Key points for 4l60E removal/installation on 4.2L GMT360's

Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
There seems to of been an unfortunate trend lately with people having transmission related issues, causing them to have to drop theirs. I've installed and removed the 4L60E a handful of times now on several GMT360's. During my times spent doing so, I've learned a few key things to look out for or take care of while the trans is already out. So I decided that I wanted to make a helpful thread here to list some key things to look out for and remember when removing/installing our transmissions.

*Convenient Torque Specs located at the bottom*
Two Top Bolts:
-Leave the top two bolts in partially before you drop it, to make sure all transmission and fuel lines are clear, wiring harnesses are clear, and you've got the transmission steadily balanced on a jack. For reassembly do the top bolts first again, but this time making sure you've got the bolts through the two brackets (see picture below) on the line running parallel across the top of where the engine and transmission meet. This is highly important! You will not be able to seat the transmission to the rear of the engine properly if you fail to do this.
OTAH7Z.png


Alignment Guides:
-There are two "nipples" that are located on the each side, on the rear of the engine where the transmission seats, they mate right with the bell housing. If you've got those "nipples" seated in the bell housing, everything is lined up properly.
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uf4GLv.png


Rear Main Seal:
If you've got the transmission out and you've never replaced the rear main seal, now is a good time to go ahead and replace it if yours is leaking. More than likely than not your GMT360 has the original one still. These are known to be one of the more common causes of oil loss on the 4.2L GMT360's.

-Clean any gunky/burned up oil at the rear of the engine real good with some engine de-greaser, "Gunk" de-greasers especially, they work wonders. I marked the areas that needed typically need cleaning. Be sure to sand down the gasket surface area as well with light grit sand paper. You want as smooth an area as possible for the best seal.
img_20160925_123218-jpg.80771

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-It doesn't hurt to add RTV sealant below the rear main seal area, to further reduce the chance of any oil leaking from this area.
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Torque Converter installation key point:
When reassembling, make sure the torque converter is fully seated as far back as it can go by turning it until it slides back, then rotating it around again until it slides back once more. If it's not seated properly, it'll break the plastic piece on the pump(can't recall the name of this piece)! You'll know it broke if the vehicle isn't moving in any gear you put it in.

*----Interesting fact:----*
Why did GM make this part plastic? As a fail-safe, to save the rest of the transmission pump from an issue that would otherwise cause catastrophic failure to the pump as a whole.

Broken plastic:
img_20160823_040021-jpg.80772


You can see how the plastic part of the pump here keeps all those small pieces in check and in a certain position (left) vs. the right, where half of it is all cock-eyed:
img_20160823_040016-jpg.80773


Healthy unbroken plastic:

img_20160823_040027-jpg.80774



Retaining Clips:
-Make sure you do not lose any retaining clips for the transmission cooler lines. They can be easy to lose track of among all the tools and parts lying under the truck. You'll need them to make sure the return and feed lines are locked in place. They can be quite a pain to remove and re-install, so just be patient.
figure1_365.jpg

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-To remove the retaining clips; Insert a pick between the indent on the cooling line connection (refer to red arrows below) and the small raised portion on the retaining clip, then pry upwards.
kfYF8R.png


Transmission dipstick seal:
-When reassembling, make sure the transmission dipstick seal (refer to picture above) is in place, as well as make sure you fully seated the dipstick in place before you jack the transmission up fully and put the cross-member in. It's a PITA to put it in place once everything is bolted up already. It's doable, but it's difficult because of lack of space and not being able to see what you're doing. If the seal isn't there or if the dipstick isn't in all the way it'll spew transmission fluid all over the exhaust pipe every time you take a sharp left turn. Transmission fluid is highly flammable; exhaust systems can range between 689°F (no load/ no throttle) - 1,533°F (100% throttle)

Dipstick seal:
5707463_rnb_65113_pri_larg.jpg



Paint Marking:
-Use a paint marker on all the torque converter bolts as well as the flex plate to check for any walking themselves out after installation; had it happen before with a torque converter.
img_20160925_125641-jpg.80769


-Use a paint marker to identify the position of the driveshaft to the differential yoke for reassembly. It's important to make sure the driveshaft is reinstalled in the same position in order for it to preserve balance.
DS6gLP.png
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-Putting a latex glove with a bunch of electrical tape around the end of the transmission tail shaft will hopefully keep any transmission fluid from spilling all over the floor.
img_20160925_102811-jpg.80768


-When reassembling, bolt the transmission mount (see picture above) on the tail shaft before you put the cross-member in, makes everything much easier.

-Blue Loctite is your friend, add to all bolts on the drive shaft straps, flex plate, and torque converter. This will keep vibrations from loosening any bolts.

Torque Specs:
  • Driveshaft U-Joint Straps - 15lbs
  • Front Crossmember - 37lbs
  • Park/Neutral Position switch - 18lbs
  • Flex Plate - 18lbs, followed by an additional 50° of rotation
  • Rear Main Seal oil seal housing bolts - 89lbs
  • Torque Converter-to-Flexplate - 44lbs
  • Transmission-to-Engine Block - 37lbs
  • Transmission Heat Shield - 13lbs
  • Transmission Mount - 18lbs
  • Transmission Pan - 8lbs, star pattern method
 

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Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Very good writeup. Added to the FAQ.
 

Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA

HizAndHerz

Member
Oct 28, 2013
70
Capote, excellent write up and good supplement to the FSM. How hard is it to get to the top two transmission bolts? That's my next step and so far I haven't been able to determine how to access them.
Thanks!
-Jorns
 
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Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Capote, excellent write up and good supplement to the FSM. How hard is it to get to the top two transmission bolts? That's my next step and so far I haven't been able to determine how to access them.
Thanks!
-Jorns
Thanks a lot, much appreciated:tiphat:

The way to get access to the top two bolts is to unbolt the transmission mount, followed by removing the rear cross-member. Then lower the transmission (while nothing is unbolted between the bell housing and engine of course) a little bit until you have room to maneuver your 4 feet-or-so of extensions to reach the top bolts; or lower it until it will not move anymore due to it making contact with the front cross-member. Make sure all lines & wiring harnesses are disconnected before you lower the trans. It will not damage anything if the trans and engine are at this angle sitting on the cross-member as long as wiring, lines, and shift cable are unattached.
Once you have those two top bolts removed, jack the trans back to it's normal position and then proceed to unbolt the rest of the bolts attaching the bell-housing to the rear of the engine. It helps if you have a long magnetic pick-up tool to reach the top bolts while there loose. They tend to get hung up on the brackets attached to the ling that runs up top of the bell-housing. They are reachable by hand, but it's not easy at all.
 

HizAndHerz

Member
Oct 28, 2013
70
...Then lower the transmission (while nothing is unbolted between the bell housing and engine of course) a little bit until you have room to maneuver your 4 feet-or-so of extensions to reach the top bolts...

Excellent -- I've done before on other vehicles but it's been several years since I've been physically able to work on cars. It's like I have to learn how to do stuff all over again. This forum keeps saving my butt over and over, and I greatly appreciate it!
 
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Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Excellent -- I've done before on other vehicles but it's been several years since I've been physically able to work on cars. It's like I have to learn how to do stuff all over again. This forum keeps saving my butt over and over, and I greatly appreciate it!
It's just like riding a bike, you never forget.
We've got a great community here for sure:2thumbsup:
 
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Jeffrey gray

Member
Sep 9, 2017
19
Jamestown, ny
Very good write up but is that RTV applied from the outside? In my experience, any RTV applied from the outside, will not work for very long, if at all. So if you’re applying RTV without pulling the parts....BAD IDEA.
 
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Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Very good write up but is that RTV applied from the outside? In my experience, any RTV applied from the outside, will not work for very long, if at all. So if you’re applying RTV without pulling the parts....BAD IDEA.
Thanks brother:tiphat:
I should of been a bit clearer on that part. RTV was applied on the bottom of the rear main seal housing along with from the outside.
 

Jeffrey gray

Member
Sep 9, 2017
19
Jamestown, ny
Ok, not to dis the job you did or the outcome you came up with but, great write up btw, any RTV applied outside is a waist of time and RTV. Plus, the next person that gets in there....be it you or the next guy....says what the heck is that? In my experience.... what you do is directly reflected by who works on it next Bottom line.. don’t put RTV on the outside. Won’t work. Looks like crap. Waist of time and the next person will question the integrity of the repair and probably end up replacing it. No matter if it leaks or not. Js
 

Capote

Original poster
Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Ok, not to dis the job you did or the outcome you came up with but, great write up btw, any RTV applied outside is a waist of time and RTV. Plus, the next person that gets in there....be it you or the next guy....says what the heck is that? In my experience.... what you do is directly reflected by who works on it next Bottom line.. don’t put RTV on the outside. Won’t work. Looks like crap. Waist of time and the next person will question the integrity of the repair and probably end up replacing it. No matter if it leaks or not. Js

Nobody else will be working on my truck but myself and a close friend, like we've done countless times on many vehicles. I fail to see why the laying of RTV like that would reflect badly on either of us; we've replaced the rear main seal on both our TB's in the same manner. It is just an extra precautionary method to prevent any future leaks, should that occur. It's something I've learned from him that he's done before without any issues.

And just to add, that first picture of the mildy layed RTV was on my truck, the 2nd photo was from his truck.
 

Jeffrey gray

Member
Sep 9, 2017
19
Jamestown, ny
Like I said, I’m not dissing your repair or the outcome it created. I just don’t want to confuse people on the proper placement of RTV. Bad placement of RTV can cause major problems if placed carelessly(trust me on this one......oil galleys plugged and major engine tear required with improperly placed RTV. If it works for you that’s fine but as a professional, I don’t recommend it. It was a great write up and I’m not trying to take anything away from you or bust your balls

Any and all information is good information. Please don’t take my comments personal
 
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seanpooh

Member
Jan 24, 2012
461
The two "nipples/alignment guides" are just dowel pins which is a more common term.

Also, on my personal truck, not putting the top two bolts help aid in removing the trans faster. I don't do it on customer cars though, I have standards.

I rebuilt my trans a month ago with the help of my team leader (rear pinion planetary and sun gear cracked in half) and then 2 weeks later my flex plate cracked. Getting a trans in and out under 1.5 hours without them on top helped.
 

Badkitty795

Member
Jun 2, 2022
9
Louisiana
I know this is an older post but wanted to give props to the op for this write up. It was very helpful! New transmission is in and working great!

I did create a printable word and pdf document to refer to while working and am posting it here in case anyone would like it. I put all the pics back with their correct descriptions and adjusted some of the lighting on the pics to make the detail stand out.

All credit guess to op. I made this doc for my personal use, but thought some may find it handy.

If posting violates any rules, I will gladly delete this.
 

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jmonica

Member
Apr 2, 2013
384
Hamburg, NJ
I know this is an older post but wanted to give props to the op for this write up. It was very helpful! New transmission is in and working great!

I did create a printable word and pdf document to refer to while working and am posting it here in case anyone would like it. I put all the pics back with their correct descriptions and adjusted some of the lighting on the pics to make the detail stand out.

All credit guess to op. I made this doc for my personal use, but thought some may find it handy.

If posting violates any rules, I will gladly delete this.
Well done and mighty kind of you to take time to add to this already great write up. You are a gentlemen Sir. Thank You
 

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