Front Sway bar bushing gap

[Gerbil21]

I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the front sway bar bushing and if there is any gap from the bushing to the bar.

There is a pretty big gap "from what I would consider" on my front bushing the rear is a perfect tight no gap fit. The bushings that used to be there were 34mm the replacement moogs are the same size. And I still have a clunk in the front since these bushings aren't tight enough

So are these just bad bushings or what?

 

[Wooluf1952]

The hole in the bushing should be the same size as the diameter of the sway bar. It should be a tight fit. Have you measured the sway bar.

 

[kickass audio]

My front bushings had it so the outside edge where it has like a lip around where the clamp goes were flared out quite a bit. The middle part where the clamp holds it down was nice and tight and round so it didn't need to be replaced on mine but I did it anyway since I was already at it. See if it wiggles when you grab it and try to move it around.

 

[Daniel644]

I was wondering if anyone has a picture of the front sway bar bushing and if there is any gap from the bushing to the bar.

There is a pretty big gap "from what I would consider" on my front bushing the rear is a perfect tight no gap fit. The bushings that used to be there were 34mm the replacement moogs are the same size. And I still have a clunk in the front since these bushings aren't tight enough

So are these just bad bushings or what?

34mm, did things change that much as the years moved on? mine where 44mm (1.72") on my 03 4.2, I initially thought I had the 1.8" bar based on my attempt to measure it, so I ordered and installed a set of those and had a gap like you talk about, but then I got a closer look at the stock bushings and noticed they actually had a 44mm formed into the rubber so I ordered the 1.72" Moogs and that really tightened the front end up about the level of difference that came from replacing the sway bay END LINKS which is typically where the clunking comes from, have you checked those out?

So I just looked and it looks like in 05 they dropped to a 34 and 36 front bar, so I would say check and make sure the part number matches for the 34 (1.34") bar and not the 36 (1.42") bar. Wonder why they shrunk the bar so much?

 

[Gerbil21]

The hole in the bushing should be the same size as the diameter of the sway bar. It should be a tight fit. Have you measured the sway bar.

Yea, I wrapped a paper around cut it and divided by pie. I got 1.42 iirc so I was obviously off, this was the 36mm bushing. I'll take a pic of the 34mm bushing on it today

My front bushings had it so the outside edge where it has like a lip around where the clamp goes were flared out quite a bit. The middle part where the clamp holds it down was nice and tight and round so it didn't need to be replaced on mine but I did it anyway since I was already at it. See if it wiggles when you grab it and try to move it around.

I never checked if the bushings can move or not but I imagine they will, I'll check today and get a pic of the bushings

34mm, did things change that much as the years moved on? mine where 44mm (1.72") on my 03 4.2, I initially thought I had the 1.8" bar based on my attempt to measure it, so I ordered and installed a set of those and had a gap like you talk about, but then I got a closer look at the stock bushings and noticed they actually had a 44mm formed into the rubber so I ordered the 1.72" Moogs and that really tightened the front end up about the level of difference that came from replacing the sway bay END LINKS which is typically where the clunking comes from, have you checked those out?

So I just looked and it looks like in 05 they dropped to a 34 and 36 front bar, so I would say check and make sure the part number matches for the 34 (1.34") bar and not the 36 (1.42") bar. Wonder why they shrunk the bar so much?

I have already replaced both front sway bar links with moogs and the bar doesn't move, before I was able to push the bar and make it clunk, now i only get the clunk when driving

 

[Gerbil21]

Passenger side






No gap on the other side


Driver side


Once again no gap on the other side

 

[Daniel644]

it's hard to see through all that grease but so what your saying you did was you first installed 36mm and realized they where to big so you've swapped to 34mm and still getting a clunk? there is a some deformation on the outside of the bushings because of the curve in the bar, at least thats how mine was, as long as the bushing clamped down tight it should be good, 34 and 36 are the only sizes listed for your year on rockauto. double check your Moog endlinks, I had the bolt on one of the rears of my moogs back off a little and started clunking like a bad endlink, you got to really torque them down.

 

[Gerbil21]

it's hard to see through all that grease but so what your saying you did was you first installed 36mm and realized they where to big so you've swapped to 34mm and still getting a clunk? there is a some deformation on the outside of the bushings because of the curve in the bar, at least thats how mine was, as long as the bushing clamped down tight it should be good, 34 and 36 are the only sizes listed for your year on rockauto. double check your Moog endlinks, I had the bolt on one of the rears of my moogs back off a little and started clunking like a bad endlink, you got to really torque them down.

Yes, also I did actually torque them down but since I have the car up I'll check them again.

Also here's a pic if the passenger side lifted up



Driver Side

 

[Gerbil21]

Passenger side


Driver side

 

[Mooseman]

Those look like the Raybestos blue bushings. I had the same problem a couple of years after I used the same ones on my EXT, which has the large bar. I think their rubber is just too soft. I'd just replace them with regular black rubber like Moogs.

 

[BlazingTrails]

I thought those blue bushings were urethane? I've got several red ones under my truck, they are supposed to be urethane as well.

 

[Gerbil21]

Those look like the Raybestos blue bushings. I had the same problem a couple of years after I used the same ones on my EXT, which has the large bar. I think their rubber is just too soft. I'd just replace them with regular black rubber like Moogs.

They are moogs, also it never says it anywhere but as far as I know they are poly bushings. And yes the rubber feels softer and was easier to open then the rear moogs I got.

 

[Black_tb]

Sorry for piggy back off but I think mine are the originals and thinking they really should be swapped out

 

[Gerbil21]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433939389.413212.jpg

Sorry for piggy back off but I think mine are the originals and thinking they really should be swapped out

That's how my originals looked and with the bad links I was able to rock the bar back and fourth making it clunk.

 

[Black_tb]

i do have the better part of 110,000 miles on her

whats the sure fire way to measure this thing wrap a string around it ?

 

[Daniel644]

i do have the better part of 110,000 miles on her

whats the sure fire way to measure this thing wrap a string around it ?

best way is to use a caliper to measure it if you have one.

 

[Gerbil21]

Yea that would of been helpful, either way I just ordered new acdelco bushings, the blue ones, they should be in on friday

 

[SnowBlazer]

I think mine are bad as well. Is it beneficiary to replace the whole links or just the bushings?

 

[Gerbil21]

I think mine are bad as well. Is it beneficiary to replace the whole links or just the bushings?

Both should be replaced but it depends on how bad the links are. But it would probably be easier to do it all in one shot

 

[SnowBlazer]

Do the new links not come with bushings?

 

[Mounce]

Do the new links not come with bushings?

Completely different parts of the system. They are indeed a separate item.

 

[Mooseman]

BTW, just for reference, I'm pretty sure that the ACDelco bushings are made by Raybestos. I had ordered some Raybestos front (blue) and and rear (black) and when I replaced the rear ones, they were exactly the same as the originals, markings and all. And when my blue ones went bad again, all I did was take it off, cut a piece off at the slit, added a few washers between the bushing and the frame, bolted it back up and it was tight again. Although I haven't checked lately, I think they're still tight.

 

[Gerbil21]

BTW, just for reference, I'm pretty sure that the ACDelco bushings are made by Raybestos. I had ordered some Raybestos front (blue) and and rear (black) and when I replaced the rear ones, they were exactly the same as the originals, markings and all. And when my blue ones went bad again, all I did was take it off, cut a piece off at the slit, added a few washers between the bushing and the frame, bolted it back up and it was tight again. Although I haven't checked lately, I think they're still tight.

Im shure they are but whatever maybe they'll work. Also that's what I was thinking of doing don't know bout the washer though Any pics?

 

[Sparky]

I'm still running original bushings on mine... They don't make any noise I'm aware of. Just those darn end links, again.

 

[Mooseman]

Im shure they are but whatever maybe they'll work. Also that's what I was thinking of doing don't know bout the washer though Any pics?

Sorry, no. Next time I do it, I'll post up a how to as a redneck fix for old bushings.

 

[Black_tb]

so i looked them up at AA and they are only like 8 dollars and some change for either size so im thinking about getting them both and taking back the ones that don't fit lol

 

[Gerbil21]

so i looked them up at AA and they are only like 8 dollars and some change for either size so im thinking about getting them both and taking back the ones that don't fit lol

If you do put up a pic of how they look installed

 

[Gerbil21]

New acdelco's installed, a good bit less gap

 

[paul2005tb]

I found my vehicle ride was significantly improved without the sway bar links installed. More independent suspension makes for a nicer ride onver potholes. The only advantage I can see in the swaybar is in sharp turns at speed, but who in their right mind does that ?

Question: Does anyone out there ride with out the sway bar links ?

 

[Sparky]

Front or rear?
I've run without the rears before, not a huge difference unless the back end is loaded down and going around turns. Front is more of a difference in general. My rear links are shot (again) and I'm tempted to just disconnect them to stop the annoying rattle.

As to who takes turns at speed, well.... I've taken my lifted TB around a cloverleaf faster than a rice boy who was kissing my bumper prior to that I think it got him mad as he did a flyby soon after

 

[paul2005tb]

Maybe I will try disconnecting the rear links too..

I was thinking of the fronts. I had the front links off for inspection and drove a week without them and it was a far better ride. At least for the kind of riding I do.

 

[SnowBlazer]

Maybe I will try disconnecting the rear links too..

I was thinking of the fronts. I had the front links off for inspection and drove a week without them and it was a far better ride. At least for the kind of riding I do.

So are you not going to have any end links on your ride? I'm assuming you only drive street terrain.

 

[paul2005tb]

So are you not going to have any end links on your ride? I'm assuming you only drive street terrain.

Hmm.. I think I understand what you are saying.. Ok, in order for me to keep this comfy swaybarless ride maybe I could replace my sway bar links with a slightly longer piece of kevlar or paracord rope. That would keep my lower control arms from ever droping too far but would eliminate the link between the two sides of the suspension with every single bump.

 

[SnowBlazer]

By "ride" I meant your Trailblazer....but nonetheless, you answered my question. I'm tempted to take mine off for the time being because it sounds like the whole damn car is falling apart when really it's just the end links.

 

[paul2005tb]

The sway bar is a great feature if turns at relatively high speed is your thing . If you face allot of potholes and less than perfect surfaces then it subtracts from the suspension.

 

[Mounce]

What is your definition of high speeds? Because at 25-30 I experience body roll with sway bars and links in place, can't imagine what it'd be like without them. So at a higher speed like 50 in a decent turn you feel the roll but appreciate the presence of the sway bars which keep stable.

I guess in a city setting you'd never experience sharp turns besides when turning from one road to the next or into a parking spot and then it would be at very low speeds so you might notice no roll.

 

[SnowBlazer]

With shot sway bars, I still whip corners at 20-25 with ease. That might explain my torn cv boot

 

[Mounce]

Likely age that got your boot. Turning won't hurt them.

 

[Daniel644]

Maybe I will try disconnecting the rear links too..

I was thinking of the fronts. I had the front links off for inspection and drove a week without them and it was a far better ride. At least for the kind of riding I do.

maybe try driving something else to compare it to. taking some corners in my daily commute at even close to posted speed limits gives a very noticeable body roll even with good endlinks and proper sized good sway bar bushings, but maybe I'm just more prone to notice the roll after driving a firebird that has upgraded sway bar sizes (WS6/SS bars on a V6 with all poly bushings) and a 1.25" drop via BMR springs and Bilstein shocks that takes corners at 60 that im afraid to take the TB thru at 35, heck it was half my reason for doing the Belltech 2/3 drop on the truck (in the process of replacing the control arms), so as to lower the center of gravity and reduce body roll.

 

[paul2005tb]

What is your definition of high speeds? Because at 25-30 I experience body roll with sway bars and links in place, can't imagine what it'd be like without them. So at a higher speed like 50 in a decent turn you feel the roll but appreciate the presence of the sway bars which keep stable.

I guess in a city setting you'd never experience sharp turns besides when turning from one road to the next or into a parking spot and then it would be at very low speeds so you might notice no roll.

To the extent that roll is a safety issue I need sway bars... But I don't think I ever take curves that fast. Of course it is the rare emergency odd road event that causes one to turn fast that could end up being my demise.