NEED HELP Nasty Intermittent P0455

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Hi all -

Really could use a hand with this one. I've had an intermittent P0455 code for quite some time. In most cases, after a few drive cycles it would clear itself. I would say this began last fall with the onset of cooler temps, and I'd get a Code/CEL maybe once a month. I did some searching and reading back then, decided gas cap was most likely culprit, but before replacing it an inspection revealed some corrosion around the fill pipe neck that created a rough surface. I sanded and polished it smooth, clean up the rubber seal on the cap and didn't seem to get any more occurrences. In ALL cases, ONLY P0455 is set along with the CEL...no other codes stored or pending, ever.

Fast forward to about two weeks ago, just prior to my emissions test approaching. The CEL came on. I assumed P0455, and further assumed that it would again clear itself after a few cycles. It didn't.

I reset the code and cleared the CEL with my OBDlink SX, ran a couple cycles after which no MIL was illuminated, and no codes were stored or pending. I looked but failed to notice that there were two emissions monitors not ready (Evap and Catalyst) - Only 1 not ready is permitted here. As such I failed the first emissions test.

I waited the required 24 hrs, drove the required mileage and just as I was heading to get a 2nd test (still eligible for a conditional pass unless there was an increased number of not ready monitors) The CEL came back with code P0455. I cleared it, thinking I'd still just have the two not ready, and wouldn't ya know my laptop died as I was checking their status...decided to gamble and lost as I hadn't driven it enough to complete one of the diagnostics, and it failed.

So I began REALLY chasing the source. Polished the filler pipe again till shiny and smooth and bought and installed a brand new AC Delco gas cap at the dealer ($33 ugh, time pressure!) and took a 200 km trip out of town.

I got a couple drive cycles completed, back comes CEL/P0455. :-(

Since then I've read and searched like a demon. Roadie has a very nice summary of the most common causes (gas cap, vent solenoid, purge solenoid, cracked filler neck at tank). I found another post that talked of the possibility of issues under the fuse block and another that referenced a severely aged purge solenoid hose that crumbled on contact.

I tackled the vent solenoid first. Removed from vehicle, inspected, valve was open as expected, air passed easily thru. I activated the solenoid by putting 12V across the terminals numerous times, nice loud audible feedback, and semi-verified the seal by confirming no air would pass thru with solenoid closed (semi-verified because I don't have a vacuum pump).

Opened the cover at the end, inspected the foam filter for debris, cleaned out some chunks of dirt from outer edge , removed and cleaned the filter, and cleaned the interior of the canister. replaced the filter and cap, shot a squirt of wd40 in the end where you can see the spring and worked it a few more times to clear any grime that may have been on the valve seat. Before reinstalling, I verified 12V (actually got 11.46, I attribute that to the difficulty of finding a really good ground nearby) was present at the connector pink wire with ignition in Run.

This left me satisfied that my VENT solenoid is likely functional as long as the PCM commanded ground/control signal gets through. To that end I had read a post where the control signal passes thru C100 en route from the PCM to the vent solenoid, and that by grounding the relevant pin I could simulate the PCM signal and listen for the solenoid to actuate. I now believe however that was possibly a later model year reference or possibly pertained to V8 models. The wire colors and pin locations there did not cross reference to my C100. This post referenced the correct wire colors and in conjunction with a schematic I found for my 05 XL I6, I now suspect the control signal line routes directly to the fuse block with no intervening connectors.

Because I don't have a scan tool that lets me command the solenoid directly, and because another post referenced issues under the fuse block, I attempted to remove that hoping for some good access to the control signal line. I got as far as lifting it off enough for visual inspection but with the multitude of connectors underneath I felt it might be a bit of a risk to proceed. Visually there was no appearance of rust, corrosion, dirt or water intrusion that may have given rise to the issue mentioned by that poster. Not conclusive I know, but hopefully usable info.

While I was R&Ring the vent solenoid by the gas tank, I visually inspected the tank filler neck for ANY signs of past leakage....it's dry and clean and as far as I can tell from reading, the issue was mainly isolated to MY's prior to my own. The solenoid hose connectors seem secure and undamaged, and the vent hose from the tank as far as I could access it seemed intact with no kinks in the stiff plastic that might indicate a stress point where it may have cracked.

All of which left me wanting to check out the PURGE solenoid. And I TRIED...from the top, from the bottom with the wheel off, from every angle I could conceive of except for any which might have been prevented by the jack/jack stand on the front of the frame rail. The best I could manage was to get the electrical connector off, and back on when I finally gave up. I've seen videos on it, read posts on it...I still swear everyone else has a different truck!

But I left it for last because I can't envision exactly how P0455 is set by the PURGE solenoid, unless it gets stuck OPEN when the PCM initially attempts the gross vacuum leak test. But if that was the case, I'd expect other codes, poor engine behavior, SOMETHING else to go with P0455. Maybe its just slow to close in cooler weather? Remember this seems more prominent in fall and winter, worse this year than last but has gone from spring till now before setting the code...suggests to me the purge solenoid might be sluggish but not completely stuck.

Anyway, that's the background story. I know it's a pile to digest, but I figured I may as well include all the details I have now, because many of the questions responders woulkd naturally ask have been covered.

I'll end with my begging for helpful suggestions, and for the answer to two questions:
1) On 2005 XL SLT I6 vehicles, is there a convenient place as close as possible to the PCM that I can access the control line and simulate the ground signal to verify vent solenoid operation?
2) Can anyone throw up better or even any plausible ideas on exactly how the purge solenoid gives rise to ONLY P0455 with no noticeable deterioration in engine performance, no other associated codes, and only begins acting up in the fall?

Thanx,
Very much appreciate any help & suggestions...It'd be awesome if I could track this down without resorting to a trip to a shop/dealer
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,996
Ottawa, ON
p0455 just indicates a system leak. Nothing about improper operation by any of the solenoids. I'd say look for a leak or if you know somebody who vapes to blow some smoke into the tank to see if it's leaking anywhere. Another member is going through the same problem and when he replaced the vacuum sensor on the tank, the nipple broke into the tank.

Or we could try a meet and have a go with my Tech 2.

I tell ya, the evap system is the most troublesome system for the little good it does.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Do you ever have any gas fume smell around at all?

When I was fighting my P0442 I didn't find it until one day at the gas station when filling the tank I was getting a lot of gas on the ground. My filler neck had rusted and was leaking enough to throw the code, then finally it cracked and just started dumping fuel. That was great when gas was $4+ a gallon and for every 10 gallons that went in the tank at least 1 went on the ground! Around then is when the P0442 went away and I got P0455 - "large leak" you don't say!

Funny enough, I don't think I had any gas smell from it until it split enough to start dumping fuel.
 
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WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Do you ever have any gas fume smell around at all?
.
.
.
Funny enough, I don't think I had any gas smell from it until it split enough to start dumping fuel.

Has never been any smell of gas, except what I'm sure is a small amount of vapors escaping the fill pipe as I put gas in.

If I understand correctly you had P0442 (small leak) related to a presumably small crack, and as the crack grew the leak became larger to the point where fuel would spill/leak thru, and then the P0455 showed up? Because that would seem to make sense...the small leak test IIRC isn't done till after the gross leak test passes. Starting with a rust induced small hole or crack that didn't spill fuel or result in noticeable smell, the crack grew over time allowing both fuel leakage, smell and gross leak P0455...and while my filler neck does have exterior rust and roughness, I have yet to get ANY indication of a small leak ever...mine progressed directly to large leak. Keep in mind too that this apparently large leak has the uncanny ability to seal itself off for months at a time. Again not entirely conclusive, but your evidence and my observations suggest to me that rusty fill pipe hole / crack isn't at play here.

p0455 just indicates a system leak. Nothing about improper operation by any of the solenoids.
Yes the code itself declares a large leak present but in trying to track down the sources of possible leaks both the purge and vent solenoids are heavy contenders. I still don't have a good theory behind how the purge solenoid would have to be behaving to cause P0455

I'd say look for a leak or if you know somebody who vapes to blow some smoke into the tank to see if it's leaking anywhere.
I don't but I admit I'm surprised to hear that might even be an option...I would have thought there wouldn't be enough pressure/smoke volume to be detectable. Plus if they blow it into the gas tank, I'd either need to activate (command closed) the vent solenoid or disconnect the vent hose and cap it.

Another member is going through the same problem and when he replaced the vacuum sensor on the tank, the nipple broke into the tank.

Is that the same as the FTP - fuel tank pressure sensor?

Or we could try a meet and have a go with my Tech 2.

I tell ya, the evap system is the most troublesome system for the little good it does.

I got a temporary registration sticker to buy me 10 days to troubleshoot. I've also driven a couple hundred miles since posting. That permitted all available emissions monitors to be set ready (slow one is always Catalyst) except for the EVAP. With only a single non-ready monitor I can get the test and pass legitimately...the reason the EVAP monitor isn't ready is because conditions haven't been satisified..either coolant temp too high or gas tank level too high...if i can keep one or the other of those situations in place I can proceed and buy myself another 2 years to T/S properly. Drive Clean test scheduled 10:30 tomorrow morning...but I would LOVE to meet and see if we can command both purge and vent solenoids with your Tech II...I think we have a bit of time to arrange whenever it might be more convenient as now I'm not quite under the gun as I was yesterday
 
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AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
IIRC the more specific DTCs for the evap system didn't show up until the '06 MY. Meaning that if the vent valve wasn't closing on command due to a faulty (intermittent) electrical connection an '05 PCM wouldn't know and just report it as a large leak.

It does look like the 05 year wiring was different (a lot changed in 06) in that the vent control line doesn't go through the C100 as you've found. The easiest way to test might therefore be the pin-through-insulation method once you locate the control wire (as close to the PCM as possible). Just remember I only went down this rabbit hole because I had a different DTC that specifically pointed to an electrical fault with the vent solenoid circuit.

I also don't see the purge solenoid being able to trigger just a P0455 since the test is looking for a drop in vacuum. If the purge solenoid was stuck or slow it would just continue to keep the vacuum high.

In the meantime, keep that tank topped off until you pass the test! :thumbsup:
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
IIRC the more specific DTCs for the evap system didn't show up until the '06 MY. Meaning that if the vent valve wasn't closing on command due to a faulty (intermittent) electrical connection an '05 PCM wouldn't know and just report it as a large leak.


It does look like the 05 year wiring was different (a lot changed in 06) in that the vent control line doesn't go through the C100 as you've found. The easiest way to test might therefore be the pin-through-insulation method once you locate the control wire (as close to the PCM as possible). Just remember I only went down this rabbit hole because I had a different DTC that specifically pointed to an electrical fault with the vent solenoid circuit.

Given that I found ~12V at the vent solenoid connection, the solenoid was operating freely when isolated from the vehicle and the seal seemed good when far more than 1/4 psi pressure/vacuum was applied tends to lead me to think that its not at fault. Further, I've now realized I can probably just find a way to test control line continuity with my meter with a rigged up set of long leads and test between vent solenoid connector and the relevant pin(s) on the PCM connectors. If the control line is good it would have to be a faulty PCM not issuing the command..and although I believe that's unlikely, I still have my original PCM as a spare since getting a tune from PCM4Less that I could use to confirm or eliminate that theory.

I also don't see the purge solenoid being able to trigger just a P0455 since the test is looking for a drop in vacuum. If the purge solenoid was stuck or slow it would just continue to keep the vacuum high.

The gross leak test involves the PCM commanding the (normally open ) vent valve to close, then applying vacuum by commanding the (normally closed) purge solenoid to open (or PWM pulsed at some duty cycle ). Then I ASSUME it checks the FTP sensor to detect the pressure drop.

So, what if the purge valve remains stuck in closed position at the time of the test? The FTP sensor wouldn't report a drop and the PCM might conclude thats due to a large leak rather than the more accurate conclusion that the vacuum never got applied in the first place. This might also explain the absence of any performance degradation since the purge solenoid is normally closed anyway. If it's REALLY stuck solidly closed I might expect to detect the smell of fuel vapor near the back end thru the open vent solenoid if the canister became saturated. Maybe the purge solenoid is weak and will only open part way when the PWM duty cycle of the control signal exceeds some threshold. I'd expect that scenario to show up somewhere in the data if I logged the fuel trim PISs and knew better how to interpret that data.

Ideally I'd like to get at it and remove it and bench test/inspect as I did with the vent solenoid, but it's sooo hard to access - a good secondary alternative is to use Moose's Tech II to exercise both in situ.

In the meantime, keep that tank topped off until you pass the test! :thumbsup:

I will...Thanks for the addititional input
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,996
Ottawa, ON
Good luck!
 

AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
That's a good point about the purge solenoid never opening at all.

A Tech II is obviously the easiest way to diagnose but absent that you could use a pigtail connector (APDTY 756742, PT250, PT2784) since you can get to the electrical connector to manually cycle the purge valve while the engine is running. A drastic change in idle (or lack thereof) will tell you if the purge solenoid is opening and closing or if the purge line is blocked.

With that you could also block the vent valve, manually activate the purge valve and monitor the fuel tank pressure signal voltage at C101 (big harness-to-harness connector next to the fuse block).
 

Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
FWIW: My neighbor has a 2004 Buick V6 with the exact same
purge valve as my 03TB I6. The purge valve would not close
and set a P0455. New valve solved problem.
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
I hate when time constraints and weather force me to drop things mid thread.

I did eventually buy a new purge valve. Every time I consider fighting with the difficult access issue it seems to snow so I've tried to stop thinking about it :biggrin:

Hopefully Soon
 

Jeffrey gray

Member
Sep 9, 2017
19
Jamestown, ny
This may be of no interest to you but for what it’s worth, a fresh perspective always is a great idea. ( we may be stuck on a notion that we can’t get out of our heads.) maybe start keeping it simple and check the obvious. Not for nothing but, I was struggling with a bunch of issues relating to evap, abs, 4wd, and level sensor. I changed everything I could think of and threw a bunch of parts at it with no avail. Finally a friend of mine took a look at it and found no power going to the back of the truck. ( how it was even running, I have no idea). Anyway I went back to basics and started checking simple things like wiring connections. Low and behold, the main connection next to the fuse block was in the unlocked position. Cured just about every problem I was having. Now I’m not saying that is your problem....all I’m saying is a fresh perspective wouldn’t hurt and check the obvious first. I’ve found it’s usually not that complicated. Also another option for you might be to have those trouble codes deleted so you can pass emissions. Not saying I know anyone that can do that but it might be worth asking.
 
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