Need some Advice new Timkin Wheel hubs on there way

[jeffro312]

so i just purchesed two timken wheel hub assemblys because on the way home from my trip to sc i started to hear sort of a droning noise coming from front end.

so i got off highway and turned left and right see if i could def pinpoint it was the bearings and indeed turning left made it worse but was loud going foward

so i said hmmmm

then i clicked i recently well not too recent changed my front struts. during that process i damaged bottom yolk bolt so in attempt to fix i was going to replace lower control arm. went to remove it got half way through and then got idea to just cut the bolt so i can attach the nut

reassembled it and never got an alignment.


wich led to my bad bearings so im replacing both sides. also notice bad outside wearing of driver side tire

First question
1: should i get an alignment before or after instalation of new hubs

2: i looked in repair manual and replacement of hubs on paper looks easy.

Is it indeed as easy? do all parts remove easy

what issues will i run into now that i have drove 1k plus miles with this drone.
any special tools

any walkthroughs on here i searched didnt notice any

3. the timkin found here is a legit timkin i hope?: Timken 513188 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly : Amazon.com : Automotive

thank for the advice ahead of time glad i found these timkens local store only had duralast.... rockauto had moogs after shipping would be higher price as this set i got both for 285 shipped (free two day shipping signed up for amazon prime trial)

 

[Sparky]

Hubs are pretty easy. Remove wheel, brake hardware, and axle nut, tap the end of the CV axle to break it free from the hub, disconnect the ABS sensor, then remove the 3 bolts holding the hub on the spindle and pull it off. Installation is reverse of removal. Pretty easy. Mine even came off without too much fuss after 140k and 10 years.

Get an alignment before or after you do the hubs, doesn't matter. They won't make a difference in alignment unless they are so shot that the wheel wobbles around. And if it is that bad you shouldn't be driving it!

 

[jeffro312]

Hubs are pretty easy. Remove wheel, brake hardware, and axle nut, tap the end of the CV axle to break it free from the hub, disconnect the ABS sensor, then remove the 3 bolts holding the hub on the spindle and pull it off. Installation is reverse of removal. Pretty easy. Mine even came off without too much fuss after 140k and 10 years.

Get an alignment before or after you do the hubs, doesn't matter. They won't make a difference in alignment unless they are so shot that the wheel wobbles around. And if it is that bad you shouldn't be driving it!

thanks sparky i always get intimidated when i plan a car repair ive never done. then i get my self all worked up and nervous. parts come in i jump into it and then im like sheesh what was i fussin about that was easy....... thats most of the time

the jobs i find to be easy before hand (like my struts) turn out to be the pita jobs haha.

thanks for the quick response

i dont think wheels wobbling yet only wobble i get is when i brake little jerky like a warped rotor maybe ill get lucky and its the hub too??? if not ill slap on one of the old rotors i replaced while back see if i can pin point it...dont think its rotor as tiniest little bumps set off abs if i brake over them

i just hit 180k on my 04 rainier. not sure if or when hubs were ever replaced guess i will find out this weekend thanks again

 

[BRomanJr]

so i just purchesed two timken wheel hub assemblys because on the way home from my trip to sc i started to hear sort of a droning noise coming from front end.

so i got off highway and turned left and right see if i could def pinpoint it was the bearings and indeed turning left made it worse but was loud going foward

so i said hmmmm

then i clicked i recently well not too recent changed my front struts. during that process i damaged bottom yolk bolt so in attempt to fix i was going to replace lower control arm. went to remove it got half way through and then got idea to just cut the bolt so i can attach the nut

reassembled it and never got an alignment.


wich led to my bad bearings so im replacing both sides. also notice bad outside wearing of driver side tire

First question
1: should i get an alignment before or after instalation of new hubs

2: i looked in repair manual and replacement of hubs on paper looks easy.

Is it indeed as easy? do all parts remove easy

what issues will i run into now that i have drove 1k plus miles with this drone.
any special tools

any walkthroughs on here i searched didnt notice any

3. the timkin found here is a legit timkin i hope?: Timken 513188 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly : Amazon.com : Automotive

thank for the advice ahead of time glad i found these timkens local store only had duralast.... rockauto had moogs after shipping would be higher price as this set i got both for 285 shipped (free two day shipping signed up for amazon prime trial)

IMHO: Always get an Alignment as the last step of Front Suspension work, you never know what you may find and replace during the repairs. And you don't know true condition of the hubs, with that may miles and ABS activity, they are probably looser than new ones.

 

[tbuckalew14]

I have pdf instructions from an auto care site if you want them...just shoot me your e-mail address.

 

[jeffro312]

Well I have the repair manual intrusions thanks to all the wonderfull guys here

But it just seems so simple

So was just trying to get a heads up of what's not as simple as it looks on paper


Like I have a feeling the tire,brake hardware will be easy
Then the hub itself is going to be a pia to get off then I'm going to spend an hour getting mad then another hour researching a trick


So point of this was to get all the tricks ahead of time get what I'm saying

Also maybe what major things I can check while in there even though I won't have money for parts at least I can check.


I'll check your guide out though email is

In a pm sent to u

 

[meerschm]

few items of free advice.

if you want to whack the axle end in, you want to have the axle nut on when you do it, so you are sure it will mate with the end. you probably do not want to hit it with a steel hammer. brass is ok, or something else soft.

might want/need a gear puller to gently force the axle back into the hub assy (or visa versa)

local autozone or other should loan you a gear puller.

 

[oh05ext]

dont forget the PB blaster for rusty bolts and a cold beer or 6 for doing it yourself.

 

[jeffro312]

Haha I should prolly pb blast tomorrow since parts come Thursday


And I quit drinking so I'll pound down a few monsters

 

[Sparky]

few items of free advice.

if you want to whack the axle end in, you want to have the axle nut on when you do it, so you are sure it will mate with the end. you probably do not want to hit it with a steel hammer. brass is ok, or something else soft.

might want/need a gear puller to gently force the axle back into the hub assy (or visa versa)

local autozone or other should loan you a gear puller.

Good reminder. I used a 3 pound hammer but only took a couple light hits to knock it free, and I was replacing the axle anyway so I wasn't concerned about the threads or the hub I was yanking it off of.

 

[Hypnotoad]

http://gmtnation.com/showthread.php?t=4978

 

[jeffro312]

http://gmtnation.com/showthread.php?t=4978

Thanks hypno I skimmed that saw ball joint and moved on ha my fault. Thanks again all part be here Thursday maybe I'll take pictures and post my results

 

[JCJARHEAD]

Did this myself last time for the first time and all went well with the use of the instructions. And I had never turned a wrench much before finding this site. Have confidence.

The hardest part was knowing I should whack the hub a bit to break it free after the bolts were removed (use a chisel and dont break it...but DO HIT IT if need be!) I was way too gentle as it was my first time. Basically three bolts deeper than a brake job as many have said.

 

[jeffro312]

So since there's some whacking involved.. I usually have bad luck when using a hammer of any kind.

Like when did front struts whacking the yolk off and damaged the thread and hadda cut it to get nut to grab

So is there any specific place to whack and or not to whack. Should I place wood and hit the wood etc

What to pay attention to not damage during this process

It is all simple in my head until this hub removal process.

When putting hub back on do I need to hammer it on?? Or can I just tighten bolt to push it on

 

[JCJARHEAD]

I was describing that mine had to be pryed from the backside of the brake dust shield to get it to let go once all bolts were removed. It was factory original so it had been on there a long while. To your point....do not get crazy! I simply tapped the backside of the brake shield with a hammer and chisel in different spots until it finally came off.

It didn't damage anything as I gave it just enough to break free.....I simply reseated the replacement by hand and tightened everything up....good to go....no more helicopter LZ noise from the front.

I must have done it right as it has been awhile now and all is well. Good luck. You'll be fine...and if not....post and someone here will jump in and help!

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Takes about an hour per side. No big deal. You will not hammer anything on re-assembly.

 

[CaptainXL]

dont forget the PB blaster for rusty bolts and a cold beer or 6 for doing it yourself.

Not wanting to ruin the idea but...getting wasted and working on heavy items on a car is a no-no in my book.

 

[JCJARHEAD]

Good Point Captain! I assumed he meant as a "victory beverage" perhaps? And might I suggest a cigar as well?

When you are as unmechanically inclined as I am....the best part is getting it done....and if it actually works! YAHOO....Such an awesome feeling. Saving money is great...but the pride of having done it yourself...albeit with some help from your friends at GMT Nation....it doesn't get any better.

Time for a cold one (or two)...and a cigar!

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Alcohol definitely helps throughout the whole process. I prefer a nice whiskey, but beer is better if the job involves oil or other fluids that may contaminate an open glass.

FYI- It takes about a fifth to install an entire lift kit start to finish.

 

[jeffro312]

I suppose if you knew what you were doing....done it before

Then the next time around it becomes a chore not a learning process so the alcohol will "help you through it"

In reality it just tricks your mind into thinking so and helps you dissipate your anger without breaking things

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Alcohol helps with creativity. A great thing when you got something not going right and need a solution until the parts store re-opens or someone invents the tool you know would do the job perfectly or the PB-Blaster has time to soak in.

A LA- the Chicago lift meet which made solid use of both juicy fruit and cut up beer cans.

 

[Conner299]

Alcohol definitely helps throughout the whole process. I prefer a nice whiskey, but beer is better if the job involves oil or other fluids that may contaminate an open glass.

FYI- It takes about a fifth to install an entire lift kit start to finish.

Might I suggest...

 

[meerschm]

So since there's some whacking involved.. I usually have bad luck when using a hammer of any kind.

Like when did front struts whacking the yolk off and damaged the thread and hadda cut it to get nut to grab

So is there any specific place to whack and or not to whack. Should I place wood and hit the wood etc

What to pay attention to not damage during this process

It is all simple in my head until this hub removal process.

When putting hub back on do I need to hammer it on?? Or can I just tighten bolt to push it on

the only thing that you might want to nudge with a hammer is the axle end to get it started to move in a direction to the center of the vehicle, after the axle bolt is loose. you can do this before you jack it up. in fact, getting the axle bolt loose is better done before you jack it up. you only want to get it started to move a little, not beat it into submission.

you could hold a chunk of 2x4 on the bolt an hit it with a hammer. manual suggests using a brass drift punch. once it has started to move, I would not hammer any more, but try to have a gear puller to use to gently pull the hub down the shaft after you get the bolts loose/off. I gave it a medium love tap with a brass 2 pound hammer.

on the way back on, you should have a good coating of grease,on the shaft, so the new hub should for the most part slide right in. axle nut should finish the job. (make sure to note what part and which end goes where on the way off. just like brakes, you might want to do one side at a time, beginning to end, to provide a reference if you get mixed up.

 

[jeffro312]

the only thing that you might want to nudge with a hammer is the axle end to get it started to move in a direction to the center of the vehicle, after the axle bolt is loose. you can do this before you jack it up. in fact, getting the axle bolt loose is better done before you jack it up. you only want to get it started to move a little, not beat it into submission.

you could hold a chunk of 2x4 on the bolt an hit it with a hammer. manual suggests using a brass drift punch. once it has started to move, I would not hammer any more, but try to have a gear puller to use to gently pull the hub down the shaft after you get the bolts loose/off. I gave it a medium love tap with a brass 2 pound hammer.

on the way back on, you should have a good coating of grease,on the shaft, so the new hub should for the most part slide right in. axle nut should finish the job. (make sure to note what part and which end goes where on the way off. just like brakes, you might want to do one side at a time, beginning to end, to provide a reference if you get mixed up.

Here is the exact advice I was searching for. Thanks

 

[jfkmk]

I just replaced my hubs a couple of weeks ago. This was the first time I did it, and I can vouch that it is easy job, taking about an hour a side. There is a video on 1aauto.com that shows how to do it, but the write ups here are good too. Before you take the hub off, just tap the axle with the nut off. It is just to break the bond between the hub and asle, and only takes a light tap. After removing the bolts from behind the hub, you'll have to tap the back of the bearing assembly to break it loose. When you do this, hold the hub so it doesn't fall off and damage the cv joint. The only other thing I would say is, unless you have new brakes, you may as well replace them too since they will be off.

 

[oh05ext]

6 beers isnt wasted its a warm up.hubs are easy.have fun

 

[jeffro312]

Well I have done driver side wheel hub. Took an hour worst part was first I got scared I jinxed myself As it took some prying and hard whacking get that sucker off first shield seperated but axle still on which made it difficult but hit it right and it pops off.

Then the abs wire clips pitfa

But all and all was easy also informed myself to start saving for some break pads

So during test drive driver side only noise was deducted but still hear the passenger.. I thought my driver side was a good one but now I hear difference its good I got both. Finish up in am thanks for the confidence boost to get this job done

Some pics...
View attachment 27096
Tools used...(left out my big guns I used to wrestler this hub off)

Before.....
View attachment 27097
View attachment 27098
View attachment 27100

After
View attachment 27102View attachment 13254

 

[Sparky]

At least your old one was still in one piece. A piece had come loose on mine

 

[CaptainXL]

Don't forget to check balljoints and tie rods. You dont want to do an alignment after replacing the hubs only to replace them again in the near future.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Don't forget to check balljoints and tie rods. You dont want to do an alignment after replacing the hubs only to replace them again in the near future.

You do NOT need an alignment after swapping hubs. Suspension is not affected.

 

[v7guy]

what hardtrailz said.
If you bend the dustshields they'll contact the rotor and make noise when the wheel spins. Of course that's a good reason to go get some more whiskey, maybe you'll want to bend one on purpose!

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Not dustshields...they are rock catchers n need thrown away. They just add weight.

 

[v7guy]

Not dustshields...they are rock catchers n need thrown away. They just add weight.

I considered it after a rock got caught and squealed for a half hour, annoying shit. I've been to lazy to pull the hubs and ditch em though. If I knew then what I know now I would of tossed em when I swapped hubs.

 

[jeffro312]

I need an alignment because previous work I did while back should have got one after but didnt. That's what I'm thinking caused hubs to go bad to begin with

 

[jeffro312]

Hey captain can u possibly steer me in right direction how to check those items

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Hey captain can u possibly steer me in right direction how to check those items

This makes me laugh

 

[jeffro312]

This makes me laugh

Me two I just don't have time to research it so figured just get a quick reply. As I'm doing passenger side as we speak

 

[Denali n DOO]

You do NOT need an alignment after swapping hubs. Suspension is not affected.

Maybe not needed but OP still hadn't done alignment after he did previous front end work. He was saving the alignment until he finished doing the hubs, makes sense to check the other components before he does that alignment now that the hubs are done...

 

[v7guy]

Hey captain can u possibly steer me in right direction how to check those items

Seriously?

You already changed one side, so you know what the deal is.
An hour per side is if your hanging out, drinking/smoking/bullshitting and decide to work inbetween while banging a hooker and doing some blow of her ass. I just did two hubs with a buddy last week with most of the previously mentioned extra curricular activities and still had time to chill more afterwards before a half hour ride home, we didn't even have an hour and a half in the job.
If you've done one side already what more advice could you possibly need?
Take off the wheel
loosen the CV nut and smack it to loosen it
detach the ABS wire from the spot on the frame and A arm and spindle
take off the two caliper bolts and swing it out of the way
then loosen the three hub bolts
tap the hub and it falls on the floor
then do everything in reverse.

It's all gravy, and if you're not lifted you don't even half to mess with spacers and weird wheel hub covers etc, just go get it done, you're obviously more than capable.

 

[jeffro312]

Seriously?

You already changed one side, so you know what the deal is.
An hour per side is if your hanging out, drinking/smoking/bullshitting and decide to work inbetween while banging a hooker and doing some blow of her ass. I just did two hubs with a buddy last week with most of the previously mentioned extra curricular activities and still had time to chill more afterwards before a half hour ride home, we didn't even have an hour and a half in the job.
If you've done one side already what more advice could you possibly need?
Take off the wheel
loosen the CV nut and smack it to loosen it
detach the ABS wire from the spot on the frame and A arm and spindle
take off the two caliper bolts and swing it out of the way
then loosen the three hub bolts
tap the hub and it falls on the floor
then do everything in reverse.

It's all gravy, and if you're not lifted you don't even half to mess with spacers and weird wheel hub covers etc, just go get it done, you're obviously more than capable.

Hey a#@hole if u read. I was asking how to check ball joints etc. Your useless comment means nothing nor does it help...I'm sure there are guys can do it in half hour. I've never done it before so do me a favor and take our useless posts elsewhere thankd