Discussion in 'Appearance' started by Blckshdw, Dec 25, 2011.
hmmm something is not right...
Yeah - you've only got 4 discs in the player.
OK - so the temp controls?
Yep... Everything worked for about 5 min then the temp lights went dark.... So out it came and found this.. DOH!!
Cold solder joints and shorting?
The joints all looked good and nothing was touching... Seems like just bad resistors...
One of the LEDs on my temp slider is starting to go. Comes back to life when it's cold out (for FL anyway ) That huge bag of Ebay cheapies was a great idea when starting out. I'm tempted to chuck all of them, and redo my interior with quality stuff.
I learned the hard way with the ebay cheapies. The first set of tail lights I made was with a bunch of straight from china piranha superflux LEDS. They lasted about a year before what seemed like half of them died, and they were not any brighter than the incandescent bulbs.
Now my question is, does the temp slider have bulbs in it from the factory? If so, mine are burnt out in the TB.
Yes, there's a small bulb for each slider. When I bought that batch, my LED mod bug was an infant. So minimizing cost was top priority in case of failure.
Considering how many I used, I've had relatively good luck with the number that have burnt out on me. May have helped to use slightly larger resistors and not run the LEDS near their max current. But you know what they say about hindsight...
Thanks, Good to know there are bulbs there. What bulb number for the oem bulbs? It would be nice to get those to light up again.
There isn't one, what some have done is just get yourself a 12v bulb from Radio Shack, but then those members no longer exist to me cuz LEDs!!
So, I have 32 of the 120 led's for this tail wired up.
Lets just say the tablet camera could not pick it up very well haha
Yeah, this is where having a variable rate power supply for a test bench really comes in handy. For the pic in my avatar, I was running only 9V through the LEDs, otherwise it would look just like yours
Direct line of site photos of LEDs usually don't come out very well in the dark at full operating power. You need to have ambient light in the shot, to get rid of the glare.
That was in a fully lit room at 9v. What power supply do you have?
To be fair, the camera on the tablet is not the best in the world. Next time I will have to use the dslr.
dude, you need to ban that tablet camera!
Here's the link I saved to the power supply I have. Looks like it's out of stock, but I'm sure other sellers have it too. I love using it to test LED stuff without needing resistors.
Thanks for the link! I will definitely have to get that or one like it.
I right now use a modified PC power supply, which works, but all you get is 12v
I was doing the same thing for a while, until I started using it for my HID test bench. Didn't last too long after that.
I don't know what the purpose of the yellow and green clips were for, they are wired differently in that little junction box. I resoldered them to the black and reds, giving me 3 pairs of leads. That's very handy when I'm laying out something on a bread board that requires multiple inputs.
That's a much more wallet friendly price. Since i don't use high beams hardly ever, I'd look for a cheap brand without a fan. 1 less thing to fail. But for low beams (cuz i want to try them in my next retro) definitely need a cooling fan.
I dont use high beams a ton, but also not sure on what all I want/need out of trying LED. I need H1 bulbs and the prices are all over the map. I think this kit would work as well or am I missing something?
I do kinda like the Amazon Prime ones though for the Prime protection if return needed.
Thats an interesting design. I was not aware anyone was making a three-sided post with LED chips for 360* light output. That would probably have a much better beam pattern than the two-sided posts. I see they offer a two year warranty as well.
If you want to avoid cutting the backside of your headlights, the Philips LED headlights that Kevin sells has a heat sink that has a 2" diameter or 50mm and is 1.4" long or 36mm for reference.
Based on the dimensions of the set you posted, looks like they would fit without modification as the heat sink is smaller.
***Edit, I was looking at the 9005 LED for the three-sided post design. Forgot you got a set of aftermarket projector headlights that run H1s.
I will have new headlights they are going in and they use H1 bulbs. I really hope to not cut them up.
I've seen some good things about these also. The flexible, fanless heatsink is a pretty cool idea (no pun intended).
I have a hard time believing 8000 lumens from those ones on Amazon.
Saw a bunch that style and for much cheaper, but did not really trust it myself. Not sure why, but just not a comfy feeling about em.
I never believe any of the lumen shit myself. they all lie or at least count by the BEST of best case scenarios. Much like amplifiers. I just want something decent and if they are half, they are are not bad imo.
When Kevin stopped carrying replacement parts for his Crees, I was looking at these. 2 year warranty and are comparable in size to Kevin Cree LEDs (No cutting). Also, the combined lumen output is the same at 7600 and 6000k in color which is about the standard for LED headlights.
Since you are putting them into a projector, a three-sided post design would be optimal for the 360* light output versus the two-sided.
I think only the low is projected. I did look at those you linked several times. I wonder what kind of best offer they would take.
Highs are just reflectors. I think a 2 sided would be best on the reflector because of how it is designed. a 3 sided light just wouldn't hit the bowl right.
Those amazon units for the H1 bulb are 2 sided only looking at the specs and pics. 3 sided for some of the other bulb styles.
Bingo. Thinking they may be the ticket.
Those Starks require not using the dust boot on the back of the assembly. Just wanted to point that out in case you hadn't noticed.
Saw this middle article at hackaday.com and thought (in my best 1930s radio voice), "Only the Shadow knows!"
I've seen a lot of disinformation floating around the web about what causes cruise control to stop working when you go LED crazy.
The most common myth is that it's caused by the T10/194 bulbs in the front.
Putting a resistor (6 ohm) on just one of the brake lights will restore cruise control.
I put it on my driver's side brake light, running between the black ground wire and the blue brake wire immediately next to it. Problem solved.
Thankfully, that myth has never been brought up around here. Ban hammers would have been swung if that was the case.
I know the conversation first started on the OS, when it was determined that those of us with aftermarket tails weren't affected. On closer inspection of my Depos (as well as the ICPW, and the other LED array setups), both the brake and turn signal wires pass through the thermally potted load resistors that are built in.
No one has taken the time to put a load resistor on the brake bulb to see what it took to resolve the issue, so thanks for being the 'trailblazer' on this one.
I'm thinking if someone is gonna end up having to splice in a load resistor on the brake bulb, they're gonna opt for load resistors all around, instead of spending the money on the flasher module though.
By "the web" I was implying the OS.
I think I even read over there that putting a resistor on the "taillights" fixes it, but nobody knew which side or how many.
I bought a lot of those generic golden 50W 6ohm resistors direct from China for pennies on the dollar. The time to solder one in when I did each bulb was nothing, plus I have spares.
Junk yard score today for the tb, may have another one lined up for the end of the week for the envoy. White needles if anyone in Ontario needs a bravada cluster without white needles I'll have one for grabs
No such thing as too many leds!!!!
That instrument panel is gorgeous!
I'm in the market for some 9005 LED Bulbs For the high beams. Anyone have experience with any? I know a few of y'all are running dfwwiz Phillips bulbs, any others out there that aren't junk, and are maybe cheaper?
I'm well versed in HIDs and leds, just not high power headlight leds. I see two, four, and some eight chip designs along with dozens of cob designs but I've never been a fan of cob chips. Any insight?
I see ones on eBay exactly like Kev's Phillips bulbs then I see some rated 6000 lumens with two chips instead of four.
I've did a bit of research but really can't find anything on forums other than here and sso about Kevin's.
Drivers side about ready to be sealed up. Just have to mount the boards inside the housing permanently. Onto the passenger after that.
You doing any side firing turn signal LEDs on the top set, or leaving those out?
Yeah, I am going to be putting 8 LEDs in that opening where it would usually side fire on a 1x1" board
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