cooperative and patient. We've had other new people who get immediately upset if we don't have the "Godsend" answer right from the start or can't get a complete diagnosis without asking more information. And then there was that guy who told us we shouldn't give out info if we aren't ASE-certified.... lol. I've seen plenty of "ASE-certified" people screw up even simple jobs, it's all in the research not just a general, basic understanding of everything sometimes.