Discussion in 'Appearance' started by Blckshdw, Dec 25, 2011.
What reverse LED projectors are you guys running? Looking for the best usable output, obviously
I am running these with 5630 chips. Very bright. My aftermarket LED tails use an 1156 for the reverse bulb. They make 3157s in the same design.
Different seller but same design that I use as well. They do a decent job, but I'm trying to design something more to go back there (not in the reverse lamp housings).
EDIT: I have so many ideas for LED projects but I've lost use of my dominant hand. I'd love to share these with someone. Should I just post them or would someone like me to share privately?
That sucks, what's wrong?
Feel free to post ideas, IMO.
I am all for hearing the ideas!
Is the loss of use permanent?
This one is about ready to be sealed back up, then its onto the next one.
Pictures taken with DSLR so I could adjust the brightness of the image to tone down the LEDs a bit, and they were running off a 9v battery instead of 12v.
( I still need to get that adjustable power supply for bench testing)
Nice job man, I like that a lot. Turned out great!
How much you want for em? Awesome work man.
Thanks for the kind words. I hope to have them done and installed by the end of the month.
Going to be building a 3rd brake light as well that will be inside the rear window.
I currently have an LED strip in the rear window. Looks great at night but during the day you cant see it. Cheap SMD led strip.
I am going to explore a few options to diffuse the tail lights. at the 12v they will be running at, they are extremely bright. I will get some pictures properly exposed shortly.
Here is the output at 12v, full power to the LEDs simulating the brake being applied.
They will be about 1/3 that bright when the brake is not applied.
And multiply that by 2 when the other is finished. Looking directly at them burns 120 spots into your vision. That is why I am thinking of doing something to diffuse the light a bit. But then I think about some newer cars with how bright their tails are.
Aug 2014 I got shot by a carjacker. Had some pics in the whore thread.
Yeah, it's permanent. No movement of the thumb, maybe 1/2" of the index finger, and no grip using the other three fingers. There is only pain when I breathe, and it swells all the time (restricting usage). They want to remove the index finger, but have said they don't know if that would alleviate swelling. Many patients, I was told by the physical therapist, experience more pain from it. So likely not going to happen.
IDEA 1.) Funny, Rich just mentioned it above. A third brake light, full width of the hatch glass, contoured to the glass. It could be mounted to the glass or to the inside of the opening for the glass. Maybe 5 mm LEDs, in a channel. I'd want to use a pulse flasher with this one or the next one: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/
IDEA 2.) Combo 3rd (4th?) and reverse light. Not sure if this would work too well, but I like the idea of it. Either mounted at the top of the plate or bottom (top might interfere with plate illuminating lamps). Red and white (every other) LEDs, each color on their own circuit. Brakes light up the red, reverse lights up both circuits. Not sure how I was going to make this waterproof.
IDEA 3.) Small strip in each door pocket, attached to interior light circuit.
IDEA 4.) Cut out behind reflector on lower portion of door panels, add LEDs, add circuit connected to open door trigger. If your interior lights are off you still want that light to come one.
More to come. Let me know what you think so far. I have one that is a lot more complicated, likely requiring thermo-resistors and maybe a logic board.
Damn, sorry that happened to you. People that steal or try to make me so mad.
I will make the 3rd brake light idea happen, been toying with that idea in my head since I saw the new audis and bmws with them.
I like the idea of the light on the plate as well. I dont think it would be too hard to waterproof it.
I do REALLY like the idea of LEDs in that reflector at the bottom of the door.
Oh I remember that now.
I like the pocket and doors ideas. I want to do something with the Silverado maybe I'll steal some of your ideas for it if you don't mind
If you use my ideas I ask that you post build and finished pictures. I'd really like if you'd be willing to build an extra if I pay for it.
IDEA 5.) Requires thermistors and logic or Arduino, but I have found a schematic ready to go. Red and blue leds. One of the resistors in a heating duct along with the LEDs. The second resistor somewhere in the cabin. If the heat coming from the ducting is hotter than the air in the cabin, red leds light in the center air outlets. If colder from the ducts, blue (or green or whatever colors you'd want to use). This would require the measurement and comparison of the thermo resistors. The schematic for the circuit is here: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/144317/dual-input-temperature-comparison-circuit
If I come up with a good practical way to build that 3rd brake light that would be easy for you to install. I would absolutely build you one.
Most of the time when I build things I make it easy for me to install.
I will do my planning on this and see what I can come up with.
I was thinking of grooved track. I know someone on here built some DRLs with a track (like T-track). It just came to me that Schedule 40 PVC pipe might also work, but we're talking a table saw and jig to cut a section out (going from an O shape to a C shape). I was thinking of something measured between the twin cables for the rear defrost, maybe add a rubber/foam gasket, and have it mounted to the upper opening. Wiring should be pretty straight-forward from the current center light.
How about you? What were you thinking?
The current setup that I have, which I quickly put together is an L bracket (just one of those clear L shaped pieces that protect the corners of your walls.
And I took some cheap LED strip and stuck it to that and put it between (like you said) both rear defrost wires (its about 32.5") and screwed it in with some small screws because I knew it would be temp.
I cut the old harness off of the OEM 3rd brake light and soldered and heat shrunk it and plugged it in.
I need to get back there and test voltages of the harness when the vehicle is on. When I build custom LEDs I always use a voltage regulator to keep it at 12v and that is what I base my series of LEDS on. If that stays at 12v, and only fluctuates to like 12.3 or so on the high side I could do without the v-reg.
I almost forgot. With the back window 3rd brake light if its inside. you NEED to have something that is blow the LED strip that sits almost perfectly flush against the rear window. Having it set back even a bit with nothing ti stop the light from bleeding into the truck will result in the whole back inside of your truck glowing red.
IDEA 6.) Perimeter lighting, probably mounted on the underside of the bumpers, the running boards (or bottom edge of body if no boards). Could add in wheel wells. Using diodes, connect to interior circuit, then also to reverse lamp circuit. The perimeter will come on with the interior (open door, using remote, alarm activation, etc) and when going into reverse. The diode will prevent interior lights from activating with reverse. Great for those of us who parallel park when it's dark out. The "curb activation" mirror is great - when you can see what you're next to.
Well, one of the tail lights is 100% complete and ready to go in.
This week I am going to grind hard as can be to finish up the other one and then run wires from the trailer harness to the drivers side storage compartment in the rear, and then to each tail light from the controller board.
I will post completed pics and video asap.
Why from the trailer harness? Why not from the taillight connections?
Because each tail light that I have built has the 2 boards. both only have one positive and negative for all 3 functions (brake/signal/marker) And no wire at the tail light connections provides that
The controller board I am using for the tail lights have 2 inputs and one output.
The inputs are the brake/signal, and the marker. unfortunately the trailblazer does not have this setup where it has the one bulb control all 3, but the trailer harness does.
I feel like I explained this more difficult than it should have. If you have any questions because I have had a few drinks.. let me know haha! Thanks for asking!
There are modules out there that will recombine the separated signals if you don't want to mess with rerouting the trailer harness inside. Personally I'd rather retain the trailer connector for a trailer and use the tail harness for tails. JMO.
I wont ever tow anything or haul anything and the opti-drive that I have is a very difficult thing to get ahold of.
What I am trying to do is not as simple I would guess, if it was I would think it would have been done already, especially by blkshdw
But if you have a link to those modules that do this I would greatly appreciate it for future projects.
I have wild plans of wiring up led bulbs in the stock locations and using pwm drivers to drive the brake/turn/marker circuits. That's how I have it in my Mustang and love the functionality of the driver's. I get them from diode dynamics. 10 or 15 bucks for a pair.
Has two inputs and one output. One input turns them on in a pwm dimmed mode and when the other input is turned on they go to a 100% duty cycle. The dimmed function is endlessly variable by a potentiometer on the board 0-100% duty cycle.
They can't provide the needed voltage for your array but they can handle the dimming and such. I should've called them dimmers instead of drivers.
Actually, this sounds like a great addition for the rear window brake light that I've been discussing with Rich.
That is if you want it to have a running light mode like the taillights.
That's what I'm thinking. Just need to find channel now. Looking for about 1" wide U channel, probably plastic.
Well, I know its not a picture but I have started on the final tail light. I have the LEDs laid out for the reverse light. And have the boards measured and marked to be cut and painted for the top and bottom lenses.
I hope to have these done in the next week and a half at the most.
Not sure if this goes here but since it's part of an LED project.... Let me know if I should post it somewhere else Carlton.
A few days ago I mentioned cutting the door panels behind the reflectors and adding LEDs in there. Does anyone know where I can tap into a single wire to have them come on when any door is open (possibly including liftgate) or do you think each would have to be wired to each door's circuit? I don't want to use the interior light circuit as I don't have them come on with the door. I'd still want the mod to illuminate when any door is opened.
I have a 2005 Trailblazer door lock schematic (I have a 2006 Envoy but it gives me some base).
I looked through our direct message and could not find in there why you do not want them on the interior light circuit.
I am curious why you do not want them on that circuit since you want them to come on when the door opens? That would be the easiest way to wire them up.
(I probably missed you explaining why you do not want to do it that way, I apologize)
My doors do not trigger my interior lights. I have them set to come on with the remote or manually.
I am sure you already have thought about this, But what about tapping into the foot wheel lights for each door side, and also the cargo light in the rear for the lift gate? (I have had a bit to drink tonight, sorry if I make little to no sense)
I don't have footwell lights and my cargo light doesn't come on unless I have the dash switch set to ignite the lights with the doors open. I'll blame it on the C2H6O.
both tails are 100% complete. The 2 prong waterproof connectors will come in the mail Tuesday. Unfortunately the weather this week is going to be trash so I wont be able to get them in until this weekend.
Got a picture, not the best. Hard to get a picture of 240 lumileds, even if they are at 8v on a cellphone camera.
3rd brake light finished. Just a strip of 5050 leds in an aluminum LED u channel.
This is everything lit up full brightness. I wanted to see how it looked together in a picture.
Tails will be going in on Friday. Maybe the 3rd brake light too. I want to run the 3rd brake light through where the defroster wires go through instead of the ghetto way I had it with my temp one.
working on a spare hvac manual dual climate control led swap... i dont have the color wires around atm, can anyone tell me on j2 the 24 pin connector which ones are the 12 volts and ground?
If you're just trying to test your work, there's an easier way. Luckily all of the contacts on the illumination circuit are configured in parallel, so what I did was connect my test bench leads to one positive leg (pre resistor of course) and one negative leg. Current will get everywhere it needs to
Or have you not gotten that far yet?
Awesome thank you. It did cross my mind but wanted to make sure. Will test it today, moving today
And finally, I give you the tail lights that I built. 240 Lumiled red/orange, and 30 Nichia white LEDs controlled by an opti-drive PWM
These things are insanely bright and look incredible. I hope yall like them!
not going to lie.. that is completely bad ass!!!!! if at any point you start to make the leds for sale, and we can retro them into our own housings.. let me know!
Nice work man. Those tails looks great.
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