heater hose replacement
- Thread starter Daniel417
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
I think his problem is the clamps/brackets holding the hose to the block, not hose clamps. I think I remember them from my engine swap and it's just a matter of reaching back there and take them out with a wrench or ratchet. I think they're the two top bellhousing bolts and they're just a PITA to get out.
Mooseman
Moderator
I will try to get video in the morning it might be hard with my big phone in a tight space. Moose man you are correct that it is the top 2 bell housing bolts. I can barely get my stubby wrench on the top two 15 mm bolts after bending the tabs aside. I'm going to try to get them from underneath with 24" extension and a wobble socket. I will post a how to with part numbers and tools when I get it. And thanks for the tool referral mrrsm. I will have to get one.
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
That is the best way to approach those bolts, I also use a 1/2 pneumatic impact wrench.
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
I uh.....you can get those bolts out easily with the engine and trans in place. I have done it on more than one occasion, I've also removed these trans several times. It's really not bad at all.....at the very worst you can remove the transmission mount (10min) and sit the tail shaft on the cross member, this will give you about 4 more inches of access the the top 2 bolts.
I just had another thought, why are you removing the hard line to begin with? you should be able to get in there and cut the old bands and remove the hoses without removing the entire assembly (hard pipe).
I will mention that in the above scenario you would also have to remove the fan/shroud assembly, as well as the down pipe of the exhaust. The exhaust in these trucks do not have a flexible section of pipe and raising and lower the engine even a few inches will likely crack the cheap exhaust manifold.
I just had another thought, why are you removing the hard line to begin with? you should be able to get in there and cut the old bands and remove the hoses without removing the entire assembly (hard pipe).
I will mention that in the above scenario you would also have to remove the fan/shroud assembly, as well as the down pipe of the exhaust. The exhaust in these trucks do not have a flexible section of pipe and raising and lower the engine even a few inches will likely crack the cheap exhaust manifold.
I replaced the entire hose assembly because it was cheaper than replacing the hoses and connection. I was able to get the top transmission bolts out with my stubby wrench. Then I took intake manifold off. I should have done that to begin with. Took the old one out. Put the new one in. Reassembled and filled up coolant.
Mrrsm is that the gm recommended method? That seems alot more difficult than getting it from the top. 2 hours for the intake method.
Mrrsm is that the gm recommended method? That seems alot more difficult than getting it from the top. 2 hours for the intake method.
Last edited:
BlazingTrails
Member
- Apr 27, 2014
- 19,409
Just an update. I originally replaced the shorter hose with an after market setup. I used a 90 quick coupler and a piece of molded hose almost identical to orginal. I was having a problem with my heater acting restricted and barely blowing. Well I upgraded from that to an oem acdelco 2007 hose. After hooking up new hose my heater is getting it. I mean blowing real hot. My hypothesis is original hose restricted to much and caused heater core to not get to operating temp. Ac sensed low heater core temp and kept the door 95% closed in order to get heater core to temp. I'm happy to have heat.
Very interesting solution... It makes me wonder why GM did not also place the attachment access areas for both the Inlet and the Outlet to the Heater Core on the passenger side close enough to be able to plug in identical connectors....one from and Garden Hose on the Outlet side and the other attached to the Inlet side; lengthy enough to submerged inside a 5 Gallon Orange Bucket from Home Depot and allow for an isolated way to Reverse Flush just the heater portion of the entire system. THAT would have been a very handy arrangement.
Nature hates ANYTHING that makes a cramped, fluid slowing 90 degree turn. For example, She had to make special venous and arterial piping arrangements inside the necks of Barn Owls and their brethren so that when the rotate their heads a full 270 Degrees... they don't collapse the blood vessels leading from their hearts to their brains making them pass out from the twisting tourniquet on those blood vessels caused by such a huge range of motion, side to side.
Nature hates ANYTHING that makes a cramped, fluid slowing 90 degree turn. For example, She had to make special venous and arterial piping arrangements inside the necks of Barn Owls and their brethren so that when the rotate their heads a full 270 Degrees... they don't collapse the blood vessels leading from their hearts to their brains making them pass out from the twisting tourniquet on those blood vessels caused by such a huge range of motion, side to side.
Not only that... Dude... You just saved me from such a HUGE and expensive headache, Man. I have a performance engine build under way for a 1994 Chevrolet Camaro 3.4L L-32 Engine that had a serious a problem in the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) with a totally FUBARed Heater Hose Connection. You see, I thought that the connection portion was actually an OEM portion of the LIM... but since the one you showed me is IDENTICAL to the one supporting the Y-Pipe coming in from the other line feeds to the engine, until you mentioned it here and I saw the image from looking it, I had NO IDEA that is was a separate, replaceable item...and this means I can use that $5.00 part to repair an impossible-to-find legacy LIM for the 1994 Camaro RS Engine. Dude!!!....Thanks man!!!
Am I missing something here?? I have an 04 SWB Envoy with 190K miles. I would like to replace the heater hoses. Don't see anyway to get to the two bolts holding the hose that goes behind the engine. Can't reach down from the top and don't see anything from underneath. Could I just run a long hose over the engine instead?
Mooseman
Moderator