Reduced engine power light outta nowhere

Whoy

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Apr 27, 2014
76
when i had the oil changed. i watched the guy spray some liquid up towards the lower control arms. kinda funny that this is happening after the oil change.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Whoy said:
replaced #23. two codes P1512, and now 0340. wtf is going on? now there is something wrong with the camshaft
0340 is actually pretty specific. "Camshaft sensor missing." Either the sensor is broken, or the wiring leading to it is. Below the oil fill cap on the front of the engine, right below the top "plastic" part, there is a little sensor held in by a single bolt with a harness with 3 wires on it. Check the sensor, and check all wiring. I'm unsure if the 12V reference is also supplied via the TAC fuse or not. I mean, it appears to be the case, I can't 100% confirm but I am at least 65% certain. What this is telling me that the PCM now knows that stuff should be powered (including the cam sensor), and it's not getting anything from the cam sensor, at all.

It is common when people are playing around the front of the engine that an errant tool (especially when messing with the tensioner or fan clutch) breaks the cam sensor. If they didn't get into this area, this should not apply. However if someone else changed your oil, those wires are right below the fill cap and a knucklehead could have poured some oil onto the wiring or somehow struck the wiring or the sensor.

The fact that the TAC was blown gives me a suspicion that something is shorting to ground on that circuit, which of course since there's excess drain on that circuit it could affect the power to the throttle body, either in the 5V references if they're derived from the same circuit, or the throttle motor.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
Whoy said:
0340 is actually pretty specific. "Camshaft sensor missing." Either the sensor is broken, or the wiring leading to it is. Below the oil fill cap on the front of the engine, right below the top "plastic" part, there is a little sensor held in by a single bolt with a harness with 3 wires on it. Check the sensor, and check all wiring. I'm unsure if the 12V reference is also supplied via the TAC fuse or not. I mean, it appears to be the case, but I can't currently go out and test this theory.

It is common when people are playing around the front of the engine that an errant tool (especially when messing with the tensioner or fan clutch) breaks the cam sensor.
well i did have to replace the belt tensioner about a month ago. the bearings went out on it. is it a wire or obvious piece i will notice.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Whoy said:
well i did have to replace the belt tensioner about a month ago. the bearings went out on it. is it a wire or obvious piece i will notice.
Yes. Also, I revised my post that you quoted to include some other possibilities but I think we're getting in the right direction with this tensioner replacement. There's a 3-wire harness that's directly down from the oil filler cap, literally right below where the plastic valve cover ends and the metal cylinder head begins. It's hard to miss.

I would also suspect it's possible that the wire was originally damaged in the belt tensioner replacement without noticing, and someone else working in the general area may have agitated the issue further in some way that it is now apparent.

The 3 wires:
Red: +12V
Pink/Black: Low Ref (Pretty much a ground)
Brown/White: Sensor Signal
 

Whoy

Original poster
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Apr 27, 2014
76
Yes. Also, I revised my post that you quoted to include some other possibilities but I think we're getting in the right direction with this tensioner replacement. There's a 3-wire harness that's directly down from the oil filler cap, literally right below where the plastic valve cover ends and the metal cylinder head begins. It's hard to miss.

I would also suspect it's possible that the wire was originally damaged in the belt tensioner replacement without noticing, and someone else working in the general area may have agitated the issue further in some way that it is now apparent.

The 3 wires:
Red: +12V
Pink/Black: Low Ref (Pretty much a ground)
Brown/White: Sensor Signal

unbelievable, it has like a plastic ribbed coating around it? i grabbed it and its not connected to anything.

there are bolts to the left underneath oil cap. roght underneath there is what i believe the plug for it. feel like plastic possibly melted into it.
 

triz

Member
Apr 22, 2013
746
Check the camshaft position sensor above the power steering pump. Disconnect it and check for oil in the connection.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Whoy said:
exactly but on my trailblazer t seems to ne going from right to left. btw. ive been watching all your videos since i got my tb. your awesome dude.
Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.

If you want to try to tackle the P1512/REP problem yourself, you're gonna need a DMM. There several tests that you can do. If you can get a meter, we can start troubleshooting.

And thanks for checking out my vids. I'm waiting to get a REP problem here to show some DIY tests.
 
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Whoy

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Apr 27, 2014
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Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.

If you want to try to tackle the P1512/REP problem yourself, you're gonna need a DMM. There several tests that you can do. If you can get a meter, we can start troubleshooting.

And thanks for checking out my vids. I'm waiting to get a REP problem here to show some DIY tests.

heres camshaft sensor.

where the writing on the belt is; right above is where i believe the sensor should plug in.



says file is to big when trying to add file. sorry
 

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The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Whoy said:
when i had the oil changed. i watched the guy spray some liquid up towards the lower control arms. kinda funny that this is happening after the oil change.
I would have been "WTF ARE YOU SPRAYING ON MY TRUCK, DUDE?!?!?!?!"

Funny indeed. NOT.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Thanks for the pic. Hopefully the connector is salvageable.
 

Whoy

Original poster
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Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
Thanks for the pic. Hopefully the connector is salvageable.
i honestly think the plastic has melted into where you connect it. probably going to have to empty oil and take off the piece where you pour the oil in. its not where i can see it clearly. could you elaborate how i would go about using the dmm.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
RayGumm said:
Looks like it might have come loose and gotten caught up in the serpentine..
could be but looks as though its melted.

here is a picture of where i believe that sensor should plug in
 

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Whoy

Original poster
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Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
Gotcha. Can you snap a pic of it? Like Illogic said, it wouldn't be the time we've seen a report of the cam sensor getting whacked/break. I don't see a relation between P1512 and P0340. I'd treat them a two separate problems, with P1512/REP being the priority.

If you want to try to tackle the P1512/REP problem yourself, you're gonna need a DMM. There several tests that you can do. If you can get a meter, we can start troubleshooting.

And thanks for checking out my vids. I'm waiting to get a REP problem here to show some DIY tests.
i got that sensor off thanks your video. i am going to call my rental department tomorrow and see about getting a digital multimeter. it most likely be a fluke mm. my stepdad listened to it running and thought it might be the fuel filter but also said "if it was an older car i could figure it out easy, all this new age b.s. i dont know much about. haha
 
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MAY03LT

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Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Half of the cam sensor is still in the motor, held in by that one 10mm bolt. The other half is in the connector.

See if you can get the half out of the connector first to asses the damage. If the connector is salvageable, cool. If not, there are replacement connectors available.

edit - crap, I was looking at connectors on rockauto and didn't refresh the page.

Does the connector look ok?
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
Half of the cam sensor is still in the motor, held in by that one 10mm bolt. The other half is in the connector.

See if you can get the half out of the connector first to asses the damage. If the connector is salvageable, cool. If not, there are replacement connectors available.

edit - crap, I was looking at connectors on rockauto and didn't refresh the page.

Does the connector look ok?
heres what i believe your talking about. the three wires are still connected.
 

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IllogicTC

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Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Whoy said:
heres what i believe your talking about. the three wires are still connected.
I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.
 
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Whoy

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Apr 27, 2014
76
IllogicTC said:
I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.
IllogicTC said:
I think we're talking about the connector on the harness-side. The new sensor will come with the plug already, just want to make sure the harness connector won't be an issue too.
forgive me for not being savvy on the auto side. this was the first "nice" car I've ever owned. trying to learn all i can.
the piece that was bolted in will need to be replaced for sure. the piece that plugs into that purple piece will need to be replaced if not the entire piece and splicing the wiring.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
I know that feeling. My 05 was a massive upgrade from the newest vehicle I'd ever owned: a 1991 F150 with a 351. I'm not sure on the part number but I'm guessing May03LT has a number or link for a new connector harness, so you can have a nice solid connection without messing with splices.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Whoy said:
the piece that was bolted in will need to be replaced for sure. the piece that plugs into that purple piece will need to be replaced if not the entire piece and splicing the wiring.
The piece that was bolted in is the cam sensor. The purple piece is the connector. Looks like the locking tab of the connector is in tact.

IllogicTC said:
I'm not sure on the part number but I'm guessing May03LT has a number or link for a new connector harness, so you can have a nice solid connection without messing with splices.
All I see are 3 wire connectors that have to be spliced.

whoy2.JPG

Whoy said:
this was the first "nice" car I've ever owned.
IllogicTC said:
I know that feeling.
Add me to the list.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
The piece that was bolted in is the cam sensor. The purple piece is the connector. Looks like the locking tab of the connector is in tact. All I see are 3 wire connectors that have to be spliced.
attachicon.gif
whoy2.JPG Add me to the list.
so if i can find the piece that snaps into the connector it should be ok?
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
IMG_20140429_213301_520.jpg

This is what your new cam sensor will look like. You might be able to reuse the connector even though it looks beat to hell. Personally if the wires aren't damaged and it locks, I'd plug it in, wrap it up in electrical tape, and see if it takes care of p0340. Then move on to the other issue.
 
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Whoy

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Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
attachicon.gif
IMG_20140429_213301_520.jpgThis is what your new cam sensor will look like. You might be able to reuse the connector even though it looks beat to hell. Personally if the wires aren't damaged and it locks, I'd plug it in, wrap it up in electrical tape, and see if it takes care of p0340. Then move on to the other issue.
haha, im an idiot. the piece i was thinking is already connected to the sensor. will get that done tomorrow since easy fix. will i be using the multimeters and using to prods to touch different wires?
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
It's all good man, we're all here to learn.

Oh yes, there will be touching wires. Since we both have 03s I'll probably be taking pics along the way of what to test.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
It's all good man, we're all here to learn.Oh yes, there will be touching wires. Since we both have 03s I'll probably be taking pics along the way of what to test.
that would be awesome. i saw autozone online has a dmm for like 30 bucks. think that would be a decent dmm or better for me to get a fluke from work. i run the shipping receiving department and slowly transitioning to sales so still learning about all the test equipment we service and sell. i know fluke is top quality, reason im asking. Again, I just want to thank you all of guys that have been helping me out. it means more than you know.
 
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MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Mounce said:
Lol, nice note you added in there, MAY!
I've been putting tiddlybits in my recent pics. There's one that has a tombstone with RIP trailvoy on it floating around.

Whoy said:
that would be awesome. i saw autozone online has a dmm for like 30 bucks. think that would be a decent dmm or better for me to get a fluke from work. i run the shipping receiving department and slowly transitioning to sales so still learning about all the test equipment we service and sell. i know fluke is top quality, reason im asking. Again, I just want to thank you all of guys that have been helping me out. it means more than you know.
Anything that will measure voltage will work. Some guys have recommended a harbor freight cheapie - and that will work. The only thing that I would look for is one with removable alligator leads. With those, you can clamp one lead and still have both hands free - usually one to hold the other lead and one to hold the connector or whatever you're testing.

I'm anti-fluke based on one of my first experiences that I had as a technician. A tool guy tried to sell me a fluke that cost more then I made in two weeks. I was like **** that. I went and bought a craftsman and used it daily for almost a decade, fixing thousands of electrical issues. Went through a couple sets of leads, and had to shim the 9v battery to keep her running, but I still have her. I only bought the snap on that I've showed because I got it at cost from my snap on guy. Just like an obd2 code reader, a meter is a DIY'er must have tool.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
MAY03LT said:
I've been putting tiddlybits in my recent pics. There's one that has a tombstone with RIP trailvoy on it floating around.


Anything that will measure voltage will work. Some guys have recommended a harbor freight cheapie - and that will work. The only thing that I would look for is one with removable alligator leads. With those, you can clamp one lead and still have both hands free - usually one to hold the other lead and one to hold the connector or whatever you're testing.

I'm anti-fluke based on one of my first experiences that I had as a technician. A tool guy tried to sell me a fluke that cost more then I made in two weeks. I was like **** that. I went and bought a craftsman and used it daily for almost a decade, fixing thousands of electrical issues. Went through a couple sets of leads, and had to shim the 9v battery to keep her running, but I still have her. I only bought the snap on that I've showed because I got it at cost from my snap on guy. Just like an obd2 code reader, a meter is a DIY'er must have tool.
i got that cam sensor and a cheapie dmm from autozone. so im ready to tackle the p1512 code and get my girl working again.
 

BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
now that you replaced the fuse repeat the PCM reset again as stated in my previous post. it should fix it now. Too bad your not from around here whoy, I have a good cam sensor in my garage I would have given to you. I also have a good cam actuator.

-Brandon
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Whoy said:
i got that cam sensor and a cheapie dmm from autozone. so im ready to tackle the p1512 code and get my girl working again.
Word. It's raining its dickens off here, as soon as it breaks I'll get enough to get you started. :cool:
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
BlazingTrails said:
now that you replaced the fuse repeat the PCM reset again as stated in my previous post. it should fix it now.

-Brandon
I replaced the fuse even though the original looked to be fine. should i really try that again?
 

khill

Member
Jan 7, 2012
86
Whoy said:
I replaced the fuse even though the original looked to be fine. should i really try that again?
There's really no harm in resetting the PCM if you do it by pulling the PCM fuses (2 of them) in the engine compartment. Sometimes, disconnecting the battery tends to break little bits that are hard to replace in the vent system.
 

BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
Hey Khill what is that about the a/c system that potentially has problems when disconnecting the battery? I heard it was 2003 and older, is that true? I have a 2005 and have done it several times with no problems yet. just wondering if I should quit doing that? thanks

-Brandon
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
BlazingTrails said:
Hey Khill what is that about the a/c system that potentially has problems when disconnecting the battery? I heard it was 2003 and older, is that true? I have a 2005 and have done it several times with no problems yet. just wondering if I should quit doing that? thanks

-Brandon
HVAC actuators all do a self-test when first powered up by getting the battery connected (or related fuses plugged in). This affects all years, newer years may have more luck if they improved the actuators or maybe just because they aren't as old.
 

Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
IllogicTC said:
HVAC actuators all do a self-test when first powered up by getting the battery connected (or related fuses plugged in). This affects all years, newer years may have more luck if they improved the actuators or maybe just because they aren't as old.
so pull pcm fuses or no? lol? do you know what numbers they are or acronyms?
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Whoy said:
so pull pcm fuses or no? lol? do you know what numbers they are or acronyms?
PCM 1 and PCM B, both in the underhood block. Fuses 10 and 28. This resets the PCM without any HVAC worries.

And thanks for being very cooperative and patient. We've had other new people who get immediately upset if we don't have the "Godsend" answer right from the start or can't get a complete diagnosis without asking more information. And then there was that guy who told us we shouldn't give out info if we aren't ASE-certified.... lol. I've seen plenty of "ASE-certified" people screw up even simple jobs, it's all in the research not just a general, basic understanding of everything sometimes.
 
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Whoy

Original poster
Member
Apr 27, 2014
76
IllogicTC said:
PCM 1 and PCM B, both in the underhood block. Fuses 10 and 28. This resets the PCM without any HVAC worries.

And thanks for being very cooperative and patient. We've had other new people who get immediately upset if we don't have the "Godsend" answer right from the start or can't get a complete diagnosis without asking more information. And then there was that guy who told us we shouldn't give out info if we aren't ASE-certified.... lol. I've seen plenty of "ASE-certified" people screw up even simple jobs, it's all in the research not just a general, basic understanding of everything sometimes.
so i disconnect both battery posts, pull fuses, check everything is off, connect posts, turn key on for 2 minutes, crank and let run for 10 mins?

Hell Illogic, if you guys are going to take time to help me the least i can do is hear you guys out and be patient. bad news though my brothers dogs decided to find my cam sensor, and hide it. looked everywhere. almost got to where they were chewing on the new dmm i bought. im putting off for the day. pretty pissed off and dont want to work on car while angry.
 

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