Members remote starters and other related devices and stories.

[littleblazer]

So the way I see it, we have the off topic threads, the mod threads and the projector retrofit thread. Why not have a cumulative thread with members discussing their experiences with remote starts and security systems as well as other hardware needed. Yes the info is out there, but it is very scattered and I feel that it would be better to have all this info compiled into once place, that way it is searchable (easily anyway). And that people have an idea of what others have used and either hate or love or anything in between. Now why me you ask? Well I've done some research and know what I pretty much have to do as far as the install so this is more strictly for what do you like. So let us begin.

Since I've had the truck, I've wanted a remote starter. The selection when you open up to do it yourself is almost unlimited. Now what I would like? Basic 2 way communication that interfaces with the factory security and allows for locking, unlocking and starting at a range that is better than factory. Let's face it, the range if the tail isn't facing you is most likely less than 100 feet. So if I could get 1000 feet out of a simple essentially plug and play application, I would be very happy. So as I have done before (thoughts on projectors anyone? ) What do you currently have, do you like it, what would you recommend and if there are any, what glitches have you had to deal with.

Just in case there isn't much interest, I'll also update my progression like in the projectors thread, for starters, I'm looking at this particular kit, plug and play, 2 way, and claims a range of around 3000 feet, realistically, this is probably going to be closer to half that, in my mind any way. But it seems to come with everything one could need. Thoughts?

 

[MAY03LT]

2003 Trailblazer - Viper remote start, Xpresskit GMDLBP

Why Viper? Reliable
Why GMDLBP? Reliable

Why need GMDLBP? To use the trucks data bus to lock/unlock doors and over ride passlock during remote start. Keeps OEM factory security in tact.

Tips -

Have to diode isolate rear door triggers for alarm to monitor them (not liftgate, rear side doors). They can be found at the BCM and are negative triggers. 1N4001 is ok to use per trigger. Data bus only monitors front doors and liftgate.

Crank wire does not have to be cut. Anti-grind already built in to starter circuitry.

ACC2 (brown) - some use it and some don't. Haven't done one in one with Stabilitrac but assume it's the same as my Tahoe (see below). Don't splice ACC1 and ACC2 together. Use a (-) aux output to trigger ACC2 relay. Use a 1N4007 quenching diode across relay coil so voltage spike doesn't cook alarm brain.

White wire at cluster is best place for tach. Can verify with DMM on ACV.

2004 Tahoe - Viper remote start, Xpresskit GMDLBP

Tips - In my 04 Tahoe the ACC2 relay has to be used if it has Stabilitrac or the Service 4WD message will occur during a remote start. Same as with the trailblazer, use (-) aux out to trigger a relay and protect the brain with 1N4007 across relay coil.

A note on passlock/door lock bypasses - over the years I've had peeps bring me bypasses that they found on the internet because they were cheaper. I have a 90% DOA or unprogrammable rate with ebay/amazon bypasses. I have a 100% success rate when buying from authorized seller, both local and internet. If the dealer wants $90 and ebay has it for $35, there's a reason why. YMMV.

 

[littleblazer]

2003 Trailblazer - Viper remote start, Xpresskit GMDLBP

Why Viper? Reliable
Why GMDLBP? Reliable

Why need GMDLBP? To use the trucks data bus to lock/unlock doors and over ride passlock during remote start. Keeps OEM factory security in tact.

Tips -

Have to diode isolate rear door triggers for alarm to monitor them (not liftgate, rear side doors). They can be found at the BCM and are negative triggers. 1N4001 is ok to use per trigger. Data bus only monitors front doors and liftgate.

Crank wire does not have to be cut. Anti-grind already built in to starter circuitry.

ACC2 (brown) - some use it and some don't. Haven't done one in one with Stabilitrac but assume it's the same as my Tahoe (see below). Don't splice ACC1 and ACC2 together. Use a (-) aux output to trigger ACC2 relay. Use a 1N4007 quenching diode across relay coil so voltage spike doesn't cook alarm brain.

White wire at cluster is best place for tach. Can verify with DMM on ACV.

2004 Tahoe - Viper remote start, Xpresskit GMDLBP

Tips - In my 04 Tahoe the ACC2 relay has to be used if it has Stabilitrac or the Service 4WD message will occur during a remote start. Same as with the trailblazer, use (-) aux out to trigger a relay and protect the brain with 1N4007 across relay coil.

A note on passlock/door lock bypasses - over the years I've had peeps bring me bypasses that they found on the internet because they were cheaper. I have a 90% DOA or unprogrammable rate with ebay/amazon bypasses. I have a 100% success rate when buying from authorized seller, both local and internet. If the dealer wants $90 and ebay has it for $35, there's a reason why. YMMV.

Now with that particular model, the GMDLBP, that is the bypass module I would assume, and correct me if I'm wrong. With that particular one, the software is self contained and there is no need to program with a pc, or you need a pc interface to have proper functionality. So an authorized online dealer should suffice as well. (I've read the story's about the doa's....) And the viper units I'm looking at are quite nice.

 

[littleblazer]

Actually it seems as though that particular model is discontinued...

 

[MAY03LT]

Now with that particular model, the GMDLBP, that is the bypass module I would assume, and correct me if I'm wrong. With that particular one, the software is self contained and there is no need to program with a pc, or you need a pc interface to have proper functionality. So an authorized online dealer should suffice as well. (I've read the story's about the doa's....) And the viper units I'm looking at are quite nice.

You got it. Since the door locks in the TB/EV's are done by modules (ddm, pdm, bcm, and lcm) that use the data bus, the gmdlbp ties into the data bus and sends the lock or unlock request. It also sends a passlock signal so the truck will start during a remote start. It also interprets a door ajar message from the ddm, pdm, and lcm and signals the (-) door trigger input to the alarm. The gmdlbp doesn't need to be flashed or programmed with a pc but it does have a self contained programming button for setting platform type and drivers door priority.

Hmmm I just clicked a bookmark I had from the last one that I bought and it comes up discontinued...

 

[littleblazer]

So Just so I'm clear, the kit monitors front doors and rear hatch only, so you run the ground to the wire for that trigger on the module from the bcm. that way it thinks the front door is open, but it is actually the rear. And the diode is so that you can't back feed the bcm I would guess. The ACC2 relay trigger is only required for stabilitrac if I'm right. Then a diode across the coil, fusing the pins together or between the wire from the module to the coil itself? And pardon my ignorance, but these relays are already part of the trucks electrical system I would assume.

You got it. Since the door locks in the TB/EV's are done by modules (ddm, pdm, bcm, and lcm) that use the data bus, the gmdlbp ties into the data bus and sends the lock or unlock request. It also sends a passlock signal so the truck will start during a remote start. It also interprets a door ajar message from the ddm, pdm, and lcm and signals the (-) door trigger input to the alarm. The gmdlbp doesn't need to be flashed or programmed with a pc but it does have a self contained programming button for setting platform type and drivers door priority.

Hmmm I just clicked a bookmark I had from the last one that I bought and it comes up discontinued...

Now one last stupid question, if I were to unlock my door with my key, would the alarm sound? The reason I ask is because my dad still occasionally uses the truck and he doesn't want a remote (actually truck only came with one fob) So if he unlocks the door with his key and the alarm goes off, that would kinda suck, unless like normal, when putting the key in the ignition, it disarms the system. And now since I've broadened my horizons a little, I'm looking at this starter Viper 5706v as well as the first one. This is the one that I had originally wanted to install. Now it seems it is a matter of locating the bypass module, or taking my chances with an amazon one. Have to keep searching.

 

[littleblazer]

Finding this bypass module is proving to be much harder then I had planned, starting to wonder how bad the plug and play kit could actually be.

 

[coolasice]

I have an Ultrastart 1280-xr pro starter with a Fortin INT-SL module. (no alarm). Works great, super simple to install (total of 10 wires i believe). Never had an issue with it. My only complaint is that it is supposed to turn on the rear defrost automatically if the temp is below a certain amount but it does not work in my vehicle. I think it only works in vehicles with the automatic temp system. Cost: Ultrastart $70 from ebay, Fortin $40 from Amazon, Additional relay $Free (had on hand).

 

[littleblazer]

I think I'm going to try that plug and play kit. It seems like an okay brand, and if it doesn't work... oh well. I'll keep this updated.

 

[Chuck Bunyon]

I have the Viper 5906v. Does anyone know how to keep it from honking when you lock and unlock it? I don't want it to draw that much attention.

 

[littleblazer]

So far so good. Range is pretty good and no weird issues to date. Install wasn't bad, besides the slight internal battle I had while cutting into the ignition harness...

 

[stickypoop]

What I've gathered from searching around is:

- Brands/models of the system are optional (as long as it's a name brand) and are based on user's requirements
- A bypass module will be required, and there are preferred brands (Directed - xpresskit)
- A T-harness is optional but useful

When shopping for a system will a simple remote starter with keyless entry interface with the factory security? Or is a kit that specifically lists an alarm as a feature the thing to look for?

Most places I'm looking are listing the "DBALL2" by xpresskit ... is that the new version of what MAY03LT has recommended?

 

[MAY03LT]

- Brands/models of the system are optional (as long as it's a name brand) and are based on user's requirements
- A bypass module will be required, and there are preferred brands (Directed - xpresskit)
- A T-harness is optional but useful

Yup you got it.

When shopping for a system will a simple remote starter with keyless entry interface with the factory security? Or is a kit that specifically lists an alarm as a feature the thing to look for?

Yeah remote start/keyless-only will keep factory security. When you lock/unlock the doors with the aftermarket fob, the truck will still arm/disarm the factory security system just like the OEM fob.

Side note, if it's a remote start/keyless/alarm it also arms factory security. Double the protection I guess LOL

Yeah maybe I just have bad luck but I'm 0-1000000 with units like the dball or xks that can get firmware updates. xpresskits site has an application guide for what works with your ride. Fortin is another company that has good feedback. Plus I think with theirs you can have heater seats and rear defrost when it's 20 below.

edit - heater seats LMFAO

 

[swede]

I bought, not yet installed, Excalibur ECHO-4-LCD, Excalibur RS 150EDP+, Omega OL-MDB-ALL and a Omegalink loader so I can change the functions from my PC if I wanted to.
I'll get back to you when it's installed with some feedback.

 

[Tiggerr]

Has anyone used the viper remote start that works with a smartphone in these trucks? Very Leary of remote starts in general. Seen so many horror stories and wiring nightmares after the fact, when they start to fuckup..

 

[littleblazer]

Has anyone used the viper remote start that works with a smartphone in these trucks? Very Leary of remote starts in general. Seen so many horror stories and wiring nightmares after the fact, when they start to fuckup..

The one I have in my truck can interface with a smart phone. It needs a subscription and another antenna. It then just plugs into the module. I just didn't want to pay lol. As for the wiring. I had to tap the ignitor wires and like 2 or 3 more. So it is very clean.

 

[Tiggerr]

I've seen ads for the viper but no mention of subscription. I'll have to check that out.

Thx

 

[littleblazer]

I've seen ads for the viper but no mention of subscription. I'll have to check that out.

Thx

I don't know if the viper would be the same. I think it was 100 for like 3 years for mine.

 

[stickypoop]

I've seen ads for the viper but no mention of subscription. I'll have to check that out.

Thx

Viper calls it "SmartStart"
https://www.viper.com/smartstart/serviceplans.aspx

 

[Tiggerr]

Appreciate the info guys thx. The shop that sells them here, doesn't have anything about that on their site. Naturally lol.

 

[coolasice]

I have an Ultrastart 1280-xr pro starter with a Fortin INT-SL module. (no alarm). Works great, super simple to install (total of 10 wires i believe). Never had an issue with it. My only complaint is that it is supposed to turn on the rear defrost automatically if the temp is below a certain amount but it does not work in my vehicle. I think it only works in vehicles with the automatic temp system. Cost: Ultrastart $70 from ebay, Fortin $40 from Amazon, Additional relay $Free (had on hand).

anyone else use an int-sl+ for their ride?

 

[littleblazer]

anyone else use an int-sl+ for their ride?

I believe mine is.

 

[coolasice]

Do you have digital hvac? just wanted to verify that the defrost was working with our trucks. mine doesn't turn on when it's cold.

 

[littleblazer]

I have the manual... I only hooked up the essentials for it tbh. I don't really need all the auto features. You may need another sensor for it to work perhaps?

 

[coolasice]

Its supposed to be automatic via the databus, reads engine temp, if below such temp turn on defrost/heated seats

 

[littleblazer]

I don't know if ours can work over the data bus. I mean it should, but I don't think mine does. I also don't have heated seats.

 

[coolasice]

Someone else said it did for them, but they had the digital system... I just flashed newer firmware, will see in the morning if it makes a difference.

 

[littleblazer]

Someone else said it did for them, but they had the digital system... I just flashed newer firmware, will see in the morning if it makes a difference.

Yes, if you don't have the digital HVAC it may not work. It does work when you toggle it right? I don't remember if one of the programs on the module was to toggle that. I am referring to the valet button programming. I don't believe there was.

 

[stickypoop]

Yes, if you don't have the digital HVAC it may not work.

I wonder if adding the temp sensor would be enough to make it work (as per the compass mirror mods) ...

 

[coolasice]

Yes, if you don't have the digital HVAC it may not work. It does work when you toggle it right? I don't remember if one of the programs on the module was to toggle that. I am referring to the valet button programming. I don't believe there was.

yes it works fine when i push the defroster button, there was no option for that in my remote start programming.

I wonder if adding the temp sensor would be enough to make it work (as per the compass mirror mods) ...

already have that mod and did not make a difference

 

[littleblazer]

yes it works fine when i push the defroster button, there was no option for that in my remote start programming.



already have that mod and did not make a difference

Maybe see via an obd reader if the ECT is below 32 degrees? According to the manual it will only activate if it is lower then that. All the accessory wires power on correct? Just spit balling at this point lol.

 

[coolasice]

Yes... pretty sure it says below 32 as it is 26 outside now... I tried it again at 7am this morning (1.5hrs ago), no defrost, must need digital hvac for it to work.

 

[littleblazer]

I guess. Since it could also toggle the front hvac on the 2 way system it may need to be digital. I'll have to check mine when it gets colder. Still flirting with mid 60s during the day and high 40s at night.

 

[stickypoop]

Strange thing is that the manufacturer lists the Envoy/ Trailblazer as compatible, without being specific to certain vehicle options... just a blanket green light

 

[coolasice]

OK... wrote to fortin and asked about it... here is their replies to my questions:

Me: "Does the INT-SL+ require any input to turn on the rear defrost on a 2008 Chevy trailblazer, or is it automatic depending on engine temperature? Is the vehicle required to have the digital automatic hvac controls or will the defrost work on the manual style also? Thanks."

Them(Anthony Pazienza): "the int-sl+ in the Trailblazer will turn on rear defrost on your vehicle when the temperature is 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit when remote started. It doesn't matter if you have manual HVAC controls, it goes on at set temp and goes off when desired temp has been attained (vehicle decides) or when run-time times out. Hope this helps!"

Me: "It was 20 degrees F this morning and the rear defrost never turned on, never has when remote started? I even updated firmware in the int-sl+ and no change. Everything else works as required. What am I missing? Thanks"

Them(Anthony Pazienza): "may also depend on what default factory settings are set on the car"
Them(Robert): "Just to clarify. The INT-SL monitors engine temperature and not outside temperature. So either the engine temperature was not cold enough or the engine temperature sensor is not functioning correctly.
Please keep in mind it's also possible engine temperature is not on the data network of your vehicle or the codes are different. It's also possible that rear defrost cannot be enabled through data.
If having rear defrost control is something you would like to have, simply wire it up to using AUX output of the remote starter brain. This will allow full control of when it turns on."

Me: "Is that engine coolant temp or oil temp?"

Them(Anthony Pazienza): "that would be engine coolant temperature."


It is kind of up in the air whether it works or not now... I don't even think they have any clue....
I wonder if my ect sensor is not seeing cold enough temps to turn it on? I will have to check next time it is below freezing...

 

[coolasice]

I guess. Since it could also toggle the front hvac on the 2 way system it may need to be digital. I'll have to check mine when it gets colder. Still flirting with mid 60s during the day and high 40s at night.

I believe the bcm controls the rear defrost and don't think it needs to communicate with the hvac system...if i remember the comments i saw about it working on the digital system said the light never came on indicating the defrost was on but it was indeed on as measured with a dmm.

 

[littleblazer]

I believe the bcm controls the rear defrost and don't think it needs to communicate with the hvac system...if i remember the comments i saw about it working on the digital system said the light never came on indicating the defrost was on but it was indeed on as measured with a dmm.

I gave it a test today on the envoy since it is around 25 here, the block temp was 30 when I started it. Only the seat heat appeared to come on. Not the defroster. And this is with a digital havc. 2002 envoy I6.

 

[mntegra01]

Hey guys new here... Hope I am in the right spot, here goes...

I bought a 2003 Base LS 2WD for $200 at work that had a blown trans with 183K miles. I rebuilt it, replaced suspension parts, w-pump, motor mounts, plugs,... everything, the whole works. She runs and drives like a dream. So now I am about 10+ hours into a keyless entry/RS install. Had to tell if I installed it correctly as there seems to be little info on the Compustar and I am a novice at wiring keyless entry and definitions of terms. I used the12volt.com website and bulldogsecurity and cross referenced my wiring, along with connector end views in SI.

I am installing a Compustar CS700-AS and an Omegalink OL-MDB-GM1. I am assuming that I wired everything up correctly. If anyone has insight on what could an issue be, I am all ears. I can tell you how to install a 4.2 water pump in less than 30 minutes.

What works

• siren chirp with un/lock
• remote start attempts (starter wire not cut yet, want to make sure basic functions work first)
• bypass module seems to program. I long hold the button to confirm D2D method, and then insert key, led turns red, turn key to start, module led turns green and goes out.
• I can start with key, press remote keys to keep engine running and remove key and stays running, until brake or hood is popped. doors unlock at that time, not sure if it is the bypass module doing that or the BCM doing it because its in park and engine running?

What does NOT work

• parking lights flash (I thought would be controlled by data cable, but I can hook up straight if need be)
• door locks do not unlock or lock with remote
• horn does not honk when arming or disarming, only siren

What I 'think' may be my problem

• I flashed the idatalink/omegalink module about 2 months ago, maybe without power lost memory? going to reflash module and try again.
• But that brings me to the fact that doors DO lock when attempting to remote start.
• my relay for 2nd accessory may be bad. I may have it wired wrong for brown wire on IGN harness.
• maybe my 2nd accessory has power after key starting and that's why doors lock, and the relay is my problem.

What I am going to try next

• get the proper relay
• reflash module

Anyone has any ideas or input, I would appreciate it. I have SI documents and plenty or resources online, but there is not much on what if the bypass does NOT work. Maybe typing this all out, I helped myself get a basis for where to go.

So for the water pump trick, unbolt the fan, remove the pulley bolts from WP, take out 2 fan to clutch bolts, loosen other 2, knock clutch from fan center, install 2 long 3.4L/3.1L intake bolts into clutch, remove other 2 short bolts, let clutch hang in the gap between the fan and radiator, remove the WP pulley and remove the water pump. If you don't have those intake bolts, just go to your parts dept and get some long M8 bolts maybe 3 inches long. You will see when you get there. DO NOT let your clutch hit the radiator, this should NOT happen if you keep a bolt in it at all times.

Thanks for listening.

-MAC

 

[mntegra01]

Just adding a resolution to this. My initial problem was that the bypass functions did not work. Doors lock/unlock. So since it had been MONTHS since I flashed the Omegalink OL-MDB-GM1, I decided to reflash it, in case I missed an update or something. So I flashed it again and it was successful. Putting it into the veh gave me more led flashes and lights than before so I was like 'cool!' well on 1 unlock press it would not unlock the doors, but on second press, it unlocked ALL doors. So, went into advanced settings and got rid of priority unlock and added force all doors unlock on first press. Everything is working great now. I just need to loom and tape it up and reassemble the dash. Thanks guys!