Parking Brake Cable Removal

Camdo

Original poster
Member
May 16, 2015
71
Parking Brake Emergency Brake Rear Brake Brake Cables
2005 GMC Envoy SLT

I recently had to remove the parking brake cable from the rear wheels and spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to get some slack in the cable in order to slip the ball ends from their mounts. I have the official GM shop manuals but could not make sense of the procedure they described. The best description was in a YouTube video but even that was lacking clarity as it is nearly impossible to get a camera in the deep crevasse where the parking brake lever resides. Following is a series of pictographs describing the basic concept of the lever action and steps to slacken the cable. Once known it is a very quick and simple procedure.

First slip the parking brake boot over the lever to gain access to the mechanism. The boot is not fastened to the carpet. The lower end is just loose and can be rolled over itself up the lever arm. Just like pulling your underwear T-shirt over your head!! Here is a picture:
DSC_0019.JPG
Next, study the theory of how the lever works. The following picture is very simplified and only pertains to the aspects of releasing the cable:
EBRAKE1.png

Now that you have a basic understanding of how the lever works, the cable can be easily slackened. Step 1 Release the adjuster gear:
EBRAKE2.png
You have to get your fingers way down in the blind crevasse but it is doable with the help of the pictographs.
DSC_0013.JPG


Step 2 Raise the lever while the adjuster release lever is depressed:
EBRAKE3.png

Step 3 Insert a jamming screwdriver into the cable gear:
EBRAKE4.png

Step 4 Lower the lever with backward rotation of the cable gear:
EBRAKE5.png

Leave the jamming screwdriver in place while you do your brake work. If you pull it out the mechanism torsion spring will windup the cable gear and you will have a lot more work to get everything back in place. It will help to have a little weighted object to keep the parking brake lever down as it will want to spring back up and lose the cable slack.
DSC_0005.JPG


The cable is now slack enough to slip the ball ends from the neutralizer bar.

Now there is lots of slack the remove the cable ends from the rear wheels.

While the cables are off the mounts at both ends, don't forget to pull the cable out far enough to examine the nylon jacket where it enters the sheath. If its worn then the cable won't last long before it rusts into a bind.

At the rear wheel, the cable sheath is mounted on a bracket. Use a screwdriver to push in the spring retainer wings while wriggling the sheath. It looks like a special tool is required, and there is one, but it is very simple with just a screwdriver blade pressing one wing at a time.

Enjoy!
 
Last edited:

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,678
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:goodpost: Great write up. Those pics are really helpful in understanding how the system works (I sure as hell didn't know :crazy:) Gonna bump this over to the Article Submissions section.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,317
Ottawa, ON
Added to Brakes FAQ
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I wanted to revisit this thread, excellent drawings also.

I'm going to change both cables, I believe the 02 to 05 is the same, my question is, does the fuel tank have to be lowered to access the mounting bolts for the LH cable?
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,694
Tampa Bay Area
At 3:08 into the attached Video… these Screen Caps show where BOTH E-Brake Sub-Cables pass through the Under-Body Tunnel where they pass through holes in a cross-member and then split off to the Right and Left Rear Wheels. These uncommonly helpful views were possible to screen capture from a video made during an Engine R&R involving the complete lift-off and removal of a 2002 Trailblazer Upper Body above its frame to expedite the removal of the FUBAR motor:

2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE1.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE2.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE4.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE5.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE6.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE7.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE8.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE9.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE10.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE11.jpg2002TRAILBLAZER PARKBRAKE12.jpg


In order to extract these Parking Brake Cables, you’ll have to crimp the Holding Ferrules on them first and then use a Long Pry Bar to force them both out through the Cross-Member Holes after you separate BOTH of their ‘move-able cable innards” from their Common "T" Shackle linkage connecting them to the Single Cable attached to the Parking Brake Handle Apparatus situated under the hollow over the Transmission Hump inside the Cab.,,(See the Images and Drawings in Post #1)

The one issue concerning your Question here about the R&R of the Fuel Tank proves that while the Left Side Parking Brake Cable DOES pass over it, you should NOT have to the mess around with the Fuel Tank in order to get it out.

You just have to be mindful of where the Body Brackets holding onto the Cable Housings are located and be certain to Pre-Treat them with either “Kroil” or “FREEZE-OFF” De-Rusting Spray well before you try and unfasten them from the Under-Body, lest you Snap Off those Badly Rusted Fasteners.

Remember… the only way the Braided Cable INSIDE of the Cable Housing can work ...is if it’s Housing is FIRMLY FASTENED TO THE SUV BODY so the inner cable can resist against it when the Brake Handle is Pulled. So be very careful when removing those Housing Bracket Retention Bolts.
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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All the Props and Thanks should vector over to @Camdo for memorializing this Article in Post #1.

Thanks Brother -> @Camdo
 
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