Time to make this place feel a lil more homely Alright boys and girls, time to show off your stuff!
- Pair of 2' side emitting LED strips from Oznium.com
- Add a fuse (and some wiring)
One of the first LED mods I did to my truck. Shown here is version 3.0 which looked the best IMO
I used an add a fuse plugged into fuse 22 in the front fuse block to run the eyebrows as DRLs
Here's a couple of shots during indoor testing to check the light output after dark.
And some night shots after being installed.
I did have to remove these after a few months, the same issue with versions 1 and 2 sprang up with these, where (I assume) a solder joint broke. I did not know anything about soldering at the time, so I didn't attempt to fix them myself.
- 5mm blue 1600mcd, 90 degree viewing angle, straw hat LEDs
- 470 ohm 1/4W resistors
Those of us with manual HVAC controls that need/want to replace bulbs all want to avoid doing THIS!!
I came up with an alternative that may be useful so I thought I'd share. The idea of heating the tabs to soften them up to make removal easier seemed logical. Using a heat gun didn't work, as the first pic was my result. The idea of heating the metal slider directly, so the heat was applied to the inside of the tab seemed like a better idea, as the whole tab wouldn't have to melt first. My solution was this. Pulled out the etching bit from my Dremel kit, and bore out a section on the inside of the tab down to the slider.
Once the metal was exposed, put my soldering iron to it for a few seconds while gently pulling on the tab with my fingers. I could feel it slowly start to slip, and then it slipped right off with ease. Much better feeling than hearing the snap of the slider breaking.
Hopefully you can see them clear enough, but there are tiny teeth on the tips of the sliders that keep the tabs on. THIS is why many of us have broken them on our attempts.
One thing I found out when my replacement arrived today and I tested it, 2 of the bulbs were already out. When I tried to test those spots for polarity, the contacts on the board were actually dead giving no voltage. So I ran some jumper wires from good contacts to the dead ones.
LEDs all mounted up
The tabs slip back onto the sliders, and you can probably feel the teeth catch their grip. I considered using a dab of silicone, but turns out it won't be needed. After putting everything back together, you can barely tell any cutting was done to the tabs unless you're looking for it.