SOLVED! Impossible midgate switch problem

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#1 Still chasing parasitic battery draw. There is no IPC installed at this time. (sent it off for rebuild)

#2 Midgate is pulling 480ma. If I remove fuse #27 (15A midgate) battery draw drops to .005 after a few minutes.

#3 When I connect the battery, the midgate latches partially unlock. The gate will move a bit but not fold down. I can push on it and it relocks.

#4 If I actually roll the mid window down and push the button, it doesn't do anything.

#5 If I unplug the "window is down" switch the draws stop and the latches lock. I plug it back in and the latches go back to a holding partially unlocked.

#5 Now it gets weird. I checked the switch and it is normally open. When I push on it it closes. Apparently working as intended.

#6 I short the connector that goes to that switch and nothing happens.

#7 So connecting a plug to an open switch is activating the latches and shorting the same plug has no effect. /dogheadtilt

Could the missing IPC/DIC be causing this?

 

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I feaking found it!

When I replaced the midgate regulator I had to JB weld the (window position) switch back on. Pretty much SOP for this vehicle.

I ground the mounting point on the switch flat so it would sit properly and adhere solidly with the JB weld. I also flattened the tab on the regulator and ground off the paint so the JB weld had bare metal to stick to.

While trouble shooting I got frustrated when trying to clip my leads onto the pins inside the plug on the switch because they are facing down and there's no room to actually see what your doing and I yanked the switch off.

That's when I saw the tiny spot I ground a little too far exposing the end of one of the pins so that it shorted to the metal bracket when I glued it back on.



Note: After realizing that none of the JB weld stuck to the plastic switch I decided that even though it took a lot of force to remove it that eventually it would come back off on it's own.

So I trimmed about 2mm off the bottom of the mounting tab on the window regulator and then wrapped it with a few layers of electrical tape so the switch couldn't short to ground anymore. Then I drilled a hole through the switch near the top (there's only one location this can be done, I didn't take a pic) and wrapped a zip tie through the hole in the top and around bottom and crisscrossed them across the mounting tab. Like so.... It's on there pretty solid and the midgate is working as intended now.